Have you had the injector pump out? There is a small spring inside that keeps the rack pulled forward, that's the only other thing I can think of. BUT, I still think it's probably a fuel issue.

 

Well, I called fte and spoke with him. His first question was whether I was sure the red bleeder on the side of.the injection pump was closed. He.said he'd seen that valve open causing those symptoms. I gotta check that in the morning. The motor actually fell over during the build and broke that valve off so I'm not sure what position its in. I'm probably just gonna plug it.

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I haven't had it out. Had it open to put a stiffer spring in. I forgot to mention when driving it acts a little funny. Not bad but noticeable. Ill be cruising and it'll act like the fueling is changing, you can actually hear the whine of the Turbo change like you're giving it a little more gas then a little less

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And that reminds me, before I replaced.that spring I can't really remember.if the throttle.always.returned to the idle stop screw but I thought it did. After putting the stiffer spring I noticed it doesn't go all the way to idle when the engine is off. But it returns just fine when running.

 

Got a question for you usedkubotaman, since you seem to be the resident expert on the injection pumps. Is there any way to override the governor completely? I don't like it pushing back when I get up on speed and I don't think my cruise control is powerful enough to overcome it and maintain speed, hope to have it working shortly. I can use the high speed.stop to limit rpms so I don't hurt the motor. I want it to act like a regular throttle. And I still haven't solved the.idle issue. Very annoying. Motor runs great otherwise

 

You can disable the governor but it'll be a pretty big job. You would need to pull the engines front cover, the injection pump itself, and the injection pump camshaft. The governor works by slinging 6 ***** out against a bowl shaped plate, it then pushes the fueling rack back at high RPM's. You can remove the *****, but I've never tried this and I'm not sure how the engine would react not having a governor. Before I did all that I think I would build a cam system in your throttle linkage to create leverage, FTE has this type of setup, he can probably shoot you a pic of it.

 

When I bought my 2203 from Aaron in Deer Lodge, he mentioned removing some of the ball bearings in the governor. It would reduce the centrifugal force on the governor and raise the rpm limit. I don't recall whether he said this is a straightforward job.

I, too, would like to ease the force at the gas pedal. I have seen FTEs throttle linkage (it's on page 5 of this thread), but I don't see how force is multiplied. It looks like the arms are the same length.

On my engine, I had to lengthen the throttle arm on the Kubota so that travel matched that of the gas pedal. I will try to get some pictures.

 

I already have a similar.setup to fte.. I just wanted to make it act like a normal throttle.if possible

 

Hey guys, I just got lucky with my linkage, it was the first take and it feels just like the stock gasser throttle and only "pushes" back at me when I spin it over it's cruising rpm.

 

Here's some pics of the injector cam shaft/governor assembly.

 

Quick question. Is there a possibility that if the spring I used in the pump was a little too short that it would make the idle act up?

 

So guys got my engine and am doing a bit of clean-up before install. Just a thought for conversation: My exhaust manifold is in poor shape at best, anyone thought about making a custom manifold? It would also give the option to change the position of the turbo flange. Tell me what y'all think?