2005 Ford 4x4 , F350, 4 Door, 6 speed, Dually No mods.
Used for light pulling, work
122k miles
Has had egr replaced about 1 year ago by dealer.

Here is what she is doing.
Get in in the morning and it will start up and run a little rough. The warmer it gets the worse it runs. Skipping no acceleration until it finally shuts down. It will restart but still run horrible unless it has cooled down to a real low tempature.
I had it at the mechanics shop and he put in a new injector cyl 1 because that was the only code it was throwing.( High Voltage)
Before I came to pick it up it threw some more codes (Cyl 3 High Voltage) and (crank shaft position sensor) or it could of been cam not sure. I didn't have him work on those two codes.
When i was leaving it ran fine untill it warmed up. I had to limp it on home just barley made it.
It has the de laminating fuel tank problem. I dropped the tank 4 months ago and removed all the loose paint with a scotch brite. Replaced top and bottom fuel filters which I checked again and they are spotless.
Of course I thought its the ficm with all those different codes so I checked the voltage 48-49v through all cycles of the key and running.
Could it still be the FICM or you think its a HPOP problem? Any more test I can do? I dont have a code reader so Im very limited.
Let me know if I left anything out. And I appreciate your help.

 

Are you getting any color smoke? Black or white?

 

A touch of white just when first started. Very little though and goes away instantly.

 

Sounds like a high pressure oil leak to me. What I don't get is why it restarts so easy when it's warm. Does it fire just as easy warm as it does cold?

Could easily check for a HPO leak with a scanner. Need to monitor ICP desired vs. ICP actual. ICP actual will tell the story.

Your crankshaft or camshaft position sensor... that's typically thrown falsely, when someone tries to crank the truck a lot and it doesn't start.

 

No it wont start easy when its warm. Real hard infact . Where is the most likley leak points and are they something you can see? I appreciate the replys.

 

The most common leak points are the SCT fitting on the high presure oil pump and the dummyplugs in the oilrails that feed the injectors also the supply tube for the oil rails. the leaks are internal in the engine so you can't see them. the parts are cheap but it would take a full day to do it youself, with 2 people it would take about 12 hours to do and maybe $200 in parts.

 

Bob hit the nail on the head.

Bob it's the STC fitting, not SCT! (snap to connect). I know you know the difference, but some of the new guys might not.


P/N for STC kit: 4C3Z-9B246-F (Tousley lists this for $38.50)
P/N for dummy plugs/stand pipes: 6E7Z-9A332-B (Tousley lists this for $102.30)

If you're digging in to do this stuff it may not be a bad idea to just go ahead and do an oil cooler rebuild and an EGR delete...

 

Yaeh Yeah I know//// For some reason I have SCT on the brain STC just doesent flow off the toungue like sct

 

Got stc and dummy plugs today. Ill let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for your help.

 

Just curious, how long are you doing your oil changes? You should be doing them around 5,000 miles bc the 6.0 is a high shearing motor... Just wondering if your oil is breaking down once it's warm?