I got a good running 2006 6.0 that runs better than any other I've had, but if i drive it around and turn it off at the drive thru window of my favorite fast food restaurant, (so i can hear the attendant take my order), the thing wont start right away. I have been running down several DTC's like the glow plug circuit malfunction. I now have that fixed it needed 2 glow plugs. So back to the hot starting issue, the next problem i'm experiencing is every morning after my commute to work the water in fuel light comes on. I drain it and about enough water and rust comes out to make up one luggie. (Spit) I really don't think that is too significant. I checked the voltage of the FICM and its at 48v. I looked at the coolant temp and it seems consistent with what I estimate the engine to be at. It is not flooding (no white smoke out the tailpipe) and when it starts, it lights quick.
I believe it has an electronic issue, does anyone have any more insight on my issue. This truck doesn't start as fast as any other I have owned, even in the morning but it does run right. My brother pointed out to me that it seems to start when you let the starter switch go and I believe he is kinda right.

 

not starting hot is usually a high pressure leak. when engine is cold oil is thick. when it gets to operating temp the oil is thinner and finds bad orings or other issue areas to leak by. best thing for it is to take it to a shop that specializes in 6.0 and have them apply air to the high pressure oil sysetm and look for a leak

 

Back to the issue of not starting. I've been running around and cannot make it fail. Then on Monday, after I drove to pick up a tractor, loaded it up and ready to leave, it would not start. I cranked for 15 seconds continuously hoping for it to start. Then I switched it off and waited for 10 seconds, turned it on and waited for the glow plug light to go out, (2 seconds maybe) and still no start after probably 5 seconds of cranking. I got out of the truck and disconnected the connector on the rt. frt. valve cover ICP Sensor I believe, and had my partner crank it and it started, so with it running I plugged it back in. No problems since. Is it coincidence that it started or is the connector or the part the problem??

 

no, when you unplug the icp sensor on pass side valve cover it causes the ipr to remain 100% closed, causing higher HPOP pressure. you have a small leak in the high pressure system somewhere.

 

Yes, the leak is either in the branch tubes to the rails on either head, or at the fitting behind the HPOP.

 

Thanks for the response. I'm sure you are right. In the time it took for a response, I got a new Injector control pressure sensor and installed it...It did have a cracked body at the connector but after changing it, it has not failed....I guess I'm hoping for the best....I'm sure its a matter of time before I'm filling the crankcase up with diesel. I'm gonna leave it alone though, so long as it keeps starting..... I'll post back if it fails sooner than later...