hey guys, I have a 97 7.3 with the stock running gear and brakes.


For the past several months, my emergency brake and abs brake light have been on...

well i can finally afford to fix it, so i decided to redo the brakes. Although the lights have been on they have always preformed as they should.

Last week, I did new calipers, pads up front, and rotors, and the rear i did maybe 2 months ago. I also replaced the abs sensor, and the master cylinder. Ford has also done the recall work on the cruise control wiring/switch.

But the Brake lights are still on! Also, with the the old and new mater cylinder if i hold the brake pedal down it will slowly, very slowly but surely, bleed down to the floor?

I can not figure out why the brake will slowly work down to the floor, or what is making these lights come on, any help would be greatly appreciated.

I dont know if it is relevent, but my cruise control does not work, I have power all the way to the fuse box, so i think my truck is not allowing the cruise control to work because of the brake issue, would a brake position switch be causing my problems?

 

no ideas anybody?

 

Abs and Brake light came on on mine because the reservoir was getting low due to a pesky rust hole in the line. I was losing just enough fluid for the light to come on every few weeks. My pedal never got squishy or soft though. Sounds like you need to use a power bleeder to make sure all the air is out.
Your sensor on the reservoir may have gone bad too if the fluid level is up and it still shows a light on the dash.

There should be no reason for you to lose your pedal if you have the system sealed up other than an air bubble or a leak somewhere

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also that light may be preventing you from using cruise.

 

The brake light on the dash kicks out your cruise.....as long as brake light comes on in dash panel your cruise will not work. Cruise thinks that you are pushing break pedal and wont engage

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thats what i figured, and ive monitored the fluid \, very closely... im not loosing any... that i can tell, power bleeding is a good idea...

 

On my old truck (a '93), the ABS light would come on because the ABS actuator was seized up. I took it apart and cleaned it out and it worked good after that (well, as good as its design would allow) and the ABS light went out. If you have to push the aluminum piston out, you need to use something narrow like a drift. The part of the piston you can see inside the actuator body is only about 1/4".