I own a 05 6.0 that I purchased new. It has 107k miles on it. The EOT/ECT delta's are to the point that I need to do a new oil cooler and an EGR delete and have the other common items like stand pipes, dummy plugs, etc. addressed while the mechanic is in there. My head gaskets are currently good and I can have the shop put in ARP studs while they are in there as well. I believe the cost to get that done is around $3,500.

I put on a cooler bypass filter about 3k miles ago and the filters are clean, even the first one was pretty clean.

I just had a problem with starting. The truck would start but only idle at about 300 rpm very roughly, and die as soon as it was put in gear or the pedal was touched. Trying to restart it a few times and it would usually be okay. It threw the code for turbo underboost as well as crank sensor. I had the crank sensor replaced and the very next day it did the same exact thing. While driving it the VGT% stayed at 86 for a while no matter what I did, until it eventually started moving again. I am assuming that I have sticking vanes and that the unison and such needs cleaned. I am not sure how much most shops would charge to do that while doing the other work? I am guessing I can get a new turbo or have this one worked over for $1,500 or so?

That ends up being about $5,000. I'm not sure if it's worth spending that much on this truck, or if I should just trade it in on a new Chev gas truck. If I was confident that after spending the 5k I would get another 100k or so relatively trouble free miles I would do it in a heartbeat.

Any thoughts or advice would be really appreciated.

 

Id keep the truck and fix it every truck has it issues. 5k now im assuming trucks paid off or close to it or go get a chevy for 20-40k and pay it off over five years. Be an easy decision for me.

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Yes, the truck has been paid for long ago. It is a company owned truck. My current truck is loaded, I ordered it with every option other than the moon roof and PTO, and I put in an aftermarket sound system, drop down DVD/Game system. It's in excellent shape. I can buy a new Chev crew cab gas through the commercial department, much less equipped than my current truck, for about 35k, MSRP about 41k. With the section 179 and bonus depreciation there is some advantage to buying a new company truck. If I can put 5k into this truck and get a few more years out of it, that is more economical than the depreciation on a new truck though.

 

To me its be a no brainer. That diesel motor will outlast a gas motor every time.but it just takes a little extra money to get those 6.0 running good if there having issues. If you plan on doing the head studs id do the gaskets as well. But 5k now is alot cheaper than 35k for a new chevy gasser. I got rid of my 99 Powerstroke and am kicking myself in the *** for doing it I didnt need the power on a daily basis but WHEN I do need it its not there in this 5.4 liter f150. Id het her fixed up and of you treat her right shell last you thousands more milrs

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Oh and don't listen to these chevy and dodge guys they'll tell a 6.0 owner to sell it every time. There's guys here that eve 6.0 and use them for work and play and can help you along the way.

P.S. my uncle has one with over 140k on the clock completely stock and he uses it for work pulling trailers (car trailer) to Texas and back and plowing snow in the winter never had one problem so far just does basic up keep their good trucks my friend with a litter work like every other truck out there

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What part of the country are you in? there are guys that spend more than that to put wheels and tires on a truck. If you don't use any kind of programmer I wouldn't bother with the studs, rebuild the oil cooler and with a flush and coolant filter and EGR delete you are good to go, under 500 in parts and a good days work, that includes cooler, stand pipes and dummy plugs and inake gaskets and also STC fitting if that hasn't been addressed yet.

 

I am in eastern Washington.

Even without a programmer my stock engine studs were replaced under the powertrain warranty. I am concerned they could go out again. I figured while a mechanic is in there it is less expensive to do the studs if my gaskets are still good and they can do it without taking the heads off. What do you think? Should I still skip the studs? I thought about getting a program that would limit boost in an attempt to keep from stretching my studs.

 

I'd stick to the diesel as opposed to gaser. I've got an 03 f250 with 130,000 on it. Paid 11,500 for it back in December. Stupid me bought it as is knowing it had one injector bad in it. Since December I've done 3 injectors, 2 batteries and the dreaded icp sensor on the 03 model and am still very happy with my purchase.

 

I would never put studs in without removing the heads. You're just asking for problems. It's a silly practice that simply doesn't work on a 6.0. The heads need to come off, they should be pressure checked, magnafluxed, decked, and new gaskets should be used. Otherwise, don't bother.

$1500 to clean the turbo? No. You can do that yourself in an afternoon if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. You can also buy a new powermax turbo off the shelf for $1250 shipped to your door, or just go ahead and clean your stocker up. DTS Articles - Turbocharger Reconditioning

Do you run a programmer now? If you don't plan on running one, I wouldn't worry about the studs. Just leave it as is. Usually head gaskets pop from the oil cooler clogging. If you're doing an EGR delete, I'd also do a coolant filter, rebuild the oil cooler, do some coolant flushes and call it a day.

Tough pill to swallow dropping $30k or more on a new truck when you could fix this one up for a lot less, and have a better truck.

 

Thanks for the info. That is the way I am leaning right now. I've talked with a few folks that have done the ARP studs without removing the heads, but I realize it isn't ideal. Maybe I'll skip that and do the other work. Should I consider a simple program just to limit the boost, to possibly help prevent head bolt stretching?

Another advantage to keeping this truck is that it was depreciated completely the first year it was put into service, and any amount given on trade reduces the cost basis of a new truck for depreciation, so it kills a bit of the tax advantages.