put on the edge monitor on this weekend. not the programmer model but the insight. when the truck is all warmed up, eot vs ect is almost the same, maybe 1-2 degrees different, well within the acceptable range. while it is warming up, the numbers are all over the place. is this ok? I hope it is, then i can concentrate on some upgrades!
thanks, JR

 

It's fine when it's warming up. Idling is not where you need to check temps. Go blast up a hill and check the temps. You need temps while you're driving and running it.

 

When the time comes and your ready to dive in, do a flush, coolant filter, EGR delete and change the oil cooler all at the same time. Yes it's a big order, but the same crap has to come off to do oil cooler and egr delete. Changing to oil cooler without a filter is almost a waste of time, and a flush prior to a coolant filter is a good idea to get the goblins out before your first filter goes on. I did these in 3 three seperate steps, IT SUCKED! I should've done it all at once

 

Well said Karl.

 

i put the coolant filter on a little while ago. first upgrade, as i figured it is the most important precaution. Ordered my rev-x yesterday and going to look into getting some of the opti for the fuel system. I agree, when i start pulling this motor apart, i am changing all that stuff. figure to start collecting little by little, then go to town on it. So far, after changing out the fuel filters, cleaning the egr, putting the coolant filter on, and watching the edge, it seems to run good. see if the rev x has any effect. I want to clean that turbo too, just so i have a base line to judge evrything from. now i know that egr cooler is not clogged, all filters new, and egr clean, yada yada, clean that turbo and i should be at a good point.

i was talking to a guy yesterday, had a 2001 with 275 on it. still running good, original trans, no magor issues. he said he changed oil every 5K, and did tranny flushes religiously.
JR

 

1. A 2001 is a 7.3L with a 4R100 trans, nothing in common with our set up.
2. I really think a 5K oil change is a waste of money. I changed mine at the factory recommended 7500 for years. Then, this year, I did an oil analysis at 7K and again at 10K, BOTH said the oil was still serviceable. That's on Rotella T conventional oil, too. I intend to continue this 10K cycle until the oil analysis says otherwise. Again, I am doing a $20 O.A. at Speedco at every oil change now to verify the state of my oil.

There are videos on YouTube to clean out your turbo and how to change the oil cooler. It's pretty easy when you break down it into logical sub assemblies.

Oh yeah, while mine was apart this last time, I changed the belt as preventative maintenance.

I have posted on here AT LEAST ONCE a pretty straight fwd method of upper alternator removal using a ratcheting torque wrench to get at the tensioner. Although I now believe that removing the 2 upper shroud bolts and collapsing the shroud some would give enough space for a 1/2" ratchet (if you have a pipe you can slide over handle for extra length).

 

correct on the difference in motors. I knew that just thought it was impressive. I had the same setup before purchasing the 04 with the 6.0., and the tranny was an issue with towing. thats why i changed trucks.

So i thought some of the oil issue was not with the viscosity remaining, but with the dirtyness? I guess that is what the filters are for, but i thought i read somewhere, and i could be mistaken, it has happened, that the oil being dirty was an issue. It might be with my toyota and smog issues though.

Anyway, ordered the opti lub xpd. will see how it works.

JR

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KARLS03, i did read your post on changing the belts and using the wratchet. nice work.

 

Karl you really shouldn't be using a torque wrench for that operation bud. It could damage it internally, and throw off all of your torque values!

 

I suppose I could have mentioned that the first time I did it I set it for like 100lb/ft. The next time I used one that needs to be calibrated because the set screw in the handle came loose. I have since reverted to a Craftsman needle torque wrench for my torquing needs. Old Guys Rule!

I only used the torque wrench because I couldn't squeeze my cheater pipe in over my 1/2" drive ratchet. However, while doing the oil cooler, I found that by removing the two bolts from the shroud to the intake, you could collapse the shroud for some much needed space.