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Install/Remove a 48RE

 
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 10:03 AM
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Default Install/Remove a 48RE

Hello everyone, I took the time to take some pictures of my transmission being installed by Sasquatch Diesel. AKA Corey. I hope this helps and everyone gets a better understanding of how to remove your 48re. This truck we did it on is a 06.
please advise you can go really in any particular order after the drive shafts are off but basically i would follow the pro's...
You will need a special tool for this job.its a barring tool. its a key way that can rotate the engine by adapting it on your ratchet to turn the motor.
Well here it goes......

1st. We disconnected the battery's and put the truck in neutral. Then we lifted the truck in the air with the lift. Now i know we all don't have access to lifts so i would recommend putting the truck on a level surface and chocking off the wheels. while the truck is in Neutral.
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2. You would need to start taking off the front/rear drive shafts by undoing the 4 bolts from the axles. Then sliding the axles out from the Transfer case.
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3. Next is to Unclip all harness, there all different so it would be easy to hook them up again when we go for the install. also undo the shift levers and oil dipstick tube.
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4. Next is to unbolt the transfer/trans from the cross member. 4 bolts then taking off the cross member off the frame. also 4 bolts. I would recommend structuring the trans/transfer case at this point with a jack.
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5. Next would be to unbolt the flex plate cover.
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6. what we did next was drain the fluid from the transmission by undoing the pan bolts. (drained for shipping purposes)
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7. Now we start on unbolting the Torque Converter from the flew plate. you will need a special key way for this. IF no key way, then you can rotate motor but please be careful not to start the engine. i would recommend using the key way for this, turning the motor by ignition key is a bad idea. Key way location is located in front of the trans on the passenger side. remove the 2 bolt cover for access.
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8. Undo the 2 fluid lines
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9. Next is unbolting the trans from the motor. please make sure your trans jack is on and secured. once unbolted you should be set free from the vehicle. pull back on the trans to separate from the truck.
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Last edited by CumminsTurbo22; Dec 23, 2008 at 10:06 AM.
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 10:04 AM
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10. Once down move to a safe zone with the trans and transfer case:hehe:
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all gone!
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11. If your not reinstalling a new flew plate for your high Hp demands. then inspect your existing flexplate for any chips or if its warped.
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This Torque Converter weighs a ton!
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12. Now its time to unbolt the 6 nuts from the transfer case to the transmission. we had a little problem taking it off because of the corrosion that was built up inside. but nothing can stop us now!
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13. once separated inspected for any unusual wear and tear.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 10:05 AM
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14. Next is to anti-seize the inside of the transfer case in case trans/transfer case needs to come off in the future. also use trans lube and coat shaft on the transfer case and trans spline.
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15. now its time to put the new trans in. provided by Goerend Transmissions. Now the install is completely backwards from here on out. Depending on what your doing we had to switch out the control solenoid and put it on the new trans.
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Corey rolling trans back to truck.
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16. Now its time to raise the drive line back into the truck.
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after reconnecting the trans to the truck with the bolts from the bell housing and bolt for the torque converter, we can let the trans jack be let down and the cross member being put back in and bolting it down. with connecting all wire harness and dont forgot your oil fill tube, we can now go back to the drive shafts and reinstall them.
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Dont forget your flex plate Cover!
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after lowering down the truck with it still in Neutral we filled the trans up with 7-8 quarts of atf fluid. make sure its atf+4 or if its not use the additive Friction Modifier Goerend supplies.
we started the truck with the 7-8 quarts of oil in the transmission and by still leaving it in neutral we filled the trans up with more fluid. then by going through all the gears on the trans including park several times, check again to make sure fluid is still reading full on the dipstick.
make sure all gears work before leaving driveway/parking lot.
Then hit the road jack! and see how she handles!
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I hope this write up was a good explanation. I hope you have a better understanding on how to remove your transmission. This install will take about a day. so make sure if your outside its a beautiful day!
Thanks everyone and Corey at Sasquatch Diesel.

Write up by: Nick Terzo
Installer and supplier: Corey at Sasquatch Diesel
 
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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Good right up. I reckon it would be a good idea to replace the rear main seal while it was wide open? Even if it didn't need to be replaced?
 
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by wildbill
Good right up. I reckon it would be a good idea to replace the rear main seal while it was wide open? Even if it didn't need to be replaced?
yeah ya should.... but it was in great shape
 
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 12:24 PM
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I had a very large freeze plug blow out right above where the 48re bolts up to the back of the engine. I had to remove the trans just to get to it to replace it!
 
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragon Flow Diesel 128
I had a very large freeze plug blow out right above where the 48re bolts up to the back of the engine. I had to remove the trans just to get to it to replace it!
wow, i would of been cussin the whole way through, but you do what ya gotta do!
 
Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:46 PM
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Great write up. I've done quite a few myself and find it easier to remove the Tcase while still in the truck.
Don't need a barring tool either. Just a large screw driver or pry bar to rotate the flywheel.
4' rachet extensions make it a lot easier too.
 
 
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