Most of the turbos on Ebay are china clones, I've never had one but my local turbo repair shop says they are junk. The turbos I've run came from the local pull a part type places, we have several around here. Jester is correct, the turbos are off VW Passat's, I have on off a jetta with the big wrapping cold side it would be hard to mount up.

 

How much oil is needed in the pan? Quite a difference between these 2.
Is the level in all the pans above the gasket? That seems like a leak waiting to happen.

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When machining the Kubota flywheel cover for the block side of the 2 piece adapters is the function of that just to gain depth? On FTE's photo it appears that the machining is just starting to touch the inner mounting holes. See it here:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...n-dscf3149.jpg

Is my thinking correct here?? The following is a question, not a statement of fact??
If the Kubota housing wasn't machined to at least this "thinness" the bolts holding the outer adapter plate on top the Kubota inner would distort the outer plate by drawing it tight to the inner. The outer plate would be cupped by the bolt tension on the inner holes. His plate is labeled at .5". If my reasoning is correct that would be the max thickness allowable for the part.
I can't get the wording right. Hope you understand my question.
On this adapter the outer plate, furthest from the motor, carries the load.

On "usedkubotaman's" adapter using 2 plates, not the machined Kubota flywheel cover, the inner plate thickness can be adjusted. Any plate would be the same thickness throughout. There would never be an issue of warping the outer plate. On this adapter the inner plate, next to the block, carries the load. See it here:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/attach...n-img_6351.jpg

 

I would not want to have less than 6 quarts of oil. The oil level being above the pan gasket does not cause any issues, no leaks.

I'm not sure on the machining the flywheel cover, maybe FTE will jump in here.

My two piece adapter plate allows you to adjust the depth with either plate, you just need to know where your Kubota flywheel vs. the OEM flywheel.

 

I made my pan to hold as much as I could given the space I was working with, it just happens to be the same volume as the Carrier pan without the level being above the gasket. On the cover thickness, yes your correct I machined it to 1/2 in thick so as not to have any distortion, then made up the total with the steel. As kubotaman says the final fit is made with the flywheel thickness.

 

Just wanted to stop in and say thank you all. The Kubota information in here is the best I have found on the web. I wonder if it would fit in a Vega without needing a cowl hood... anyway, Thank You.

 

Kubota V2203 dimensions are shown on these 2 drawings. Looks like you have to copy and paste for the following to work.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzI5WDMyNA==/$T2eC16ZHJG8E9nyfoTqqBQ6uQyffk!~~60_12.JPG

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzMyWDIxMQ==/$T2eC16dHJGwE9n)yUstuBQ6uQzrqFw~~60_12.JPG

I bought a new Vega in 1973. That is a long time ago so my memory is fuzzy. I don't think it will fit under a non-cowl hood. The crank center to pan bottom height will be a problem also. My father also had one. His front suspension crushed with the aluminum 4 cyl weight. They do put BBC motors in them for racing, but not for daily drivers. The SBC cars were really popular. I like the body style, and they look good with short cowl hoods.

 

Here are few pics of my engine build, just some different shots of miscellaneous parts. The spring that's already in place keeps the rack pulled forward for starting, the cut spring is how I modify the springs to get more RPM's. The piston/rod pics show how difficult it would be to create an oil passage for top end squirters, the rods are very thin. Someone was talking or wanting to know how to drill the injector side dip stick port, that's how you do it. Homedepot sells the long drill bits. Finally my new heater hose port, just making sure I will have plenty of heat.

 

good pics. Thanks for posting. Next time I will get the big long drill. Is your cut spring a stock Kubota spring? Do you have any pics of the finished spring? What do you do for the cut end? bend it into a loop?

 

I can take one and post it. You take needle nose and regular pliers and bend the last ring back out to create the hook. The spring is stiff, it takes an few minute of playing with it to get it bent correctly.

It's a stock spring from the Carrier units.

 

Is that the stock Kubota high rpm spring? I remember you posted the part # a long time ago.