The PCM shuts off at like 9V, so if your batteries are weak it wont even try to start, make sure the batteries are at a full charge and then try.

I don't think it's even possible to hook up the FICM wrong.

 

Haha with me anything is possible . I am going to run home with my charger and charge the batteries! I will give it a shot again tonight. The batteries are only a 4months old but have been sitting for 3. They turned the truck over for a total of about 5 minutes injectors buzzed, fuel pump ran, I assume that the glow plugs are heating and the problem is in the hpop or the ficm is not energized correctly. I believe I got the stands and dummy plugs in there correct position. Dummy plugs are towards the front of the engine on both sides correct.

 

Sounds right.

Any way to monitor ICP? If you just did all the high pressure oil work, it's probably just not building pressure yet. Is the low pressure oil gauge on the dash coming up while you're cranking yet?

I need to go back through this whole thread again and refresh my memory. Was the HPOP replaced?

 

I do have a gauge in the truck I need to get wired in for the icp sensor. They sent the wrong wire with it but it will work. I replaced the icp and the ipr on this as well as the stands and dummy plugs. I was not watching the low oil pressure. By the time I thought about it the batteries died. I will be charging them tonight.

 

It takes like a full 5 or 6 seconds of solid cranking before I notice the low pressure oil gauge come up. My guess is it's just got air in the high pressure oil system, it make take a little while to get it going again. They say 3k RPM's for 3 full minutes to fully bleed it once it's running. That or just go drive it and give it some good WOT runs.

The gauge you mean an HPOP gauge?

 

Yeah it cranked for longer than that but it still could be air it might have cranked for maybe 2 minutes off and on before I noticed the voltage falling off. I cranked for maybe 30 seconds at a shot. it didn't even pretend to run ! Just turned over and turned over good.

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Oh yes iss pro hpop gauge. Need to hook it up yet. I will splice those wires in tonight after work

 

I'd be real interested to see what the HPOP gauge reads...

 

Haha finally got time to work on the truck... Charged the batteries on seperate trickle chargers for the week and she started right up. Still got some air in hpop system but other than that no missing. Working on electric for gauges and the hole for the tweeter on the pod side. Bad exhaust leak on the passenger side y pipe where the header and ypipe meet. Got a donut in case I can't fix it right. Will be sending the info to innovative on monday for the sct tunes going to roll with the xtreme tune, the heavy tow with the turbo break, and the light tow. After talking to you and then doing some research innovative sounds like the best place to roll with. I think on the next truck I build I will go with the ceramic coating on intake manifold, headers, and ypipe. Then wrap them to see if there is any difference from this. Exhaust is deffinatly cooler to the touch as well as under hood temps. When I get the gauges on I will let you know the temps I am pushing. Though that will change with the tunes. Will be neat to see the difference stock to tuned.
Also notced a very reduced sound under the hood? With the exhaust leak I thought it would be louder but it not. That is very nice.

The bolts for the ypipe are as tight as I can get them now so I will have to attack this with a clear mond in the morning. I am thinking of loosening both the up pipe clamp to the turbo and removing the rear turbo to pedestal bolt and loosening the other to to get some play in it to properly tighten the ypipe. Any other suggestions?

 

I don't have it tuned yet but this morning got a little white smoke and a bit of hesitation out of the truck. White smoke from exhaust. Every once in a while it'll spit a little antifreeze though I looked today and it seems to come from a hose. I will fix that and see if that is why it's blowin white smoke. The antifreeze is bouncing right into the air filter.

 

Smell the white smoke, see if it smells like fuel or coolant. You should be able to tell.

Where exactly is it leaking? The y-pipe doesn't connect directly to the exhaust manifolds, so I'm kind of confused. Exhaust manifolds off the head, to the up-pipes, to the y-pipe, to the turbo, which part is leaking? Ideally, to get everything seated, loosen the up-pipes at the exhaust manifold, loosen the y-pipe to turbo, and loosen the turbo mount bolts. Tighten the y-pipe to the turbo FIRST. Then tighten the up-pipe to the exhaust manifold, THEN tighten the turbo mount bolts. You can not tighten the y-pipe to the turbo last, it will not seal. No matter how hard you tighten the clamp there it will not pull the turbo to it.