So you want to put a program on that will effectively de-tune the stock programming? I wouldn't do that at all. I'd be looking at a small power improvement myself, just to help with spool up. That's your call. If you want reliable, just keep the thing stock. Boost doesn't really stretch the headbolts, timing is the real killer. It jacks cylinder pressures way up. Some guys have no issues running race tunes daily on stock bolts, others can't keep them together stock. Just do all the things you were going to do and skip the studs for now. If it blows later down the road you can put them in then, not like you're saving a ton right now by doing them. With stock tuning you shouldn't really have any issues. Keep that oil cooler clean with a coolant filter, and stay on top of your maintenance. 6.0's are not keen on poor maintenance practices.

 

Thanks, I guess I won't worry about a program. My head bolts were replaced under the powertrain warranty about 30k miles ago. I wish I would have known then that I could have had them use ARP studs.

I put a coolant filter on about 3k miles ago, and I have a new oil bypass kit ready to install.

Since I have the Insight I was thinking of having the mechanic add an EGT probe and probably the deal that doesn't shut my truck off until EGT's are low enough. Is that probably money well spent?

 

Don't even sweat having the stock headbolts. I had a Ford garage put my ARP's in once, it was the shortest time headgaskets ever lasted in my truck. They will basically never do the job right. Their flatness spec for the heads sucks. If a head isn't "flat" they just order a new head, which is fine and dandy, except some of the stock new heads come in out of spec. Ford says they can't be decked, but we all do it. They have a minimum thickness spec for the heads. I've had headgaskets done several times at Ford, I now find myself doing all the work, which is good because everything seems to be working now.

The EGT probe is a good idea yes, it certainly will not hurt anything. Very easy to install too.

Turbo timer to shut the truck off? Yeah you could do that. Or just watch the EGT gauge and wait for it to get to ~350* before shutting it off. Either way will work. Just prevents the oil from burning up inside the turbo. When you shut the truck off, the turbo stops spinning and oil stops feeding, so if it was blazing hot, the oil just sits inside of it and cooks. Let it cool down to 350* or so and it should avoid that cooking.

 

I think I will do the timer. I am at multiple job sites every day, and setting there waiting for it to cool could potentially waste a lot of time, and there is more likelihood that I could inadvertently forget and turn it off before it's cool enough.

I am going to call Specialized Diesel in Spokane and get some firm costs and probably schedule to have the work done. I will ask them about the charge to clean the turbo too.

Here is the list of what I think should be done, please let me know if I'm missing anything:

New Oil Cooler
Either EGR delete or Bulletproof EGR cooler.
STC fitting
Stand Pipe
Dummy Plugs
EGR Valve, clean or replace, whatever makes the most sense? I assume if I do a delete I don't need it, but probably do with the BPD EGR cooler?
Updated fuel pressure regulator Spring.

Check boots/hoses.
Test Injectors.

Anything else they should do while they are in there?

I have been running a coolant filter for about 3k miles. I pulled the 1st one at 1k miles and it was very clean. Should I still do a coolant flush before having the work done, or should I be okay with the filter?

Thanks for the help.

 

I would just make sure you get the oil cooler rebuild kit, and not an entire new oil cooler, you'd just be wasting money there. Probably be a heck of a lot cheaper if you source the parts yourself and just give them the parts, that way you also know you're getting the new and updated stuff, we can give part numbers to you.

If you go with a bulletproof egr cooler, you will need the EGR valve yes, a cleaning could work, tough to say. Really depends how bad that one is. I would just go the delete route if you can, only go with the bulletproof unit if you have emissions testing where you are. Once the egr cooler is deleted, the valve can be there or not, doesn't matter since no air is flowing to it. Most guys just leave them in place (even though it's not functioning as an EGR valve anymore) because some of the calibrations from Ford were having issues with the fan not coming on due to the valve being unplugged. So to be safe most leave it there and leave it plugged in. Most likely it doesn't matter. Mine is out, and I have a block off plate where it was.


Not sure how they're going to "test" your injectors, not a lot of places are set up to properly test HEUI injectors... If the truck runs ok, just leave them alone, you're just going to be paying extra money for nothing.

I would personally have the batteries load tested, and then test your FICM, which anyone can do with a multi-meter. Those are the next common areas on the 6.0 Weak batteries make them run like crap, and often make the truck do funny things. The FICM is a common weak point, but there are fixes.

A coolant flush would not hurt at all, and once properly flushed you can also run whatever coolant you want. A lot of guys go to some sort of ELC (extended life) like the guys in the big rigs run. Rotella has an ELC, and a very popular one is the CAT ELC.

 

I should have mentioned that the batteries were recently replaced with the larger CCA units.

My FICM voltage is staying between 48.0 and 48.5 when the truck is running (according to my Insight).

My fuel mileage has gone down a bit lately, and there is some hesitation when going from being stopped. I thought it could be an injector or two, but maybe it is the turbo sticking?

When it was at the dealer last week for a new crank sensor they said it was intermittently showing failure of all 8 injectors. I am assuming that could be some type of electrical issue? The service writer said that all 8 injectors failing would be highly unlikely. Could this be a FICM issue, or possibly some type of controller?

 

Could be a FICM issue yes.

I HIGHLY doubt the crank position sensor even needed replacement. It's typically falsely thrown when the truck is cranked a lot and not starting.

You should test your FICM key on engine off, cranking, and running. Though it sounds like it's ok.

Turbo sticking would definitely hurt performance and cause poor mileage, along with a gummed up EGR valve causing similar symptoms.

 

Thanks Mdub. Can I use my Insight to test the FICM or do I need to do it with a multi-meter right at the FICM?

I think I am going to go with an EGR delete and have the turbo cleaned. I am going to have the EGT probe and Turbo Timer installed while they have my truck too. I am in and out of my truck at job sites all day and I'm thinking that will help alleviate any problem with the truck getting shut down when the EGT's are still too high.

 

That sounds like a good plan.

I prefer the multi-meter myself. Most of the "guage" pods can't read a bad FICM. They will read down to 40V, and not any lower. Though if it's reading 40V you know you have a problem.

FICM should be tested on a cold motor! Test in three settings: 1)key on, engine off 2)cranking 3)running. Sounds like you know your running voltage.

 

Thanks again Mdub. I have already run my truck this morning, so I will test it tomorrow morning when it's cold.

When running I've never seen it go below 47.

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Okay, here is the decision I have to make. . Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated.

I can have the oil cooler rebuilt, EGR deleted, updated fuel regulator kit, turbo cleaned, injector standpipes replaced and new dummy plugs, EGT probe installed, oil bypass system installed (I already have these parts), including all parts and labor, new fluids and filters, etc., that is $2,236.

OR, I can have all of that done in addition to: all new remanufactured OEM injectors with spool valve isues fixed, and if my head gaskets are still good new ARP studs installed one at a time. He says they have had excellent results installing the studs like that and none have come back. That total is $4,081. The difference primarily being only another few hundred in labor, plus $1,000 for a full set of reman injectors (with spool valve issues fixed), and $495 for the head studs, and some additional gaskets.

Which way should I go? While he is in there, maybe having the injectors all replaced isn't a bad idea? I know there are varying opinions on the head studs being replaced without the heads being removed. My head bolts were replaced under the powertrain warranty about 30k miles ago, and I am confident my head gaskets are still good. Two well respected shops that I know of in our area do the ARP stud replacement one at a time with the heads on and say they have had zero problems.

Would the extra $1,800 seem cheap down the road if I had to have head bolts replaced or injectors replaced since they will already be in the motor anyway. Their estimate for doing the more extensive work includes lifting the cab off the truck.

I think I am leaning towards spending the extra money on the full treatment, but would appreciate any thoughts or advice.