EGR Cooler Problem & Maybe Oil Cooler
#41
07-19-2011, 12:07 PM
You might be lucky and just have a small leak on your EGR cooler.
Your EGR valve sounds like more of a real issue though. If you can see daylight, that means you'd have some sort of a HUGE boost leak, which may be the ridiculous noise you're hearing actually. This would also cause the black smoke (no boost = lots of unburnt fuel). I'd find a FORD EGR valve and replace it (should be able to scoop one up on the forum somewhere dirt cheap). I bet that fixes most of your issues right there. My guess is you may still have a small rupture starting in the EGR cooler though...
If you really want to keep the cooler, I would recommend an upgraded one, LOTS of guys use the bulletproof. I'm not too familiar with the Dorman myself. Doens't mean it's bad, just unaware of it. For that money you can do a full valve/cooler delete if you wanted. I know someone that has a few block off plates laying around for the EGR valve, you could just pop one of those on to test it. PM me if you're interested.
Your EGR valve sounds like more of a real issue though. If you can see daylight, that means you'd have some sort of a HUGE boost leak, which may be the ridiculous noise you're hearing actually. This would also cause the black smoke (no boost = lots of unburnt fuel). I'd find a FORD EGR valve and replace it (should be able to scoop one up on the forum somewhere dirt cheap). I bet that fixes most of your issues right there. My guess is you may still have a small rupture starting in the EGR cooler though...
If you really want to keep the cooler, I would recommend an upgraded one, LOTS of guys use the bulletproof. I'm not too familiar with the Dorman myself. Doens't mean it's bad, just unaware of it. For that money you can do a full valve/cooler delete if you wanted. I know someone that has a few block off plates laying around for the EGR valve, you could just pop one of those on to test it. PM me if you're interested.
#42
07-19-2011, 04:30 PM
Whitey Cook
Hey, Thanks a lot for more info.
Here are a few more questions to throw out there. I've heard or read that the CEL will stay on if I go the EGR delete route? True or false??
Also since I'm possibly having other issues such as the Turbo Boost issue which from what I understand is a replacement of aftermarket blades and potentially blown head gaskets down the road of which I understand there is also an aftermarket setup for that as well.
IF I go ahead and stand the truck down do all of the things above, does anyone know if this fixes all the issues the 6.0L has? I really like the truck and it has sentimental value as it was purchased just before my Grandaughter was born and carries her name on the front saying,
Granpa says it's"TEAGAN's Truck" Granpa Says
I just want the truck to be reliable and not strand me and her somewhere.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Whitey Cook
Here are a few more questions to throw out there. I've heard or read that the CEL will stay on if I go the EGR delete route? True or false??
Also since I'm possibly having other issues such as the Turbo Boost issue which from what I understand is a replacement of aftermarket blades and potentially blown head gaskets down the road of which I understand there is also an aftermarket setup for that as well.
IF I go ahead and stand the truck down do all of the things above, does anyone know if this fixes all the issues the 6.0L has? I really like the truck and it has sentimental value as it was purchased just before my Grandaughter was born and carries her name on the front saying,
Granpa says it's"TEAGAN's Truck" Granpa Says
I just want the truck to be reliable and not strand me and her somewhere.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Whitey Cook
#43
07-20-2011, 07:25 AM
Hey, Thanks a lot for more info.
Here are a few more questions to throw out there. I've heard or read that the CEL will stay on if I go the EGR delete route? True or false??
On 05+ trucks it will normally set the check engine light, yes. Sometimes in rare cases it wont, but I would plan on it doing it. The cure is an SCT with custom tunes. If you don't want to actually run a hotter tune or anything of that sort, the vendors can write a "stock tune" that just simply shuts the check engine light off. I would still highly recommend the EGR delete setup, it's just going to save you headaches down the road.
Also since I'm possibly having other issues such as the Turbo Boost issue which from what I understand is a replacement of aftermarket blades and potentially blown head gaskets down the road of which I understand there is also an aftermarket setup for that as well.
I'm not sure what is meant by replacement of aftermarket blades. I'll break it down for you. The stock turbo is a VGT, or a variable geometry turbo. It uses vanes inside of the turbo that can "open" or "close". What this does is tricks the engine into thinking you've got a really tight exhaust housing on the turbo at low RPM's, and allows the turbo to spool faster. As it spools those vanes open up and allow more flow through up top. It's the best of both worlds, acts like a small charger down low and lights fast, but then as you accelerate, the charger opens up and flows like a larger charger. Make sense?
With that said, trucks that idle long periods of time, or never get used as a tow pig or driven hard, will eventually build up soot to the point where these vanes can start to stick. Another scenario is a truck that sits for extended periods of time. The vanes can start rusting and stick too. There is a cleaning procedure that can be done to free these vanes up. A guy with basic tools and mechanical ability can handle it. Here is a link to the reconditioning of the turbo... (I swear I post this link 10x a week!) http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-05.php
Sometimes the vanes stick in a way that will cause an overboost situation. This could lead to headgasket failure. This is a less frequent way for headgaskets to go, but it COULD do it. More often than not, a plugged oil cooler is the root cause for headgaskets. The oil coolers job is to regulate the temps between the coolant and the oil. The inside of the cooler looks somewhat like a radiator, but has VERY small passages. These passages can become blocked over time and will slow flow, and sometimes even stop it. This usually super-heats the coolant and this is the most common way for an egr cooler to erupt. After that, headgaskets. This can be monitored with a coolant temp gauge and an oil temp gauge. The two temps shouldn't exceed more than 15* apart at all times. If it's going 20+ it's getting clogged and it's a warning sign of things to come.
The root cause of this is the block itself. It is sand cast from the factory and over time particles of sand break off inside the water jackets and eventually clog the oil cooler. The solution is a ~$120 coolant filter kit. It is one of the least expensive mods, and one of the most valuable on a 6.0.
IF I go ahead and stand the truck down do all of the things above, does anyone know if this fixes all the issues the 6.0L has? I really like the truck and it has sentimental value as it was purchased just before my Grandaughter was born and carries her name on the front saying,
It's hard to say. I've seen trucks with everything done to a "T" with headstuds, egr deletes, the whole 9, and the owner still has issues. The main reason is the 4 bolts/studs per cylinder head design. It just stinks. Add to this, the countless headstud jobs done incorrectly and it's easy to see just how the 6.0 got such a bad rep. I'd be willing to bet more than 50% of people who have had issues with a 6.0 and got rid of it because of them, had an incompetent mechanic. I've had my fair share of issues, but honestly don't feel like I've had anyone worth while working on my truck (all Ford warranty work). I do as much work on my truck I can, by myself now. A warranty is only as good as the people working on it.
What we really need to know is your intentions with the truck. Is this a grocery getter? Do you tow often? Are you going to be hitting the drag strip on the weekends? Once I know a little more, it will be easier to make suggestions.
Without knowing that info I still say you need the following items for reliability/preventative mods.
Coolant filter (can get from dieselsite.com or sinsiter, they're the same thing, just different colors essentially)
Gauges: EOT (Engine oil temp), ECT (Engine coolant temp), Fuel pressure. (fuel pressure is VASTLY important on a 6.0. If fuel pressure is falling below 45psi for any reason, you're damaging injectors. It should be around 55psi) If you tow a LOT and HEAVY, then maybe a trans temp, but the 5R110 is bulletproof for the most part.
EGR full delete, or a bulletproof cooler.
New oil cooler when you do the EGR delete.
Ford's updated FPR spring kit, this will bump your fuel pressure up a bit, to overcome the drop from the new fuel filters Ford uses, that they don't tell you about. (if you're using motorcraft filters, which you should be).
Extras would be a good 4" turbo back exhaust to help it breathe, lower EGT's (if towing) and just improve sound!
Those mods should make a relatively bulletproof 6.0.
Granpa says it's"TEAGAN's Truck" Granpa Says
I just want the truck to be reliable and not strand me and her somewhere.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Whitey Cook
Here are a few more questions to throw out there. I've heard or read that the CEL will stay on if I go the EGR delete route? True or false??
On 05+ trucks it will normally set the check engine light, yes. Sometimes in rare cases it wont, but I would plan on it doing it. The cure is an SCT with custom tunes. If you don't want to actually run a hotter tune or anything of that sort, the vendors can write a "stock tune" that just simply shuts the check engine light off. I would still highly recommend the EGR delete setup, it's just going to save you headaches down the road.
Also since I'm possibly having other issues such as the Turbo Boost issue which from what I understand is a replacement of aftermarket blades and potentially blown head gaskets down the road of which I understand there is also an aftermarket setup for that as well.
I'm not sure what is meant by replacement of aftermarket blades. I'll break it down for you. The stock turbo is a VGT, or a variable geometry turbo. It uses vanes inside of the turbo that can "open" or "close". What this does is tricks the engine into thinking you've got a really tight exhaust housing on the turbo at low RPM's, and allows the turbo to spool faster. As it spools those vanes open up and allow more flow through up top. It's the best of both worlds, acts like a small charger down low and lights fast, but then as you accelerate, the charger opens up and flows like a larger charger. Make sense?
With that said, trucks that idle long periods of time, or never get used as a tow pig or driven hard, will eventually build up soot to the point where these vanes can start to stick. Another scenario is a truck that sits for extended periods of time. The vanes can start rusting and stick too. There is a cleaning procedure that can be done to free these vanes up. A guy with basic tools and mechanical ability can handle it. Here is a link to the reconditioning of the turbo... (I swear I post this link 10x a week!) http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-05.php
Sometimes the vanes stick in a way that will cause an overboost situation. This could lead to headgasket failure. This is a less frequent way for headgaskets to go, but it COULD do it. More often than not, a plugged oil cooler is the root cause for headgaskets. The oil coolers job is to regulate the temps between the coolant and the oil. The inside of the cooler looks somewhat like a radiator, but has VERY small passages. These passages can become blocked over time and will slow flow, and sometimes even stop it. This usually super-heats the coolant and this is the most common way for an egr cooler to erupt. After that, headgaskets. This can be monitored with a coolant temp gauge and an oil temp gauge. The two temps shouldn't exceed more than 15* apart at all times. If it's going 20+ it's getting clogged and it's a warning sign of things to come.
The root cause of this is the block itself. It is sand cast from the factory and over time particles of sand break off inside the water jackets and eventually clog the oil cooler. The solution is a ~$120 coolant filter kit. It is one of the least expensive mods, and one of the most valuable on a 6.0.
IF I go ahead and stand the truck down do all of the things above, does anyone know if this fixes all the issues the 6.0L has? I really like the truck and it has sentimental value as it was purchased just before my Grandaughter was born and carries her name on the front saying,
It's hard to say. I've seen trucks with everything done to a "T" with headstuds, egr deletes, the whole 9, and the owner still has issues. The main reason is the 4 bolts/studs per cylinder head design. It just stinks. Add to this, the countless headstud jobs done incorrectly and it's easy to see just how the 6.0 got such a bad rep. I'd be willing to bet more than 50% of people who have had issues with a 6.0 and got rid of it because of them, had an incompetent mechanic. I've had my fair share of issues, but honestly don't feel like I've had anyone worth while working on my truck (all Ford warranty work). I do as much work on my truck I can, by myself now. A warranty is only as good as the people working on it.
What we really need to know is your intentions with the truck. Is this a grocery getter? Do you tow often? Are you going to be hitting the drag strip on the weekends? Once I know a little more, it will be easier to make suggestions.
Without knowing that info I still say you need the following items for reliability/preventative mods.
Coolant filter (can get from dieselsite.com or sinsiter, they're the same thing, just different colors essentially)
Gauges: EOT (Engine oil temp), ECT (Engine coolant temp), Fuel pressure. (fuel pressure is VASTLY important on a 6.0. If fuel pressure is falling below 45psi for any reason, you're damaging injectors. It should be around 55psi) If you tow a LOT and HEAVY, then maybe a trans temp, but the 5R110 is bulletproof for the most part.
EGR full delete, or a bulletproof cooler.
New oil cooler when you do the EGR delete.
Ford's updated FPR spring kit, this will bump your fuel pressure up a bit, to overcome the drop from the new fuel filters Ford uses, that they don't tell you about. (if you're using motorcraft filters, which you should be).
Extras would be a good 4" turbo back exhaust to help it breathe, lower EGT's (if towing) and just improve sound!
Those mods should make a relatively bulletproof 6.0.
Granpa says it's"TEAGAN's Truck" Granpa Says
I just want the truck to be reliable and not strand me and her somewhere.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Whitey Cook
You'll never find a single vehicle that wont leave you stranded at SOME point. Every mechanical thing made by man will eventually fail. If you make 1,000,000 trucks, there are bound to be some with issues, just the nature of the game. If you do the mods I listed above, it will drastically improve the life/reliability/shortcomings of the truck you have now. These are really great trucks with those mods done. The only thing I haven't recommended is headstuds, and we can go into more detail about that, IF need be, but answer the questions I highlighted in BLUE and we can discuss that more. The rest of the answers are in RED
I accept payment in the form of beer btw.
#44
07-20-2011, 12:23 PM
Whitey Cook
Hi again and thanks for all the great input.
To answer your questions. My truck is my basic means of transportation. It is a grocery getter. I do tow sometimes. i live out in the country in an Home Owners Association (HOA). We have about 1.5 mile of gravel road. I maintain the road with my truck and a tow behind type of road grader called a Road Groom. It weighs 2000 pounds. When doing the road I put the truck into Low 4WD. I pull the road groom at about 10-20 mph to smooth out washboards and respread gravel. It all depends on weather and such as to how many times a month I do this.
I also have a 16 foot tamdem axle trailer with 5200LB axles and electric brakes, diamond plate floor etc so it's pretty heavy. I don't use it a lot just when I need to get something that won't fit in the bed of the truck.
I don't do the drag strip thing at all!!
I was letting it idle to running temp whenever I used iut buy heard somewhere it wasn't good to do that so now I start it and run it a little and then just baby it to the main road. By then it is usually up to normal temp.
Basically that's the life of me and my truck.
BTW I'v been known to sip a beer now and then. If it's after 4PM it will be more now than then! I'm an old gas grease monkey. When I was in the military (retired at 24 years SMSGT)
In my younger years I worked at a machine shop rebuilding engines from the ground up as a second job. I have not worked on Diesels but do know my way around the internal combustion engine world. My oldest son is also mechanically inclined so he can help.
I will look up these sites you mentioned asa well. I really do appreciate your input so I can decide what I really want to do and the costs.
Thanks,
Whitey Cook
To answer your questions. My truck is my basic means of transportation. It is a grocery getter. I do tow sometimes. i live out in the country in an Home Owners Association (HOA). We have about 1.5 mile of gravel road. I maintain the road with my truck and a tow behind type of road grader called a Road Groom. It weighs 2000 pounds. When doing the road I put the truck into Low 4WD. I pull the road groom at about 10-20 mph to smooth out washboards and respread gravel. It all depends on weather and such as to how many times a month I do this.
I also have a 16 foot tamdem axle trailer with 5200LB axles and electric brakes, diamond plate floor etc so it's pretty heavy. I don't use it a lot just when I need to get something that won't fit in the bed of the truck.
I don't do the drag strip thing at all!!
I was letting it idle to running temp whenever I used iut buy heard somewhere it wasn't good to do that so now I start it and run it a little and then just baby it to the main road. By then it is usually up to normal temp.
Basically that's the life of me and my truck.
BTW I'v been known to sip a beer now and then. If it's after 4PM it will be more now than then! I'm an old gas grease monkey. When I was in the military (retired at 24 years SMSGT)
In my younger years I worked at a machine shop rebuilding engines from the ground up as a second job. I have not worked on Diesels but do know my way around the internal combustion engine world. My oldest son is also mechanically inclined so he can help.
I will look up these sites you mentioned asa well. I really do appreciate your input so I can decide what I really want to do and the costs.
Thanks,
Whitey Cook
#45
07-20-2011, 12:37 PM
#46
07-20-2011, 12:37 PM
Do you have the factory upfitter switches? It's a bank of switches right next to the factory brake controller built into the dash? If you do, I suggest looking into the "high idle mod"... it's an extremely simple mod to do, just a couple wire connections. Then when you want to warm your truck up, hop in, turn it on, let it warm up for a minute or so, then flip the high idle. It will raise your RPM's to 1200rpm, and locks the torque converter in the trans to aid in warm up times. The main point behind this is to prevent what is known as "wet stacking", it's basically when the engine is running, but not producing enough heat to effectively burn all of the fuel, and some of the fuel washes down the cylinder walls. This is why so many people recommend not idling the 6.0 for long periods. If you want to do that, do the high idle mod.
Don't be afraid to give that 6.0 a run every now and then, these motors NEED to be worked. They seem to live longer the more they're worked. The one's that lead an easy life of grocery getting seem to have more issue (turbo sticking being one of them).
Stay on top of your fluid changes as well. Oil no more than 5k miles, fuel filters no more than 10k. The 6.0 needs good clean fluids to survive.
For what you do, studs would be a waste. If it does every blow a headgasket, at that time go ahead and put studs in, since you'd already be diving in. Also for what you're towing, you don't need a trans temp gauge. You're not towing heavy by any means. If you tow 10k + a few times a week, I'd recommend it, but not for what you do. The 5R110 is a great trans. Also as a last recommendation, stick to Motorcraft/Internationl filters, both oil and fuel.
Don't be afraid to give that 6.0 a run every now and then, these motors NEED to be worked. They seem to live longer the more they're worked. The one's that lead an easy life of grocery getting seem to have more issue (turbo sticking being one of them).
Stay on top of your fluid changes as well. Oil no more than 5k miles, fuel filters no more than 10k. The 6.0 needs good clean fluids to survive.
For what you do, studs would be a waste. If it does every blow a headgasket, at that time go ahead and put studs in, since you'd already be diving in. Also for what you're towing, you don't need a trans temp gauge. You're not towing heavy by any means. If you tow 10k + a few times a week, I'd recommend it, but not for what you do. The 5R110 is a great trans. Also as a last recommendation, stick to Motorcraft/Internationl filters, both oil and fuel.
#47
07-25-2011, 09:49 AM
EGR Problem
My first advice is to listen to "Angry Hillbilly". I learned the hard way with my 04, King Ranch 6.0 Crew. I took street advice, added a chip, installed a first rate cold air intake, removed catalyst, blocked my EGR cooler, but in the end, none of that was the problem. I was. 6.0's are very high torque, low RPM engines, but in these days of fast food and no patience everyone wants to get where they're going before they leave. 6.0's were NEVER designed to be run like that. In my case, I pushed it until the #8 intake valve smacked the piston head and killed the cylinder. But my 04 only had 78,00 miles on it, and yes, it had already had one EGR cooler installed. So, here's my worthless two cents after consulting with many 6.0 owners who turned 200,000 miles on their engines with no problems. LOW AND SLOW! The 6.0, ideally will run forever when operating at 2500 to 2800 RPM max! If your not pulling and you've chipped it and want to drive it like a 60's muscle car, then expect problems. If your towing, like me, and always want to be the first one to cap the hill and your pushing your rig to mas EGT's (over 3,000 RPM under load) then expect problems. But, if you follow the advice of LOW AND SLOW (how many truckers do pass on the those hills?) your 6.0 will run sweet. I only use my speedometer to a point after that I am only driving with Tach and EGT gauges. Don's believe me, well, sometime ask yourself why so many of Ford service managers and techs are driving 6.0's. They know how to drive them and they know how to maintain them. So, after I bought my new $16,500.00 6.0 long block and had it installed I also had the EGR block removed and a high quality after market cooler reinstalled, the stock air cleaner reinstalled, my chip stays at "Stock" and I only use the gauge package, and I ONLY use Ford air filters, oil filters, gas filters and transmission filters. I pull around my 38' 5th flawlessly and usually am the LAST one to the top of hill, but never parked with my hood up. I had a 7.3 and had 286,000,000 miles on it before getting rid of it. But it never pulled like my 6.0. Try driving your diesels like diesels were designed. If you cant do that, buy a gas engine! If your driving habits dont change than it wont matter whether you have a 6.0, a 6.4, a 6.9, or any other size diesel engine. As for all those previous threads of mine, well, I exceeded my EGT!!!! Just Say'n.
Last edited by Dieselpuller; 07-25-2011 at 09:51 AM. Reason: spelling
#48
08-17-2011, 11:40 AM
Whitey Cook
Hey Folks,
I guess I've been posting in the wrong forum!! Just to refresh, I have an F-250 2006 6.0L diesel. I had a small EGR cooler leak which contaminated my EGR valve and my Turbo. I replaced the EGR valve, EGR cooler (Dorman Lifetime warranty) and the Turbo with an OEM Garrett Turbo.
I had a problem with the small rubber hose connecting the EGR cooler to the engine but finally got it fixed by replacing the "O" rings inside and bending the little tabs up just a little.
Here's where I am now. I took the truck for a drive after following the instructions that came with the new Turbo,ie primed it and ran it at an idle for a few minutes and checking for leaks. I seem to have an exhaust leak up at the Exhaust connects to the Turbo and I do't seem to have any spooling up of the Turbo, or if so not much. I just bought a new clamp from Ford so I'm going to change it out. I know of the leak because with the hood up and when I goose it a little I see exhaust smoke in and around the back side of the Turbo.
What I'm also wondering is ...is it possible or probable that my Catalytic Converter is plugged as well? When I drive my truck and attempt to accelerate I don't seem to get any thing from my Turbo and I push out tons of black smoke
From what I understand the exhaust is what feeds the Turbo so is it possible my exhaust leak is my problem or possibly something else??
Again, any help is greatly appreciated. My son and I did the work, now I just want to get it finished and back on the road.
Thanks in advance.
Whitey Cook
I guess I've been posting in the wrong forum!! Just to refresh, I have an F-250 2006 6.0L diesel. I had a small EGR cooler leak which contaminated my EGR valve and my Turbo. I replaced the EGR valve, EGR cooler (Dorman Lifetime warranty) and the Turbo with an OEM Garrett Turbo.
I had a problem with the small rubber hose connecting the EGR cooler to the engine but finally got it fixed by replacing the "O" rings inside and bending the little tabs up just a little.
Here's where I am now. I took the truck for a drive after following the instructions that came with the new Turbo,ie primed it and ran it at an idle for a few minutes and checking for leaks. I seem to have an exhaust leak up at the Exhaust connects to the Turbo and I do't seem to have any spooling up of the Turbo, or if so not much. I just bought a new clamp from Ford so I'm going to change it out. I know of the leak because with the hood up and when I goose it a little I see exhaust smoke in and around the back side of the Turbo.
What I'm also wondering is ...is it possible or probable that my Catalytic Converter is plugged as well? When I drive my truck and attempt to accelerate I don't seem to get any thing from my Turbo and I push out tons of black smoke
From what I understand the exhaust is what feeds the Turbo so is it possible my exhaust leak is my problem or possibly something else??
Again, any help is greatly appreciated. My son and I did the work, now I just want to get it finished and back on the road.
Thanks in advance.
Whitey Cook
#49
08-17-2011, 12:13 PM
Definitely an exhaust leak. You certainly didn't plug the cat with it parked. If it ran fine before, you put a new turbo on, now it doesn't run fine... not a plugged cat.
Typically guys will get them leaking right where the y-pipe collector attaches to the turbo.
The best thing to do in this situation is loosen every exhaust component that attaches to the turbo, and loosen the up-pipe connection to the passenger side exhaust manifold. Also loosen the turbo mount bolts. Then start by tightening the exhaust connections to the turbo. Those clamps are not enough to "draw" the parts together so to speak, so everything needs to be loose. Once those are tight, work your way down tightening as you go and end with the up-pipe to exhaust manifold connection.
However, you say you have a ton of black smoke. Is the VGT solenoid connected? Is it possible you forgot to plug that back in?
Where are you located?
Typically guys will get them leaking right where the y-pipe collector attaches to the turbo.
The best thing to do in this situation is loosen every exhaust component that attaches to the turbo, and loosen the up-pipe connection to the passenger side exhaust manifold. Also loosen the turbo mount bolts. Then start by tightening the exhaust connections to the turbo. Those clamps are not enough to "draw" the parts together so to speak, so everything needs to be loose. Once those are tight, work your way down tightening as you go and end with the up-pipe to exhaust manifold connection.
However, you say you have a ton of black smoke. Is the VGT solenoid connected? Is it possible you forgot to plug that back in?
Where are you located?
#50
08-17-2011, 03:36 PM
Whitey Cook
Thanks,
Yes, I'm reasonably certain the VGT solenoid is connected. There is only one electrical connection to the Turbo and it's located right up front easily visible. At least that's the only one I know of.
As to where I'm located, I'm outside of Oklahoma City. I'm about 15 miles from any town or city on 10.73 acres.
I don't really hear an exhaust leak but do see the smoke when I rev it a little. I just was wondering while the EGR cooler was leaking and gumming up the EGR valve and the Turbo could it possibly have been plugging the Cat as well.
While I did drive the truck waiting for the EGR cooler and Turbo to come in I did it very little and babied it as well.
Whitey Cook
As I said before I don't haul heavy loads nor really work my truck very hard on a regular basis. I never thought about loosening everything up but that makes sense. I've had to do that before on other things. Thanks for the input. We will give it a try.
Yes, I'm reasonably certain the VGT solenoid is connected. There is only one electrical connection to the Turbo and it's located right up front easily visible. At least that's the only one I know of.
As to where I'm located, I'm outside of Oklahoma City. I'm about 15 miles from any town or city on 10.73 acres.
I don't really hear an exhaust leak but do see the smoke when I rev it a little. I just was wondering while the EGR cooler was leaking and gumming up the EGR valve and the Turbo could it possibly have been plugging the Cat as well.
While I did drive the truck waiting for the EGR cooler and Turbo to come in I did it very little and babied it as well.
Whitey Cook
As I said before I don't haul heavy loads nor really work my truck very hard on a regular basis. I never thought about loosening everything up but that makes sense. I've had to do that before on other things. Thanks for the input. We will give it a try.
