So how would you ever have the EGR allowing air out rather than exhaust in?

 

Not sure. It would be a freak deal. If I remember, most of the time drive pressure is usually 2x the boost pressure until you get into real big turbos, which would be undrivable or twins. Ill see what I can find on it again. There is a pretty good thread on the dodge site i use about this. Maybe a VGT would change this, but i dont see how.

 

Yes and no - I will get you some specifics on it once I find my damn book.

The 6.4 has ALL SORTS of fail safes and engine protection strategies.

Try unplugging EGT3 and then plugging it back in, and then trying to start the truck. Puts the truck into Failure Management Effects Mode - truck thinks the EGT went out of range, now it gives the truck a 1hr cooldown period. No getting around it, either.

 

I have a 2006 6.0 f-350 turbo diesel. I have replace the following parts went bad.
turbo, high pressure fuel valve, fuel pump, ipr electronic box, both rear whell cablers,
egr switch. now from time to time the truck run rough, like it want to die until you
give it gas. what could be causing that problem?

 

Hi again,

I'm having major problems with my EGR Vavve. I was setting DTC codes 0404 & 1335. I replaced the EGR valve from Oreilly's ($219.00) After about 50 miles it started acting up again and set code 1335. I pulled the EGR vavle again and it was all sooted up again. Now again after about 50 miles it won't start and I'm pretty sure I will find the same problem. Last time I would let it sit for a while and it would start. Right now it's sitting at a gas station about 1.5 miles from home.

Any help would be appreciated. Desperate!!!

Thanks,

Whitey Cook

 

More info about the truck such as mods, miles, how it's driven, anything else been replaced at all?

My initial guess is ruptured EGR cooler just causing a whole heck of a mess inside your intake manifold. Do you have the cooler still in the truck? Does the truck smoke at all on start up or driving?

 

Thanks for the reply,

My truck is a 2006 F250 King Ranch 4WD 6.0L diesel. To my knowledge ther are no modifications except a Super Chips install by me and a Cold Air intake. I bought the truck used back in 2007 and am the second owner.

It has 135K miles on it and has been running fine. I am beginning to experience some problems however. I had the FICM rebuilt about a year ago. No prtoblems with it any more.

Before the EGR problem, if I got on it hard I would set a low turbo boost code, and there is a kind of high pitched whine. If I drive it normal, I still have the whine but I don't set any codes.

I have been losing water/antifreeze but no white smoke and no water in my oil.

I'm looking online for a EGR cooler right now.

Any other thoughts are greatly appreciated.

I'm seriously thinking about fixing it and trading it in for a Cumminins!!

Thanks, Whitey Cook

 

I like the GoGoDiesel EGR Delete Kit

 

You can delete it, or put a new one in. Either another Ford unit that will fail, or a bulletproof cooler. I went the delete route myself, you can get full deletes for under $200 on ebay now days.

Your other issues are more than likely a result of your programmer, I'd throw it in the garbage/sell on ebay/craigslist. Then if you want a tuner that wont wreck your truck, look into the SCT with custom tunes.

It is also very possible you have a sticking turbo, but since you're getting all kinds of sludge in your intake from the ruptured EGR cooler and coating that EGR valve in goo, that is hard to tell. Get that situation taken care of asap. You may not notice white smoke, and you wont have coolant in the oil from a ruptured cooler at all. That high pitch whine, does it sound like a tea kettle whistle by chance? Is your coolant bottle covered in white residue at all? Probably a multitued of things going on, but start with fixing/replacing EGR cooler and the coolant bottle cap and retest, with stock settings. get the superchips off. If it still has tea kettle after this, headgaskets are shot, which is a result of probably clogged oil cooler. Usually when the oil cooler clogs the egr cooler is the first to go. Who did the last EGR cooler fix/install/replace?

 

Thanks for the info. Yesterday I ran my truck up to normal operating temperature the shut it down and removed the EGR vavle.

I then jacked the rear end of my truck up and let it set that way for several hours. While there was some black sludge there was not much, and I never got any liquid that I could see through the EGR hole.

I don't have any white residue anywhere and when I take off I sometimes get black smoke but not white.

The EGR valve I bought from Oreilly's rattles in the top when I shake it and I can see daylight between the bottom cap and the outside when I look inside through the bottom. Since it's a lifetime warranty I'm going to replace it just for grins.

I found a lifetime warranty Dorman EGR cooler on Ebay for $250 so I may go that route.

Just curious if I decide to just fix this thing and trade it has anyone hear good or bad about the Ford 6.4L Turbo Diesel?

Thanks again,

Whitey Cook