correct me if I am wrong here.

the ipr should be at wide open position until start, and then it will close and bigin regulating the oil pressure coming from the hpop. hence 500 psi @ crank, and spike to 2200-2500 at start, then resume idle @ 500-700.

I bring this thought up due to the fact that unless the ipr is closed nearly all the way at crank, it should not affect the ability to start.

Also I have heard that when your hpop fails, sometimes it take out your idm, or vice versa. Is there any simple way to check the idm without a scanner?, short of replacing or swapping? but then again, I could swap it from my pos psd...

 

Idk of any simple ways to test and IDM besides hooking up to a scanner to scan for codes...

 

this may not be the right way. but pull the VC's and start it. just at a idle. then one by one disconnect each injector. the idle should change if all is good...

 

cleaned the ipr, and tired another pressure test, got nothing good, so I think I will call in the morning and get a new hpop on the way. If that doesn't work, I will probably just swap out idm's and see what that gets me... and then, maybe pcm? I don't really want to keep using my other stroke for a parts truck, but I guess its cheaper than diagnosis via parts store.

 

Search for this Western (brand name) snow plows #56131 I installed this on mine just as good as stancor lot better price I also went on db electric site and bought a starter made for the newer powerstrokes cant remember exactly which years just perform a search but db electric has best prices I think it was around 155 . Now my truck still has problems but cold starts arent one of them.

 

155 for a relay? i think the stancor is about 50 on guzzles website...

 

i'd check the under valve cover harness. my 95 did the exact same thing. one morning it started and as i was doing my pre trip the dam thing starting running horrilbe at idle but then cleared up. ran it 500 mile or so that day with zero issues, next morning, crank and crank but wouldn't start and then when it did start it would be crazy lazy and smoking like crazy. long story short, the under valve cover gasket was all messed up and the injecors and glow plug wires were shorting out big time! good luck...

 

turns out, the fuel heater kept blowing the fuse that powers the pcm relay... spent all that on parts for nothing. At least I shouldn't ever need to buy another hpop or lpop as long as the truck should live.

 

Did you have a WTS light?