Thanks but how do i fix that?

 

Fix what?

You dont know what it is yet...

If it smells like fuel its injector or compression related. If it smells like coolant then it could be many things.

Time to get it scanned.

 

i found the best way to find these was with a cylinder contribution test with a scanner. and my recommendation, if it comes up with more than one bad injector, you should do the whole set of 8. yes its expensive but trust me you wanna nip this in the *** ASAP.
if you bring it to someone to have it checked out rather than doing it yourself, have them check out the valve cover harness's and all the wiring. i've found wiring issues in these wont necessarily throw codes, causes headaches haha.

 

I miss my OBS 7.3, even with new injectors it would puff white until it was warm...but holy s**t that truck would haul a** when at temp!

 

By the way a full set of new injectors can run about $2200 to $2500 big ones
Re-man's are cheaper but will not last you as long, most dont even get re-manned, they're tested and if they test good they just get sent out. so i dont have much faith in that.

 

If you're gonna get re-mans, get bigger sticks, that will at least tell ya they had to tear into them to mod them. And if it's a respectable company, they'll stand behind their product.

 

Ok and will a stuck injector cause the reading to say the injector is faulty? I havent gotten it scanned yet but plannin on it when i get time

 

No it will not. To have an injector code it really has to be electrical, you'll have and injector circuit open or circuit closed code if it is electrical, but those throw check engine lights. a stuck nozzle or something like that isnt detectable, probably in a worst case senario it would throw a fuel metering code because of excess fuel going through the metering valve.

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trust me, my crew cab has 290k on it now, its been through one set of injectors already and i just had to replace 2 recently because of this exact problem, i had a crack in one solenoid pack on top of one injector, which messed that up because of oil entering the solenoid, and the second injector nozzle was stuck open causing your problem that your having now.
If i had the money, i would've gotten the whole set replaced with stage 1's. but i dont have 3 grand haha

 

Wow this thing has really been a pain! im kinda thinkin it also might be the feul pump? Because i went out to start it the other day to see what the exhaust smelt like and i cranked it and no start. Let the glow plugs cycle and no start did this several times until the battery died. Went to jump it and the starter wasnt working right. It was a bad connection. I Tested the starter earlier today and now i need to clean it up and install it. So i have yet to smell the exhaust! But prior it had been takin a little longer now that i think about it!

 

yea deffinetly a sign you have an nozzle stuck open, air is getting back through the system, meaning you have to purge all the air out before it'll start, that was one of my symptoms too. if you think its your pump, you can check the pressure on the side of the regulator with a guage, looks like a bicycle tire valve on the side of the fuel filter housing, should see somewhere between 30-50psi of pressure. do you know if you have a diaphram pump in the valley of the motor or the electric pump on the frame rail? if you have the pump on the motor it needs to be running or cranking in order to check.