I feel your pain, I have had issues that forum diagnosis really hindered, but please keep in touch, I would really like to know the answer to this Scooby Doo mystery. There are a couple of other Bombers that would like to know also.

 

If it does it again, tighten down the nut until the spring just bottoms out, then tighten it down a little more. Then put the jamb nut on it and tighten the 2 nuts against each other using 2 wrenches. If you just try to tighten the top nut, both of them will turn and they won't hold; they will both back off together due to vibration.

 

Never heard of them so I wouldn't even use their custom tuning. The name right there says corvettes, mustangs and hot rods... doesn't say DIESEL TUNING. Stick with the big names for tunes. You're talking about how your truck runs and drives here, don't just use a no-name shop. Seriously the SCT "install" is hardly what I would even consider an "install".... you plug the thing in, it turns on, you go through the menus and load the tune, it's quite simple. I can talk you through it over the phone man.

34psi is not enough to blow hoses. If you were running compounds and pushing 60psi maybe...

I would thing towing would actually cause a higher boost situation than racing... racing an empty truck doesn't really put a large load on it.

Unfortunately I don't think there is much else we can do from here, you're right. My only other suggestion is finding someone with another 6.0 and swapping the CAC tube and hose and see if it changes. You said you've swapped the stock CAC tube off for the banks, but have you tried another Ford CAC tube? If you were closer I'd swap with you today just to see what the heck is up. I do have a spare CAC tube I'd be willing to ship to you to try out.

Could you maybe take the CAC tube off and get a pair of vernier calipers and measure the OD of the tube where the boot connects? Maybe it's egg shaped, or too small or something. We could compare it to one of ours. I know we're stretching here, but we're willing to help any way we can from behind a monitor.

You said it still does this even when returned to stock right? As in stock tuning...?


Karl, if there was a crack in the turbo housing I would think it would make NO boost or very little. A hole/crack in a pressurized system is just a way for pressure to escape and air is going to take the path of least resistance. Even if the vanes were stuck, he would know it. It'd either be really doggy down low and light hard up top, or it would be quick to spool and fall on it's face and have a ton of backpressure. The vanes can only move so far, so figure when we're singing at full boost that's the max travel for the vanes and we're not blowing boots, you know what I mean?

I hate to rule out the clamp/boots etc, but if he's changed them so many times it's hard to argue that it's not those... maybe we do need to think outside the box on this one.

This might help, but he really shouldn't be needing to double nut this thing to keep it on... there is something else going on here we're overlooking...


LargeMarge, have you tried the hair spray on the boots? Makes them STICK real good. These are Ford boots you're using right?

 

I'm sorry it was Diesel Performance Parts | OC DIESEL

 

If that crack were in the compressor section, yes, little to no boost. I KNOW an exhaust leak before the turbo kills the boost, but what about an exhaust leak IN the turbo?

What if that crack were in the turbine (hot) section, which is isolated from the compressor (cold) section. Couldn't a leak in the turbine housing "ease" the pressure on the turbine, allowing it to spin faster, thus making more boost, or at least spiking the boost so rapidly it blows the boot off? It would certainly explain the hideous exhaust leak after 3 down tubes were installed.

If there is soot on the cast iron part of the housing, that would indicate a leak. It doesn't cost anything to look...

I'm all for abstract solutions for this, none of the usual fixes seem to apply.

 

I see what you're saying now, but no it would not make more boost, you'd lose a lot of heat which is what essentially drives the turbo. You'd have major failure is my guess, but I seriously doubt it would create more boost. If it would, guys would be figuring out a way to make it work...

You're right, I'm not sure where else to look, this is such a simple thing that it's blowing my mind.

 

One person I spoke to suggested maybe I have a clog in the inter cooler or the computer is registering a lower boost then whats really there so it allows it to boost higher.

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Clogged catalytic converter?

 

I followed this thought process when my boots were popping off.
I reasoned that maybe I forgot a rag in the intercooler tube input or output.
Have you ever used the black aftermarket boots that disintegrated for more than a few people? This would clog the intercooler input side.
This might explain higher boost causing the tube to pop off.
I never considered the possibility that it was something as simple as the nuts backing off, but that was exactly what it was for me. My personal belief is that the spring tension in the clamps is too low to hold to tubes on and that's why I suggested to tighten it a little after bottoming out the springs. I've had mine 'double nutted' without bottoming out the springs and they still popped off.

 

well I just threw the banks inter cooler and ram air back on, I figured I'd save myself $400. The savings will go toward better upgrades.

 

If there was a clog in the intercooler back pressure would be through the roof and you'd be having more issues than tubes popping off me thinks.

So does the stuff not pop off with the banks stuff on?