Here is some pictures and description of a 1999 Dodge 3500 hydraulic clutch upgrade. This particular heavy duty system is from ValAir. Thank you Tony from Mighty Diesel for the good deal and quick shipping.




One of the hardest parts was getting this #$%&#$@ little red clip out of the plug so I could unplug the clutch safety switch hahahahaa.



The master cylinder is held in place by a 1/4 turn flange on the master cylinder housing.The MC unlocks for removal by turning the housing counter clockwise, It locks in by turning clock wise as viewed from the engine compartment.





There is a clip on the clutch pedal that holds the MC pushrod its a piece of crap.A 8mm or 5/16 snap ring works much better IMO.



Once the MC is out and the two bolts are removed from the slave cylinder there are two clips that hold the fluid tube to the pinch weld on the frame.Then the whole assembly can be removed.





With the assembly out and on the bench you can disassemble the clutch safety switch it has a plastic clip with two latching fingers it slides away from the MC body.





The switch body and foam dust seal separates from the shaft and is reinstalled on the new MC in reverse order.

 

The old MC has a plastic bushing on it where it attaches to the clutch pedal, Mine was worn out and as you will see the new heavy duty MC pushrod is thicker at the end than the stock rod. So the bushing is unusable as removed because it is so wide it won't allow you to get the retaining clip on.





To correct this I used a short piece of 1/4 inch brass pipe and used a .375 reamer to open up the inside. The outside diameter of the pipe is just right for a press fit without any modification.









Here's what it looks like after its complete.



When installing the new MC into the truck a little DC4 or Vaseline on the rubber seal helps to ease installation. I finally found a use for the battery powered crescent wrench that the in laws got me for Christmas hahahahaa. There is a square section (approx 30mm in diam.) on the MC that helps to rotate the MC into its locks it rotates 1/4 turn clockwise to lock. Don't apply pressure to the nipple that feeds the MC from the reservoir its just plastic.



There is a plastic strap on the slave cylinder to retain the SC piston. This strap is Not to be removed, Once the SC is installed the plastic strap will break away under the first clutch application and it remains on the end of the push rod.





The studs came out during removal so I used some blue loctite on installation to hold them in.



This system came fully bled and there is normally no reason to bleed the system just install the whole thing as one assembly. The only thing left is to bolt on the plastic reservoir it just has two 10mm headed sheet metal screws. There is an adjustment on the MC pushrod end, in most cases it should be screwed all the way in and lock the jam nut. I hope this helps someone out I think it is a really good system and a Must if running a high performance pressure plate/clutch.

 

good job kevin

 

Thanks Tony it was a very easy installation even in the cold hahahaha.

 

ya they aint to bad to install, where did you mount your resovoir?

 

This system used the same style reservoir here's a pic.

 

Just a FYI. Our Hydraulic units come with new clips, new bushings, new switch and has a metal braided line from the master to the slave...no plastic.

Peter

 

HI DEAR: IM HAVE A 98.5 DODGE RAM 3500 2WD WITH NV 4500 5 SPEED W/ CUMMINS 5.9L 24V ,IM HAD TROUBLE WHIT MY SECOND OEM HYDRAULIC CLUTCH IN THE LAST 2 YEARS. I NEED BUY A HD HYDRAULC CLUTCH UPGRADE FROM VAL AIR , ISEE ALL YOUR PICTS AND IS A VERY GOOD KIT WITH A EASY INSTALLATION . WHERE YOU BUY THIS KIT / IS IN MIGHTYDIESEL , IM TRYING TO SEE THE PRODUCT FOR BUY AND IS IMPOSSIBLE, YOU CONTACT THIS GUYS BY PHONE ? THANKS NESTOR