mdub, whats up with batmowheel? Sounds frickin gay! i assume its a new compressor wheel... Worth 400 or should I spend the 1200 or 1300 on the powermax? I dont want to short cut on this truck so the money is not a option. i.e. in 13,000 worth of upgrades now. How hard is the banjo bolt install, anything to be aware of on the install?? Im sure there is a thread on this already but I dont have the energy to search for it. If there is can u send the link? Thanks, long week of work and too many beers after.... On another note, i'm running the Opti-lube XPD and noticed a much smoother idle. I'm sold and not switching! p.s. the idle issue has not resurfaced since i changed my fuel filters a few days ago and noticed one of the electrical plugs on the frame mounted fuel pump not completely plugged in! keeping my fingers crossed....could it be?

 

Very well could have been it.

I like the Opti-lube stuff myself, and there is testing to back it up.

Batmowheels are cool man! haha. The blades of the compressor wheel are wavy, instead of normal straight. This in effect lets the blade have more surface area, while stuffing it into a smaller package, they seem to be the new hot setup, and in the last week or so they have released drop in wheels for 6.0 and 6.4 stock turbos. I believe there is also a batmowheel upgrade for the powermax. If you have the money, just get the powermax, and you can always upgrade later.

As for the banjo's, it'll be stupid easy if you have a single alternator truck, if you have the duals, like I do.... PITA. Still do-able, just a lot more tedious and time consuming. If you follow the fuel lines from the fuel bowl on the motor to the front of the motor, you will see where they are bolted to the head. You need to just pull those bolts and put the new ones in. Make sure to use new copper crush washers too (you can probably re-use the old ones, but new ones are cheap). The part numbers for the bolts and washers are posted here, just do a quick search and search under posts by powerstroketech87.

 

well....pulled these codes today with the SCT programmer, p0603 and p132B. Anyone have ideas? The idleing issue seems to be more frequent. I believe the second code is a boost performance code, WTF turbo was split and cleaned within six months ago? Really! Mdub, what say you on this? I hope i'm getting closer to a solution on this because I told my wife today i'm really close to trading in on a Cummins or a Duramax!!!

 

P0603 is KAM or keep alive memory, meaning the batteries have been unhooked recently possibly? Is this true? Have you been programming and going back to stock at all, that could also possibly do it. The P132b is a boost code, and everything I see about it says to tear the turbo down and clean it... though you did that recently. I also found this bit of info...

http://www.fordinstallersupport.com/...atsnew/DTL.pdf

It's a LOT of info, but some good stuff about the 132b code. I've also heard a few cases where an aftermarket air filter could do this.

Any idea the last time the truck had an updated flash from Ford?

 

mdub, not sure on the updated flash, have it market under the hood will post tomorrow. thought i had the problem solved when i replaced the icp sensor over the weekend, but.....no. idle sucked again inconsistently today. On to the FICM volt check. Am i checking for DC voltage? I know very little on electrical....sorry. Car stereo installing is the extent of my experience with auto electrical.

 

Find out when it was flashed last. When you shut the truck off does it buzz after shut down, or does it buzz when you first turn the key to start it up?

 

buzz before start up...last reflash that i know of is reprogram pcm 3U7A-FUE on 12/14/04. so now here is the list of trouble shooting that's been done to date. Left Coast Diesel on scanner for cylinder contribution test, and test...tested turbo, ran the truck underload up to 3500-4000 rpm...etc. I replaced the icp sensor, cleaned the maf, egr valve. checked volts on both batteries also under load both good. Did ficm volt test with key on position not running, cranking and running... all numbers a hair over 48 volts. Wtf! Fuel pressure is my next plan of attack. Can i pick up a cheap mechanical gauge from auto parts store, where can it be hooked into? i see a alan head fitting near the upper fuel filter housing. Is this a port which a gauge can be screwed into?
symptoms are: runs great 50% of the time, Very little smoke on innovative extreme street tune.

sometimes idles rough, when this happens; if i get on it is boggish smokes alot of black smoke, doesnt want to shift down. Boost numbers seem to be appropriate but the fire just doesnt want to light. If i step on it really hard, black cloud, then she tears *** and the smoke clears up.
Running REV X oil supl. Optilube XPD fuel additive, changing oil every 4000ish miles, fuel filters replaced a week or so ago, ARP headstuds, gaskets, oil cooler, bulletproof egr cooler, turbo split and clean, bulletproof turbo drain etc were done in January. 56000 miles.
I feel like this

 

Man I wish you were closer so I could put a scanner on it myself. I would still really like to know what desired ICP vs actual ICP looks like. Again, you can read this yourself with your SCT and a labtop. I also can't help but wonder what condition the IPR is in.

You need something more serious than the SCT to pull codes with. IDS, or Autoenginuity would help. I find a LOT more codes on problematic trucks with Autoenginuity than I do with my SCT.

Also would be interesting to see VGT solenoid duty for the turbo.

To answer your question, the easiest way to check the fuel pressure is a cheap mechanical gauge, run it out of the hood by the windshield and then hold it down with one of the wipers, then go out and run the truck. If you're getting black smoke it tells me you're getting fuel and not enough air though. Which seems odd since it only happens some times, and not all times.

One more simple thing I want you to try out. I'm starting to think this may be an electrical issue. You might have a wire harness chaffing somewhere causing this erratic idle, which only seems to happen some of the time. Find your EBP sensor/tube. Pull both out, inspect and clean. I had an issue with mine where I thought the turbo was sticking. My boost would fall to 0 going down the road and if I rolled into it I could leave a black cloud for miles before it would downshift and re-light the turbo. The EBP (exhaust back pressure) sensor caused it. There is a tube coming off of the exhaust manifold, up to this sensor. The tubes can sometimes become clogged and the sensors become dirty. When this happens, it simulates a sticky turbo. Mine did it intermittently (which told me the turbo wasn't actually sticking), and it was because the wires going to the sensor had chaffed. Had to pull the plug all apart, and re-wrap those wires, problem went away. It's amazing how one or two little chaffed wires make an entire truck run like crap.

 

which side is the ebp tube on left or right? Thanks for helping mdub. Im going to send you a case of beer in the mail when i figure this one out bro!

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believe i found it on the drivers side... pulled tube and shot maf sensor cleaner through it... a little dirty but not plugged. Will have to pull sensor off another day since i ran out of day light. is the sensor expensive? I may just replace it.

 

Not sure, I have a spare sensor for an 03/04 truck sitting here if you want it. Just try cleaning it first though, they just get gummed up with soot and crap. Imagine how the EGR valve looks, this sees the same crap.