Ford Powerstroke 03-07 6.0L Discussion of 6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels

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  #31  
Old 12-03-2010, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 6.0 kiddo
Thanks for the photos man! This looks like a bit more managable than pulling the cab... boy I wish I knew about this method before I did my head studs...
It's a much easier and quicker job to pull the cab, don't let anyone fool you. A good tech can have the cab off of one of these trucks and in the air in 45 minutes.
 
  #32  
Old 12-03-2010, 09:15 AM
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Mdub is right about that. If I had it to do all over again, I would prefer the cab off. The problem is having the equipment to pull the cab properly. I have the shop space, but not the height to lift it. That's why I took the antiquated approach, but it did work. If you are in a hurry this is not the approach to take messing with tranny and engine mounts, it is doable.

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Are any of you folks running EOT/ECT gauges or displays? If so, what type?
 

Last edited by deucer; 12-03-2010 at 09:15 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #33  
Old 12-03-2010, 09:54 AM
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Most people buy the edge insight to read eot and ect temps
 
  #34  
Old 12-03-2010, 10:18 AM
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Those are the next gauges on my list to purchase. I'll probably get the ISSPRO EV2's. I just got them for fuel pressure and fuel level for my WVO tank. I like them. Wish I could still get Dipricol Otpix gauges though...
 
  #35  
Old 12-05-2010, 08:06 PM
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Right head is back on and complete less valve cover installation. I am sore from head to toe. Torqued head bolts in sequence 75-150-200-245 and I used muscles I haven't used in 25 yrs.
Lessons learned using the in Cab head job (oops sorry):
1. Remove A/C compressor and Power Steering Pump. With engine tilted to the left for clearance, you may trap Powering steering pump against frame. When engine is returned to proper location a leak developed at the pump. Haven't investigated yet, but I think I snapped the fitting on the pump. I think I can pull the hose and replace fitting, but with my luck you have to buy the pump to get the fitting.
2. After torquing heads and tightening Rocker Arm assembly and before installing injectors, it would be wise to install Glow Plugs first. Why? Because while installing injectors, if you snap off a Torx Tip like I did (of all places #7 cylinder), you prevent the shrapnel from dropping into the glow plug hole. The truth is, I'm not certain that is where it went. I had not installed the glow plugs yet and the only other opening at that location is an oil passage. I spent an hour and a half with flashlight, mirror and magnet stick inspecting for debris and cold not find anything unless it dropped into the plug hole, oil passage, or popped right out of the head into the shop somewhere. Man, I'm not gonna pull that head back off. I don't know if it broke into a couple of little fragments or one piece. Assuming it broke into one piece it would be no larger then .150 to .200 long and .030 to .050 thick @ max. taper. Man that ruined what I thought was a very careful and meticulous job installing the head. MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE GLOW PLUGS IN BEFORE INJECTORS GO IN! Just my 2 cents worth.

It took about an hour to get the motor mounts realigned and put the bolts back in the right side mount. I have not bolted down permanently yet as I am going to use the clearance for putting the left bank on this morning. Of course, that is provided I can get my energy restored and my attitude adjusted properly. I'm still pi__ed about the broken tip I can't find.
3. Do not get in a hurry. There is no time line to complete.

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Left head is mounted with back stud installed. Put plenty of ARP super whatever on it and stuck it in the hole. Let me tell you, putting that friggin stud in was no easy chore either. That insulation with that shiny shield is now MIA after repeated poundings with a sledge hammer and air hammer. Man am I sore from lifting the head up in the back trying to manipulate the stud at the same time. Don't think I hurt the gasket, but may hands took a beating acting as a cushion for the head. I need to lube the Rocker box seal then load it and put the rest of the studs in. Went ahead and bolt down all the motor mounts and they are complete. In the morning I'll finish the left head installation then put the tranny mounts back in place. Still pi__ed about the broken tip.
 

Last edited by deucer; 12-05-2010 at 08:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #36  
Old 12-06-2010, 08:04 AM
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What ARP lube are you using? The new lube only requires the studs to be torqued to 210 ft-lbs FYI.

You'll have a huge sense of accomplishment once this is done though!
 
  #37  
Old 12-06-2010, 08:27 AM
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It's the new lube. Humm, I remember seeing that on a piece of paper (210 ft. lbs.) Well they got 245 and I ain't going back now and I won't charge extra for the 35 plus lbs. more. Hey Mdub, what kind of tire are you running on your truck? I'm gonna have to change mine in a few months.
 

Last edited by deucer; 12-06-2010 at 09:51 AM.
  #38  
Old 12-06-2010, 07:18 PM
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I run whatever I can find cheap, cause I'm ... well... cheap. The tires in my sig are Cooper Discoverer ST (not the cool STT's). I've used super swampers, these coopers, Dick Cepeck F/C II, stockers, BFG A/T's, and pro-comps of all shape and sizes. If I spent my hard earned bucks on new tires, it'd be Pro-Comps all the way. They hook up awesome off road, last awesome on road, survive torture burnouts, and whatever else you can throw at them. Not sure if I'd get the mud terrain extreme or the all terrain extreme. Both are excellent tires.

Toyo open country MT's also are a great tire and seem to last a long time under the weight of a diesel. They are pricey though for sure, but worth the cost.

Just remember when shopping, you're going to get a lot of opinions on tires, and if someone tells you a certain tire is good, ask if they've used them on a diesel. Diesels weigh a lot more than gas jobs of similar builds, and wear tires faster, so a tire that works good on a 1500 might not last worth a crap on a diesel.
 
  #39  
Old 12-06-2010, 08:04 PM
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Pro Comp huh? All terrain extreme is appealing. Wonder if I can talk Discount Tires down on pricing. I got the left bank complete less valve cover. I'll drop the egr delete pipe in tomorrow followed by the intake manifold. Got to drop the power steering pump down and see what's leaking on it also. If it is hose no problemo, I'll buy a new hose. Getting closer to the end, just a few more days. Still pi__ed about that missing piece off the torqx tip. I got 6 gals. of rotella elc coolant coming in a few days, but I'll flush the system first.
 
  #40  
Old 12-06-2010, 08:25 PM
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Pro comp has a deal usually once a year where they have coupons for buy 3 get 1 free sometimes.

I'm slightly concerned about your studs getting torqued to 245 to be honest. I've spoken with an ARP rep previously about the stud issues (he actually contacted me via PSN). I though they said torquing them to 245 with the new lube would actually damage them. Maybe I'll dig his info up tomorrow at work and contact him for his thoughts on that and let you know.
 



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