I really do not expect to back out and we are working out the details. (Another PM sent to you.) Since joebob and I live fairly close to each other, that large scale natural disaster that would prevent from happening would probably wipe us both out... S0 if that did happen, it wouldn't matter then, right? LOL

IMHO- Your next mods are building blocks and should be done in a logical order. First should be a downpipe. Without that, the turbine exhaust has nowhere to go, so the turbine is limited until that is done. Then a turbine housing, which would shift the power band to a lower RPM... Thus limiting the top end, since that band shifted down. My experience is that 1.0 A/R for street and towing is a good thing. .84 A/R would be street and pretty of power for stop light to stop light, but you really shift the power band down enough that most would notice as being too restrictive for towing.

Borg/Warner just finished a production run on turbine housings, the TP-38 1.0 A/R Housing was on national back-order. That should trickle down as they play catchup on those backorders. I would wait for one of those, as they are over half the price of the Banks branded housing, and they are the same animal. Some shops still may have them in stock... or may have gotten their backorder fulfilled by now.

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I really like the WW2 design... But it really is only to going to add more of a turbo impeller sound with a few extra pounds of boost... that you wouldn't notice much more until your did those exhaust mod's then got a good set of tunes... With as high as I went with mod'ng a TP-38 (as much as physically possible), before stepping up to porting it out to go with a 66mm WW2, I would say with all you have, are planning, and on stock tunes, my best was 14.x psi...

That next step after opening up the exhaust is adding more fuel to the fire (with at least tunes to do that), so that you can spin the turbine faster.... that ever see-saw effect to chase down more power.