The ICP sensor is on the passenger side valve cover/it goes right through the vlve cover/ behind the glow plug module. you can pull it out,forget the socket size, then crank it over till oil comes out,have a rag handy, then reinstall and crank.It can take 20 cranks or so to get enough pressure to fire it up without priming the system first.
In order to prime it properly you would have to remove both valve covers and and then remove the ICP sensor and the plug on the drivers side ol rail, same location as the ICP port, as the oil rails are interchangeable, then fill the rails from one side with oil till the oil comes out the other oil rail on oppisite side, I always wind up working to fast and forget to do this myself and wind up cranking and cranking

 

Bobfbigman,

Ok I've located the ICP sensor and have removed it. The hole is so tiny I've been using a squirt can with Rotella-T to try and prime it. Are we trying to push air out of the system? Is that the problem with priming the pump? Much the same way as if you were replacing a radiator and then having to "burp" the system to get air out?

Just trying to better understand the principle behind this. I'm kind of getting worried I have a somehow different problem. I have went over everything in my mind and am confident we installed things correctly and properly torqued.

Also on my EGR cooler (I have a square lifetime warranty Dorman). When I first replaced it the little blue tube would leak. This time because I pulled the EGR cooler to get to one of the HPOP cover bolts I ordered another little blue tube and replaced it.

When we got every thing finished up yesterday and topped of the coolant reservoir,
we noticed it was leaking again. I'm thinking when we get it running it will possibly seal as the O-rings inside the tube expands. This just seems like a poor design to me. Any thoughts would be appreciated as always.

Thanks again,

Whitey Cook

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Hey again,

I think I've found part of my problem. I checked my OBD II codes and it indicated low voltage to injector circuits 1 & 2. I did some checking and the common denominator was either the FICM or the wiring harness. The two back plugs going to the FICM have broken clips that would normally secure the wiring harness to the FICM and they definitely were loose. I tried securing them with some wire but no help. I hope we didn't fry the FICM cause now I don't even get it to try and start and it still sets the two code for injectors 1 & 2.

I did pull the ICP sensor and had my son crank it. Oil came out but not under a lot of pressure, just kind of ran out. My truck has probably cranked at least a hundred times over the past 2 days. Wouldn't that be enough to prime the HPOP even under a worst of circumstances?

I found the wiring harness I need (Ford part# 5C3Z-9D930-A) for $190 on E bay. Does that sound like a reasonable price?

Thanks,

Whitey Cook

 

Yes that is a good price, ford get 240 for them. you can replace that little blue hose with a piece of heater hose and use regular hose clamps on it. the oil won't come out with alot of pressure because it can't build up unless the system is closed. Are your injectors buzzing when you turn the key on? that should be a clue.

 

My son said yes he thinks they are. I'm inside the truck and don't hear much except the fuel pressurizing, at least that what I think it is. I tried safety wiring the connector harness under the FICM and now it isn't even trying to start. I'm going to wait until I get the new harness. It has been shipped so hope fully 6-7 July.

With the oil coming out of the ICP port even just a little is that an indication that the HPOP is primed enough to get the needed 500 psi to pressurize the injectors?

Thanks again

Whitey

 

if you have oil coming out then it should fire up after 4 or 5 cranks. make sure you have the ground wire hooked up on that harness too, it hooks to the back intake bolt, also if you remove that one bolt it makes getting your hands back to the IPR valve a lot easier. you might want to test the ficm too, there is a "how to" at the top of the 6.0 section

 

bobfbigman,

Just wanted to bring you up to date. Got the new harness yesterday afternoon. Installed it today and now we are up and running but it did take a lot of cranks. Got it up to running temp and then let it sit for about 5 minutes. This time after just about 4-5 cranks it fired right up.

Is there anything we should be looking out for in particular?? Before, as I suspect this problem was getting worse, the engine would kind of "stumble" while sitting at an idle. I will watch for this as we go. So far no leaks or anything else.

As always thank you so much for your expertise. I would never have suspected this problem as I didn't understand how it worked. This has been a great experience for both myself and my son. We both now know a lot more about these trucks.

Thanks again,

Whitey Cook

 

Great to hear, the starting will get even better once you get all the air out of the system, I normally take at least a 20 mile trip and accelerating pretty aggressively every now and then to purge the air.