Installation of a 13" ValAir Clutch Conversion
#1
Installation of a 13" ValAir Clutch Conversion
Here are some pictures and installation info for upgrading to a 13” ValAir clutch on a 5 spd NV4500 in a 1999 Dodge 3500 2wd truck. This particular conversion kit is from Valair and includes a 13” kevlar clutch, new pressure plate and a new flywheel; Throw out bearing, Pilot bearing and alignment tool. The kit also includes pressure plate bolts a starter spacer plate and starter bolts. My experience with Valair http://valairinc.com/ showed me that they are committed to having a superior product and have outstanding customer service. Also I would like to thank Tony at http://mightydiesel.com/ for helping me decide which clutch best suited my needs and for the good deal.
Inside the truck remove the center console there are screws under the rubber cup holder mats. Slide the console and shift boot up together.
This will allow access to the screws around the next rubber boot seal (more sheet metal screws).
There are 4- 10mm bolts that hold the gear shift to the trans once they are removed the gear shifter comes out.
Remove the rubber block from on top the trans. This is to allow clearance to slide the trans out.
Remove the drive shaft 8mm bolts and 15mm on the carrier bearing. The drive shaft slides out of the transmission.
Support the transmission with a floor jack. Remove the two 15mm bolts on the rear tail shaft mount.
The cross member sits in a wedge \ / on the frame, once the 15mm bolts are removed the cross member has to slide back toward the rear before it can drop out.
The best tool for removing the bell housing bolts is a snap-on 9/16 or 14mm swivel socket, it makes the job easy.
The transmission will slide back and out I carefully balance the trans on the jack you can use a ratchet strap to hold it to the jack if you want to.
Inside the truck remove the center console there are screws under the rubber cup holder mats. Slide the console and shift boot up together.
This will allow access to the screws around the next rubber boot seal (more sheet metal screws).
There are 4- 10mm bolts that hold the gear shift to the trans once they are removed the gear shifter comes out.
Remove the rubber block from on top the trans. This is to allow clearance to slide the trans out.
Remove the drive shaft 8mm bolts and 15mm on the carrier bearing. The drive shaft slides out of the transmission.
Support the transmission with a floor jack. Remove the two 15mm bolts on the rear tail shaft mount.
The cross member sits in a wedge \ / on the frame, once the 15mm bolts are removed the cross member has to slide back toward the rear before it can drop out.
The best tool for removing the bell housing bolts is a snap-on 9/16 or 14mm swivel socket, it makes the job easy.
The transmission will slide back and out I carefully balance the trans on the jack you can use a ratchet strap to hold it to the jack if you want to.
Last edited by Jet A Fuel; 01-31-2010 at 03:51 PM.
#2
Very important: there are some items you may want to get from Dodge for this job. There is a plastic covered metal ball stud that the clutch release bearing fork pivots on, make sure it’s in good shape. There is also a small spring clip that holds the fork rod to the ball. The first clutch I put in at 120,000 miles these items were worn and allowed the fork to be damaged had to replace it. The parts are inexpensive and save a big head ache.
Here is the part # on the pivot fork.
Here’s is the new and the old woooo shiny hahahaa.
The clutch release bearing comes with the clips on it and attaches to the fork. Don’t use any grease or oil when putting the clutch in it will only do harm.
I did the starter spacer while I had the transmission adapter out for other engine maintenance. I did have to purchase a new starter because it was worn out. It had so much end play it contacted the ring gear on the flywheel with the bendix retracted.
Here is the part # on the pivot fork.
Here’s is the new and the old woooo shiny hahahaa.
The clutch release bearing comes with the clips on it and attaches to the fork. Don’t use any grease or oil when putting the clutch in it will only do harm.
I did the starter spacer while I had the transmission adapter out for other engine maintenance. I did have to purchase a new starter because it was worn out. It had so much end play it contacted the ring gear on the flywheel with the bendix retracted.
Last edited by Jet A Fuel; 01-30-2010 at 10:20 PM.
#3
You reuse the old flywheel bolts on this assembly. I use blue loctite on my flywheel bolts.I torqued the bolts to 105 ftlbs.
The clutch comes with an alignment tool to center the clutch. Clean the flywheel face with brake cleaner making sure it is free of oil and grease. Leave the alignment tool in, until the pressure plate bolts are tight then remove the tool.
The pressure plate comes with new locking bolts. Tighten the bolts around the PP evenly using a couple turn at a time crisscross pattern until bolts are seated. The torque I used is 20ft lbs (5/16 dia. bolts).
When putting the trans back into the truck the most important thing is to guide the trans into the clutch splines gently rotate the output shaft a little if needed. If you have to force anything something is wrong!! Take your time and make sure the bellhousing has an even gap as you guide the transmission onto the alignment pins. Never use the bolts to pull the trans onto the engine adapter this could cause damage to the pilot bearing or clutch disk.
The clutch is smooth and just right for my towing needs. Hope this thread helps somebody.
I would also recommend an upgraded hydraulic MC and slave cylinder here is the link on that
https://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-...hydraulic.html
The clutch comes with an alignment tool to center the clutch. Clean the flywheel face with brake cleaner making sure it is free of oil and grease. Leave the alignment tool in, until the pressure plate bolts are tight then remove the tool.
The pressure plate comes with new locking bolts. Tighten the bolts around the PP evenly using a couple turn at a time crisscross pattern until bolts are seated. The torque I used is 20ft lbs (5/16 dia. bolts).
When putting the trans back into the truck the most important thing is to guide the trans into the clutch splines gently rotate the output shaft a little if needed. If you have to force anything something is wrong!! Take your time and make sure the bellhousing has an even gap as you guide the transmission onto the alignment pins. Never use the bolts to pull the trans onto the engine adapter this could cause damage to the pilot bearing or clutch disk.
The clutch is smooth and just right for my towing needs. Hope this thread helps somebody.
I would also recommend an upgraded hydraulic MC and slave cylinder here is the link on that
https://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-...hydraulic.html
Last edited by Jet A Fuel; 01-30-2010 at 11:05 PM.
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