thanks for the offer mdub, but not needed. Last night i broke the sensor off trying to remove it from the elbow which is attached to the bracket... held the elbow with a wrench while i was loosening but to no avail... picked up a new one and easy outed the remainder of it from the elbow... installing new one in a few hours. The elbow was crudded up to the point the inside was half the diameter of its original size... tube was pretty good and inside bottom of sensor didnt seem too bad. See where i am at after driving and i will post. Really appreciate your time.

 

No worries man. Work is paying me here to sit at this computer anyways, might as well do something useful! Hope that works out for you. I hate to see someone just throw money/parts at a truck that isn't 100% diagnosed, but it's hard to do over the net sometimes.

 

u've been a big help mdub... even if i'm not fixing the problem, the way I look at it is the parts i through at it now will be that much less i have to do later...hopefully. I am sure learning a lot too. Knowledge is power! I have the truck back together but am hella tired so won't be driving till tomarrow. May take her in friday for gears and lockers. I need something new to focus on other than this irritating problem!

 

i dont know if this would help but i had some serges with the truck at red lights too.... i tried everything to fix it like fuel additives and such and ya ended up bringing the truck to ford and getting it fixed... the thing that was causing it was a faulty computer harness. im not sure what caused it and i found that i had codes popping up every where and almost everything. the truck really bad and also the injector pressure where way outa wack.. but ya as soon i got the harness replaced it went away so this may help or not.. but i payed alot of money to get it fixed

 

THE VERDICT IS IN!!!!!!!!!!Truck is fixed after months! IPR was bad.... in all replaced icp and ebp sensors before discovering the ipr was bad. Mdub, you sir where on the right track.. First two times at left coast we saw nothing out of the ordinary on the scanner, then this friday we looked at it again. Seemed good at lower rpms, but when looking at higher rpms 3000plus, icp was all over the place. Truck was missing like crazy trying to hold rpms at 3000rpm. Icp had just been replaced so we went to IPR. After replacing yesterday morning the truck purs like a kitten again and pulls as hard as a freight train. No more huge clouds of smoke. Im not sure if i just noticed the symptoms really early or what...but it was a evolving problem which slowly got worse over 5-6 months. Anyway she is good for now. Thanks again to all the helped and responded!

 

Glad to hear you finally got that figured out! And thanks for posting the results too.

 

mdub, looking to order coolant bypass filter...in your opinion is sinisters bypass legit? Would like to flush system, change coolant and replace thermostate. Thermostate replacement as easy as a 5.7 chevy gas engine or is it more involved?

 

I can't comment on the thermostat as I haven't done one myself, but I don't believe it's very difficult to do.

Sinister makes a nice kit. I use the dieselsite.com kit, they both do the same. Sinister is more "colorful" for sure, just depends which one you think looks better. I think Sinister also uses crimped lines, and the dieselsite uses hose clamps, so the sinister might be a hair better now. When you get filters for these, make sure you use their filters or if you find a replacement, do NOT use "charged" filters, it will continually release crud through the system and re-catch it in the filter. You'll take the filter off and think something is seriously wrong, and it will be, but it's from the filter. So stick to non-charged filters. I just buy the baldwin units that dieselsite uses.

 

i believe they sell wix filters with sinisters kit. They alright for this bypass? Mdub... awhile ago we touched on the subject of my truck almost overheating while ac blasting, in fourwheel drive crawling about 5 miles an hour up our very steep drive way. Most of the road is steep hills... about a 10 minute crawl from the main road. Anyway, it got hot again yesterday coming home and I don't believe I heard the fan kick in. I stopped at the top of the hill and the temperature came down fairly quickly. The fan is turning while the motor is running but I didnt hear it kick into "high gear" while the temp was rising. So question, clutch fan bad? Or is there a fuse or relay that turns it on when at a certain temp?

 

There is a sensor for that, I do believe they have been known to go bad. I think you can actually monitor it through one of the scanners.