I was towing a 19' boat and my Y pipe under degas bottle broke and about two gallons drained rapidly. I replaced the Y pipe and refilled the coolant and you could hear a kettle sound as I was filling it up. I started the truck and Parked the boat and I noticed a small amount of white smoke then there as moisture in the exhaust. I shut it down and let it cool then I cranked it up and drove less than a mile and a large cloud of white smoke came out and was steady. I shut the truck off right away and saw a lot of water draining from the exhaust and back right side of engine. Long story short I had the truck towed to my house and I replaced EGR and Oil cooler. Truck fired up after the work was done and ran about 10 min then died. Since then I have not been able to get the truck started.

-I have pulled IPR and screen had gunk on it but no metal shavings so I just replaced screen and o rings.
-only codes are glowplugs #2&#8
-FICM is connected all the way and has been tested KOEO 48.7v cranking was the same
-Fuses have been checked none blown

I have cranked on this thing for hours and the only thing I can think of is HPOP failed..

Any Help would be greatly appreciated. If anyone in the Las Vegas area and has a scanner please chime in.

 

check your low pressure oil first, make sure the little plunger in the bottom of the oil filter housing didn't get broken while it was apart for the cooler rebuild. you can pull the filter off the cap and hold the filter down and have someone crank the truck to see if the housing fill with oil. there is a plunger at bottom of housing that is supposed to be held down by the filter, it is called a drain back valve so when you do an oil change the housing empties of oil. The little plunger can get broken easy, it only has 3 tiny plastic prongs that holt it in , also if you use a oil filter that comes with its own cap like a Napa filter then alot of times those filters are too short and don't hold the plunger down properly, the only filters that should be used are the Ford filter and Fram filter/they are made by same company. make sure to use a stock cap or an aluminum one if you have a bypass system.

 

I have not tried that yet. I will do it tomorrow and let you know what I Find. So long as the filter is down the housing should stay full? I have a Motorcraft filter in there and the stock Cap..... I appreciate the ideas. If that is not the problem what would the nest step be?

 

I put a scanner on the truck and monitored IPR ICP SYNC and FMP.
ICP would not build pressure above 40 or so and IPR duty Cycle while cranking went to about 70. I check dummy plugs and Down pipes all were good. I am thinking bad IPR as the screen was covered with gunk when I removed it. If not the HPOP?

 

if all orings look good on stand pipes and rail plugs then you have issue with hpop or ipr. you can do a pressure test on the high system to determine which is bad.

 

It was the IPR. Replaced it and it fired right up. The y pipe clamp is a pia.... Does anyone know where to get a new one ?

 

F81Z 8287 EA is ford part number for clamp. Ford or international dealer can get them, you can also find them online.

 

Awesome!! I appreciate it.... Next question I have is do you Know of a place near Vegas that repairs ficms?

 

I sent mine to the circuit board medics.com that's their web address. they had it back to me in about three days. I live in SoCal and they are located in the southeast. they did a fantastic job completely checked every connection on the CB and then re-flowed the board plus put a moisture protective coating on it. complete turn around shipping and repairs was less then $399. three years ago. and I believe it has a warranty with it too.

 

for an extra $95 I would go with a Bullet Proof Diesel half shell and be done with it. Check out FICM repair, I believe their prices are better and they also replace some known bad components while they are in there.