No start hot problem, Whats the best test to run.
#11
08-10-2012, 10:42 AM
Ok great info! Thanks a lot guys.
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Mdub707,
Just out of curiosity what bolts do you use now, since the vegistroke.
Also I do printing and signs for a living and I have 5 or 6 restaurants that are my customers, how do I go about getting their oil and storing it.
Could you give me some info on how to get started. Like what are the pros and cons, how do i convert the oil and any risk associated with this process.
Please keep in mind that I live an hour and a half north of Toronto, Ontario Canada.
Also have you ever heard of these guys: Diesel Secret Energy - Alternative Biofuel Biodiesel
Sorry if I'm asking this in the wrong area.
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Most guys drill out the holes too Bob. Isn't there a snap ring in there to remove so all the internals just fall out after that? I've never actually tried taking them apart.
There are also bolts on ebay that have 3 LARGE holes, much larger than the 6.4 bolts. It's what I used on mine before the vegistroke. I use them in the rear of the heads where the veggie feeds in though.
There are also bolts on ebay that have 3 LARGE holes, much larger than the 6.4 bolts. It's what I used on mine before the vegistroke. I use them in the rear of the heads where the veggie feeds in though.
Mdub707,
Just out of curiosity what bolts do you use now, since the vegistroke.
Also I do printing and signs for a living and I have 5 or 6 restaurants that are my customers, how do I go about getting their oil and storing it.
Could you give me some info on how to get started. Like what are the pros and cons, how do i convert the oil and any risk associated with this process.
Please keep in mind that I live an hour and a half north of Toronto, Ontario Canada.
Also have you ever heard of these guys: Diesel Secret Energy - Alternative Biofuel Biodiesel
Sorry if I'm asking this in the wrong area.
Last edited by nucleus; 08-10-2012 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#13
08-14-2012, 05:59 PM
Although he works on 6.0s all the time, he is by no means a 6.0 expert, but he is a very experienced mechanic, he said he noticed an unusually large amount of oil in my turbo. Is this something I should be worried about? Cause he is not exactly sure whats causing it.
#14
08-14-2012, 08:01 PM
All 6.0s have that issue, nothing to worry about, it is caused by the vent tube out of the drivers side valve cover that goes into the intake right before the turbo. There is a mod that eliminates the oil problem by relocating the vent tube toward the back of the truck. This vent serves the same purpose as the PCV valve in gas cars/positive crankcase ventilation valve.
#15
08-14-2012, 11:07 PM
All 6.0s have that issue, nothing to worry about, it is caused by the vent tube out of the drivers side valve cover that goes into the intake right before the turbo. There is a mod that eliminates the oil problem by relocating the vent tube toward the back of the truck. This vent serves the same purpose as the PCV valve in gas cars/positive crankcase ventilation valve.
#16
08-15-2012, 11:49 AM
Ok great info! Thanks a lot guys.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Mdub707,
Just out of curiosity what bolts do you use now, since the vegistroke.
Also I do printing and signs for a living and I have 5 or 6 restaurants that are my customers, how do I go about getting their oil and storing it.
Could you give me some info on how to get started. Like what are the pros and cons, how do i convert the oil and any risk associated with this process.
Please keep in mind that I live an hour and a half north of Toronto, Ontario Canada.
Also have you ever heard of these guys: Diesel Secret Energy - Alternative Biofuel Biodiesel
We also have our own alt fuel section here: Alternative Fuels , Additives , Fluids - Diesel Bombers
Read as much as you can and when you get a question about it, ask there. You can also see how I filter WVO there. There's a sticky at the top of the page in the alt fuel section that I made.
Sorry if I'm asking this in the wrong area.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Mdub707,
Just out of curiosity what bolts do you use now, since the vegistroke.
Also I do printing and signs for a living and I have 5 or 6 restaurants that are my customers, how do I go about getting their oil and storing it.
Could you give me some info on how to get started. Like what are the pros and cons, how do i convert the oil and any risk associated with this process.
Please keep in mind that I live an hour and a half north of Toronto, Ontario Canada.
Also have you ever heard of these guys: Diesel Secret Energy - Alternative Biofuel Biodiesel
We also have our own alt fuel section here: Alternative Fuels , Additives , Fluids - Diesel Bombers
Read as much as you can and when you get a question about it, ask there. You can also see how I filter WVO there. There's a sticky at the top of the page in the alt fuel section that I made.
Sorry if I'm asking this in the wrong area.
The way the vegistroke is setup, I have true check valves in the front of the heads now (the stockers leak, so we have to use an actual real check valve there) and in the rear they're an open bolt and the lines run down to a manifold with a check valve there. Basically I have the stock diesel system as normal, but now diesel runs all the way through the head, out the back and down to my manifold and hits a check valve and stops there. The veggie system feeds the opposite direction. There's a tank in the bed, veggie is pumped down to the manifold, and up to the back of the heads and hits the check valve in the front of the heads.
Collecting oil, asking how to get it, setting up collection bins, building relationships... it's all an art man. Not one way works for everyone and every restaurant. It can be tricky. Sounds like you've got a good start knowing some restaurants though.
I can answer some of these questions, but a lot of it may not even apply to you. I went with WVO over bio because bio wouldn't work for me in the winters up here, and because I can't store caustic chemicals at a house I rent. My landlord actually made sure I was only filtering WVO here, and not making bio... she wouldn't have allowed it. She doesn't care about veggie though!
when you get some time, check out: WVO Diesel Conversion | SVO Grease Conversion | Ford Vegistroke Powerstroke | Biodiesel Conversion tons of info to learn from there.
The following users liked this post:
nucleus (08-24-2012)
#17
08-18-2012, 05:23 PM
Hey bud, sorry I missed this. I think we posted at about the same time and I never saw this!
The way the vegistroke is setup, I have true check valves in the front of the heads now (the stockers leak, so we have to use an actual real check valve there) and in the rear they're an open bolt and the lines run down to a manifold with a check valve there. Basically I have the stock diesel system as normal, but now diesel runs all the way through the head, out the back and down to my manifold and hits a check valve and stops there. The veggie system feeds the opposite direction. There's a tank in the bed, veggie is pumped down to the manifold, and up to the back of the heads and hits the check valve in the front of the heads.
Collecting oil, asking how to get it, setting up collection bins, building relationships... it's all an art man. Not one way works for everyone and every restaurant. It can be tricky. Sounds like you've got a good start knowing some restaurants though.
I can answer some of these questions, but a lot of it may not even apply to you. I went with WVO over bio because bio wouldn't work for me in the winters up here, and because I can't store caustic chemicals at a house I rent. My landlord actually made sure I was only filtering WVO here, and not making bio... she wouldn't have allowed it. She doesn't care about veggie though!
when you get some time, check out: WVO Diesel Conversion | SVO Grease Conversion | Ford Vegistroke Powerstroke | Biodiesel Conversion tons of info to learn from there.
The way the vegistroke is setup, I have true check valves in the front of the heads now (the stockers leak, so we have to use an actual real check valve there) and in the rear they're an open bolt and the lines run down to a manifold with a check valve there. Basically I have the stock diesel system as normal, but now diesel runs all the way through the head, out the back and down to my manifold and hits a check valve and stops there. The veggie system feeds the opposite direction. There's a tank in the bed, veggie is pumped down to the manifold, and up to the back of the heads and hits the check valve in the front of the heads.
Collecting oil, asking how to get it, setting up collection bins, building relationships... it's all an art man. Not one way works for everyone and every restaurant. It can be tricky. Sounds like you've got a good start knowing some restaurants though.
I can answer some of these questions, but a lot of it may not even apply to you. I went with WVO over bio because bio wouldn't work for me in the winters up here, and because I can't store caustic chemicals at a house I rent. My landlord actually made sure I was only filtering WVO here, and not making bio... she wouldn't have allowed it. She doesn't care about veggie though!
when you get some time, check out: WVO Diesel Conversion | SVO Grease Conversion | Ford Vegistroke Powerstroke | Biodiesel Conversion tons of info to learn from there.
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Update on my situation.
STILL NOT FIXED!!! AAARGH!!
WHY WON'T THIS TRUCK START WHEN ITS HOT!!!???!!!!
My mechanic did the Stand Pipes and the dummy plugs,
the Stc fitting, Fuel Pressure Regulator "Blue Spring" Upgrade Kit, egr vavle and cooler delete, Updated Turbo Return Line and Updated Solid Turbo Feed Line
he said the initial Start was a little rough, but he brought it up to temperature and the truck was driving well. He turned it off waited a minute it started no problem, he waited about 3 minues it wouldn't start.
I starting to get nervous.
I hope its just the Crank Position Sensor.
Do you guys have any other suggestions.
i'm really starting to miss my truck.
Well he is going to scan it again Monday, I think he is getting tired to look at it now
Last edited by nucleus; 08-18-2012 at 05:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#18
08-19-2012, 01:53 AM
Has he done an air pressure test on it? it could still be a high pressure oil leak at an injector, it's not too common but the seal on top of injector can tear and will do the same thing, if you hear an air leak then pull the valve covers and test again to find out if it is coming from an injector. It used to be if that oring in injector was bad you had to buy a whole new injector but now you can get the kits that have the oil feed oring in it too, seen the on ebay for $8 a set.
The following users liked this post:
nucleus (08-24-2012)
#19
08-19-2012, 08:52 PM
I have a similar problem, except I couldn't start the engine at all. I got it all figured out today and got my truck to start again. Thank to bobfbigman idea!
Pull out your ICP from the truck and jug to a closest Lowe or Home Depot near your local and look around the pluming section.
There you will find 7/16 or 1/4 port to fit in ICP and rubber seals.
1/4 is little bigger thread, but if you search around, you will find 1/4 will a smaller thread that will fit in ICP port. The find a supply hose that supports up to 100+psi.
To run an air pressure test into the ICP port. I use my electrical pump for tires, it can pump up to 150psi on 12v battery. You can also use a foot pump, the output on psi depends on your weight.
Pull out your ICP from the truck and jug to a closest Lowe or Home Depot near your local and look around the pluming section.
There you will find 7/16 or 1/4 port to fit in ICP and rubber seals.
1/4 is little bigger thread, but if you search around, you will find 1/4 will a smaller thread that will fit in ICP port. The find a supply hose that supports up to 100+psi.
To run an air pressure test into the ICP port. I use my electrical pump for tires, it can pump up to 150psi on 12v battery. You can also use a foot pump, the output on psi depends on your weight.
The following users liked this post:
nucleus (08-24-2012)
#20
08-24-2012, 10:39 AM
Has he done an air pressure test on it? it could still be a high pressure oil leak at an injector, it's not too common but the seal on top of injector can tear and will do the same thing, if you hear an air leak then pull the valve covers and test again to find out if it is coming from an injector. It used to be if that oring in injector was bad you had to buy a whole new injector but now you can get the kits that have the oil feed oring in it too, seen the on ebay for $8 a set.
Well I still have the same problem he did the Air pressure test found a leak on the passenger side so he changed all the O-rings on all the injectors. he took it out for a ride, he said it ran sweet. then shut it down waited 5 minutes and it wouldn't start again.
Man I'm getting frustrated and so is he and I haven't had my truck now for over 3 weeks.
I dont know what to do next. Can anyone else think what could possibly be the problem.
Could be the crank position sensor.
