Guy just bought a truck, probably excited about it, absolutely no need for a comment like this. IMO if you're not going to post something relevant in this situation, keep it to yourself.

 

What kind of warranty did they include? Post up some pics.

Luke

 

Start small, coolant filter, then fuel pressure gauge, engine oil temp gauge, engine coolant temp gauge. Fuel pressure gauge is important for making sure your injectors will last, they need 50+ psi to stay safe. 45 and under, bad news.

ECT and EOT gauges need to be monitored together, they should never exceed a difference of 15 degrees F. Once they start going more than that, your oil cooler is plugged and when that happens, EGR coolers will fail, and possibly headgaskets.

A full EGR delete kit is a great idea too, if you're not in Cali.

At the miles you're at, I'd do a full coolant flush, and I'd also replace any and all fluids throughout the entire truck.

 

Heres somethings i HIGHLY recommend.
1. Oil changes i dont care what ford or anyone else says, change the oil every 3k and STICK WITH OEM FILTERS+CAP!

2. There are ALOT of things that go wrong with these engines, BUT there are alot of known permanent fixes for MOST of them. For starters these engines the injectors fire from FICM and Oil pressure. HIGH oil pressure, Post the VIN or PM it to me ill run an oasis report tomorrow at the dealership and find out what all warranty work has been performed. Beings they fire off oil pressure, there are components that wear out such as stand pipe and dummy plug o rings, and the dreaded STC fitting, Since ive been in with ford ive replaced the stand pipes and dummy plugs with the ones for the 4.5 LCF motor, which when ford updated their stand pipes and dummy plugs, have put the LCF sets in which have a nylon ring under the O ring for more support i suppose... Around 70-90k miles we tend to see alot of no starts, no starts when hot, and rough running at high loads wot.

3. Injectors. Injectors up here in the seasonal climates tend to not like the winter time and a first sign of an injector going south is when the truck idles rough, lacks power, when cold until its at opperating temp. Supposedly fully synthetic oil and products like REV X help this. CLEAN FUEL IS A MUST! SO IS PROPER FUEL PRESSURE! I highly recommend changing fuel filters every 3-5k with FORD ONLY! here is the updated Fuel pressure regulator part number along with 6.4 banjo bolts and washers. 3C3Z-9T517-AG is the fuel pressure regulator W302472 Is the banjo bolts W303659 is the washers. And the motorcraft fuel additives are OK but Diesel Kleen and 911 are the best!

4. FICM-To keep these from dying, make sure your batteries are healthy, there isnt much you can do to keep these things from burning out other than ensuring proper charging system output and battery state of health. the genious engineers decided to put a sensitive electrical device on top of a hot shakey diesel. Brilliant.

5. Coolant system-Ford motorcraft VC-7 should be the only coolant in there! NO GREEN! if green and gold mix, kiss your head gaskets, oil cooler, egr cooler and possibly your heads good bye. When they mix they turn to jelly. Ive seen it first hand, also wrecks havoc with water pumps and front covers. Coolant filter i HIGHLY suggest. If you plan on keeping it stock and tow or just tune or whatever, Get rid of those torque to yield bolts under warranty and have ARP studs installed. Along with a new OIL cooler.EGR delete kit as well or a Bullet Proof Diesel EGR cooler if you need the egr cooler for emissions... I install sinister kits left and right.

6. Here in NY oil pans rot out left and right, theyre easy as hell to do. The oil pans rot out from the cheap metals used. The solution is New Pan with high temp coating, new bolts, new pickup tube gasket and new oil pan gasket.

7. Turbo-Turbos carbon up causing the vanes not to move like they should, theyre easy to remove and easy to disassemble and easier to clean! I also suggest you DONT let the truck sit. If you do the unison ring will rust and pit and stick to the housing causing lack of boost concerns, will throw P2263-Turbo/Supercharger boost system performance code. The up pipe bellows tend to crack, The Blue CAC hoses tend to leak, and the plastic cold side cac pipe almost always blows off or cracks. Heres the metal ones part number from ford 6C3Z-6C640-AA (although there are aftermarket ones out there that are larger)

And thats about it off the top of my head...

 

Wow, seeing what you all think is "needed" for long life......
I have 240k on my 04 f350.
Needed for long life= coolant filters-egr delete- fuel filter changed regularly- oil changed at 7k mile intervalls with conv. oil/ longer with syn. pyro guage is also good.

When you tow just use common sense, don't push the egts through the roof.
There are some good tunes out there for mileage and power but don't do it unless you plan on upgrading some of the other stuff people have stated

 

2 year extended powertrain.

 

mine has 179,000 miles on it, its been studed, egr delete, ect. the on problem i have is the ficm, ive been threw 2 and now its shot again im having it upgraded, maybe it will last

 

I think everyone knows your FICM died again by now. You've posted it in nearly every single thread in here.

 

hey, Mdub707 do u have that zoodad mod?

 

Yes. I noticed not a single thing from it, but I suppose it couldn't hurt.