i would say the Common Rail years up to 07.5 would be your best bet, they offer the nicest ride for a dodge. The biggest complaints for most Dodges are the auto transmissions, the front ends, and just the overall ride. They have addressed most of these issues in the newer years IMO, the rides are alot smoother, the front ends are better and the tranny's are better the problem with stickin an auto behind a cummins is that they have such low end grunt it just trashes the auto when you start to BOMB them, the new ones are supposed be alot better, i would get one with a 6 spd. You put a good clutch on a NV5600 and you should be fine up to like 500-600 hp maybe more.

Yes the cummins is by far the stoutest engine of the big three unless you are getting into full blown pulling or racing you can get massive power from stock internals other than a good set of head studs. the 7.3 powerstrokes are the next to strongest behind the cummins IMO.

So do your research buy from a good dealership and get one that hasnt been modded or has the signs of being modded. Thats so you know what the truck has been thru and is in good shape externally and internally. Look for stuff like aftermarket u-joints, just new parts that wouldnt necessarily wear out from just normal operation taking into account the amount of mileage on the truck.

There ya go that should help i hope

 

Thanks for the help. Thats the kind of info i was looking for.

 

Lot of pros like they have said, 6 cylinders means fewer parts to buy....I am getting about 20mpg in mine, only mod is AFE intake. I drive mostly highway

 

CONS CONS CONS CONS there are no cons Only small obstacles

 

As for the Dodge truck itself, Chevy Guys and Ford Guys will tell you they suck all day long, and PARTS on them do... Just like PARTS on Fords and Chevy's suck, nature of mass production and bean counters at the head office.

Front ends get rough on 2nd gens, mostly because of crappy track bars. Throw a Don Thuren bar on there and you're set for a long time, plus its rebuildable. 3rd Gnes can have the same problem, same solution usually fixes it.

Transmissions always have a bad rap in the Dodges, and its because for a long time it was true, the 727 was modified into the 47RH and then the RE, which was okay behind a stock Cummins, but turn it up any more than a few ponies and the low end grunt rips them apart. A $5000 billet built tranny is a permanent solution. The 48RE's are much much better, even if you tow heavy, the thing is stout behind a stock Cummins. Turn it up and your gonna blow it without a billet converter and a shift kit, but a Ford or Chevy will blow the trans too if you put the low end grunt of the I6 in front of them. The new 68RE seems to be real stout, and the AISIN is tough as nails.

The manual tranny's are pretty much bulletproof to 500HP. More than that and you need some upgrades. The G56 is the strongest IMO, but parts are expensive.

If you want a cushy ride, either get a Cadillac, or shell out the dough for a new suspension from KORE, Carli, or Lorenze. BTW, a set of Bilstein shocks will go a long way to make the ride more livable.

 

watch how much towing was done with the truck if it has a stock trans. the 47re is easy to distroy.

 

X2 for that one

 

The Cummins is a great motor really strong but it can only be as strong and the tranny behind it. If you get the six speed you'll be great if you get the auto and do a lot of towing you may have issues. But all three diesels have there pros and cons just the way they are.

 

JP, when you ask which dodge/cummins would be best for you...what do you want from your truck and how much do you want to spend?

I think I'd honestly rather have a d'max for an around town, daily driver. but if you're going to turn it up, tow and really use the 4x4 or otherwise beat the **** out of a truck, I think a dodge/cummins is the way to go.

being that you're used to the duramax, I would think an 03+ common rail would better suit you and the 48re is a big improvement over the 47re; but still needs a converter/valve body if you're going to play.

2nd or 3rd gen, a Thuren track bar and bilstein shocks should be the absolute first thing done, IMO. if you want to make everything nice and tight, a steering stabilizer and poly bushings are the next mods. Thuren will get you set up with a perfect rate spring, too, if you're looking for a little more travel/smoother ride.

1st gen - rugged, simple, tough, relatively cheap, rough...it's an all out work truck.
2nd gen 12v- ultimate for BOMBing on a budget, keeping things simple and being able to wrench on it yourself.
2nd gen 24v- I'm not a fan. our '00 has definitely served its' purpose but I'm just not sold on it, least reliable of all of our trucks.
3rd gen- fast, quiet, better auto, 'slightly' lower mileage (but a lot more power available), nicer interior, full four doors, adjustable power levels on the run. better steering/susp(still in need of Thuren's help.)

I've worked on A LOT of domestic vehicles and really, I'm sick of every single one of them that was built after 1975. The 'dodge falling apart around the engine' is the biggest pile of BS next to the 'ford owns cummins' thing that just won't die. I work on, or have Brown's Diesel, work on all 8 of my family's dodge diesels, one of EVERY generation, most of which have A LOT of hard, abusive miles on them and I'm really happy with them all.

 

i am not an expert on anyone type of dodge truck. I have on the other hand spent my share of time in an 07 6.7L cummins. i would go to the newer dodge if i had the chance to get one over anyother truck on the market. yet i have had some problems with them. the 06 i had before i got the 07 had injector problems since the new fuel and ended up snapping a rod. so look out for that. its the only con i have ever seen in a cummins