I should be putting the ficm back in today and ill try to start it. If it doesnt run ill check the ficm voltage for sure. If thats not the problem, check fuel pressure and then.........?

Anyone done an hpop with the cab on? What kind of timeframe am i realistically looking at? Does this sound more like an hpop issue?

 

Ficm was 48v with key on during cranking dropped to 37 but then went back up to 44?

From what ive read the ficm should be ok.....at least good enough to start it.

 

Yeah that should of started, but guess that's not the problem.
If fuel pressure is good then it's the high oil pressure system, and the common problem lies usually with the IPR. But it would be helpful to see what the high oil pressure system is reading and knowing the IPr percentage, because if it is lower then 500psi and/or the IPr percentage is under 70% then it won't start. Sometimes because of the IPr being stuck open, harness problem, or its screen is full of crap. But if IPr percentage is good and the IPr screen is clean but low pressure, then the problems lies either with the high pressure lines/connection or the hpop.
If it is the pump, it could take up to 4-6hrs to do, basically it's like doing a turbo job, taking the boost tubes, intake tube, unclamp the up pipe and the y-pipe. Then out with the turbo and its pedestal then bingo you can take off the pump cover then out with the pump, there should be a YouTube video atleast.

But you got to find out what's the icp pressure and IPr percentage a reader, to know where to go. I'll see if there is away to do it without it but gadgets are supper nice for this kind of ordeal.

 

Thanks, thatd be great. Youve been real helpful.

To check fuel pressure i can just use a gauge? Where do you tap into to run the line to the gauge?

 

To check fuel pressure you ll need a special fitting unfortunitely here's link:

6.0L Fuel Pressure Test Fitting

I have my own trick by using parts that I took of an parted 6.0l engine. But it is a little more complicated and you need a flaring tool too. But if you want to do it this way just let me know, I'll go through the details.

But this is where I was saying earlier, it might be easier to pull apart the regulator and inspect it. But getting this fitting or do it my way, you can stick a real pressure gauge in the truck too.

 

Hey found how to test for icp pressure with a ohm meter here's the link, look at page 2:

https://swampsdiesel.com/files/6.0LDiagnostic.pdf

Let me know if you need help.

Actually it's a wonderful link, it give a very good idea where to look for a no start issue

 

The one link didnt work.

Can i not just run a line from the regulator off the check fitting to a mechanical gauge?

 

Hmm, which link didn't? 1st or 2nd?

So yes, the plug that is just down to the left of the regulator, is where you tie in. But Ford desides to put funny type of threads (which is a metric coarse thread that is a m8 I think, you can basically bolt a metric bolt in it). And no parts store has fitting with that thread, all is NPF and etc. So people have to buy the special adapter which ties into it the you can tie in 1/4 inch NPF fitting then to a fuel gauge. But as I said, I have another way of doing it but you got to a auto wrecker.

 

2nd link didnt work.
If i have to order that thing it could be weeks my truck is down and the snow is coming, is there a faster way?

 

Ok I'll quote the info you need to read oil pressure with an ohm meter after this reply.

So another way is getting the stuff at an auto wreck with 6.0L engines that they are parting. And a trip to a parts store

So thing you need at the auto wreck on the 6.0l engine
-the fuel line that goes to the driver side cylinder head to the fuel filter housin.
-the fitting that is on fuel housing where that fuel line ties in that goes to the cylinder head. You that fitting because it has the threads that screw into the test port, that is beside the regulator.

Before going to the part store, put the fitting in (make sure o rings are fine) then tie in the fuel line and bend it nice and slowly, so it out of the way, not hitting anything. So once bend to where you want it to go, see where you want it cut, take it off, cut it. Then now go to the parts store

At the parts store you need.
-a proper size JIC flare nut, that can go over the pipe. Or anything similar.
-if you don't have one, you need the proper flaring kit, to flare the cut end of the pipe.
-and finally a fitting goes from the jic to a 1/4 inch NPF for a fuel gauge

If you want you can make your own fuel gauge with them there.

This is how I do it.