2005 ford f350 6.0 no start
I found this 2005 f350 sd crew cab online and offered them 1k for it and they accepted it (knowing it had unknown engine problem). Got the truck home and charged up the batteries a bit and turned it over and it seems to turn over very easy . Best way to describe it is if you would take a gas engine, remove the spark plugs and turn it over . Didn't see any visible smoke coming from the exhaust . checked it with a code reader and their is no codes . Is the motor blown ? Don't really see every cylinder going at once . Not very experienced with diesels .
Does it build oil presure, does the guage move when you are cranking? it takes a couple seconds then it should move. Is it getting fuel? pull the cap off the fuel filter on top of motor and have someone crank it to see if it fills up. If it is getting oil presure and fuel there are a couple other things to test, first I would test the FICm located on the top of drivers side valve cover, see the sticky on top of 6.0 section. If that test out good I would pull the IPR sensor, it is located behind and below turbo, it has a foil heat shield wrapped around it so it might be a little hard to spot the first time, you want to see if the screen on end of it is blown out or clogged up. lets start there and see what we find out.
ok, so its getting fuel . Battery's was to low to turn over long enough to see if oil pressure built up . I've got a charger on it right now . Have you ever had one turn over with little or no resistance like that though ?
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Ok got it charged to turn over, small amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust . tbs fault came up on the dash . oil pressure gauge was at the half way mark . seemed like it was trying to fire on one of the cylinders but that's all it did .
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Ok got it charged to turn over, small amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust . tbs fault came up on the dash . oil pressure gauge was at the half way mark . seemed like it was trying to fire on one of the cylinders but that's all it did .
Last edited by odoyle533; May 6, 2012 at 11:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
http://www.bscustoms.net/diesel/FICM.pdf
Here are the directions for testing the Ficm.
Your oil presure is right where it should be, you are in good shape now, it is going to be a high presure oil problem or the FICM most likely.
Check all your connections at drivers side fender well area, that is where engine harness hooks up, push on all of them to make sure they are snapped together.
If you could ghet it on a scanner to see what ICP desired and ICP actuall are it would help alot. The high presure oil system has to make 500psi for the injectors to be able to fire,
I would pull the IPR sensor and make sure the screen is not clogged or broken.
You can pull the connector off the ICP sensor on pass side valve cover and try to start it too, a bad icp could cause it to not start.
Here are the directions for testing the Ficm.
Your oil presure is right where it should be, you are in good shape now, it is going to be a high presure oil problem or the FICM most likely.
Check all your connections at drivers side fender well area, that is where engine harness hooks up, push on all of them to make sure they are snapped together.
If you could ghet it on a scanner to see what ICP desired and ICP actuall are it would help alot. The high presure oil system has to make 500psi for the injectors to be able to fire,
I would pull the IPR sensor and make sure the screen is not clogged or broken.
You can pull the connector off the ICP sensor on pass side valve cover and try to start it too, a bad icp could cause it to not start.
Wow, that's a steal. Let me know if you want to sell it haha. I need parts!
Almost everyone I've seen that had a "blown motor" ended up being something stupid like a ruptured oil cooler or even simpler a blown EGR cooler...
May not hurt to do a compression test on the cylinders though.
Almost everyone I've seen that had a "blown motor" ended up being something stupid like a ruptured oil cooler or even simpler a blown EGR cooler...
May not hurt to do a compression test on the cylinders though.
Checked all wire connections , everything looks good . Have to go buy a multi meter to test the ficm. Unplugged the icp sensor and no change . How do I go about doing a compression test ? Just use the glow plug holes ? Also I've seen several other online posts about if it was over heated badly that the plastic tube and housing for the oil filter would be melted or warped so I checked that , looks good . No water in the oil or The other way around .
We are just checking the "free" stuff first, If the FICM tests OK before you put it back together it would be a good time to pull the IPR and check it, it helps alot if the FICM is removed to make access easier.



