I had similar conditions and checked everything we could think of to check including everything mentioned in this thread and many more. A small shot of ether and it fired. A second shot and it fired and ran. It didn't run perfect, but at least we could perform other tests requiring a running engine. A shot of ether applied to a CRANKING engine isn't going to bend a rod -- just don't get stupid with it... Try it or don't, Just trying to help.

As I eluded to earlier and have harped on in other threads, Do you have good fresh engine oil with the proper anti-foaming agent? This turned out to be 90% of my problem. My synthetic (very extended drain interval) Amsoil was depleted of said agent. It showed above the minimum oil pressure to fire, but wouldn't anyway. Firing on ether probably spun it faster enough to create higher oil pressure.

 

Okay. I got the scanner on it. I am not sure what it would call the HPO? It has two reading on it that I think might be it; Injector Control Pressure Abso and Injector Control Pressure. Could one of these be it or are they for something else? They both stay at 0 when cranking.

The IPR Duty Cycle is at 15% with the key on and jumps to 55% when cranking. Is this good?

Also when I pulled the codes of from trying different things and cranking on it the past couple days it had code P1280 which says ICP circuit out of range low. What could this mean?

I see what your saying with the ether. I know it could not be my oil because I don't have over 5k on it and it's regular not synthetic. And the way it just died I would think my oil could be the problem. Everyone I've talked to says the truck starts running real rough when your oil is getting too bad.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

New sensor, good oil with an api rating of cf-4/sh or cg-4/sh or higher, good ipr valve (assumed good), must be the pump. I suppose the ipr valve could be shot. I will defer to CSIPSD. If it is the pump, this would be an excellent opportunity to upgrade. I believe a p1280 can mean the sensor is reading no (or low) oil pressure.

The two icp's reading zero are probably the same thing, one reading in voltage and the other in psi. this would be the 450psi minimum mentioned. Not sure if the ipr duty cycle tells you if the valve is good or not.

 

I would replace the IPR... Sometimes even when cleaned they are just junk.

Ford makes a nice block off kit that allows you to test without buying a new IPR, but it costs more then a new IPR.

Throw a new IPR in there and you should be good to go.

 

Okay I have a guy that's going to let me test my IPR in his truck to see for sure if it is bad. Ford wants 260 for a new one so I want to make sure it's bad before I just throw the money out there and replace another good part. I also happen to break my orifice going between my filter housing and my FPR so I guess I'll be getting one of those kits and putting a new one in.

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I have another question for you guys. I didn't get to test my IPR today, hopefully tomorrow... But with my IPR out my dad and I decided to turn the engine over to see if any oil comes out of the hole where the IPR goes into the HPOP. Is this a bad sign or is that perfectly normal? I have no idea so any help would be great. Thanks!

 

it should have oil coming out of it... Do not do it much as it will pump more air into the HPO system...

 

Alright, I got my IPR in a friends truck, works just fine. So I put it back in my truck, buttoned everything up, poured oil in the HPOP reservoir got it nice and full. Crank the truck over, cranks for quite a while then the truck starts. Runs for about 5 maybe 10 seconds at the most and dies. I got back to my HPOP reservoir it is now empty. So apparently the HPOP is just not getting engine oil. I am afraid this means I lost my main oil pump. Would this be true? The 'idiot' oil light never moved during cranking and when the truck started.

 

Ok, sorry I missed asking you a few questions last night:

Are you saying you had no engine oil pressure when it started?
I heard it start for you. It ran rough while it ran, but I would say that is from having air in the fuel system from having everything apart. . . .

I wish I knew more about these engines. If you get air in the fuel filter / FPR, will it work it out of the system by cranking / running the engine?

Doesn't the engine oil pump supply oil to the reservoir for the HPOP? What keeps this reservoir full or controls how much oil is in there? Is there a regulator or check valve or does this mean the main oil pump failed? (I don't think I have ever heard of this happening to a healthy engine. I know for a fact that he hasn't rev'ed this engine while it was cold. When it failed it was warmed up and he was taking off. . . Maybe you should tell us how hard you were taking off . . . How high of RPMs were you shifting at? If you were at cruising speed when it died, how long had you been in high gear?)

Since it started with the reservoir full and ran for a little bit, I think we can assume that the fuel system and HPOP are functioning correctly. I just know you don't want to pull the oil pan off checking the oil pump to find out there is a line or regulator or check valve that went bad. Hopefully the problem is external to the engine.

The only other things I can think to add are:
When it cranks it seems to turn very fast. Recently we replaced the glow plug system and cleaned all the battery cable connections. I am impressed with how fast the starter turns this engine over. And at just over 300,k I think this engine is pretty sound also.
I did have him spin the engine when we towed it back (from where it was: "Found On the Road Dead" . . . I just had to ). I wanted him to spin the engine to aid with turning and braking as well as seeing if it would throw the same codes again. He didn't spin it that much and I wouldn't think that this could have hurt anything or caused the HPOP reservoir to be empty.

Hopefully this adds enough info to help diagnosis this one. If not, ask away and we'll find out the answers. It would be nice to have this one running again. . .

 

Sounds like you lost the LPOP...

Unplug the IPR again and then remove one of the plugs from the HPO res... Have someone crank and see if you get oil out of the hole... If not, you have lost the LPOP...

 

Okay, I know that doesn't work because it's not filling the reservoir at all. Is there anything else that could've gone bad? And is there any other way to test and make sure the the LPOP went bad? I want to make very sure before I go pulling the engine to change a good oil pump...