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86 Cherokee OM617/700R4/NP231

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  #11  
Old 03-04-2010, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by FTE
I am using 3/16 steel, that is the space I needed to make up for proper t-conv clearance so steel was the only option for strength. I ended up not having to alter the stock flywheel cover, so this will be a total no-mod adapter. In other words GM from the plate back and Benz from the plate foreward. BTW how did you get the proper center line on your plate?

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Yea, I plan on doing alot of tire swaps till I find the "sweet spot". I think the lock-up will make the difference on how it will perform. How far along are you?
I started with a square plate. Then I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of it. I had the trans with the converter in it sitting on the tailshaft. I laid the plate on the trans bellhousing and lined up the 1/4" hole with the center of the torque converter. (it had a lathe centering dent). Once it was lined up, I marked the bellhousing holes with a pencil. Then I drilled the bellhousing holes. I did the same with the back of the engine. Lined up the hole in the plate with the center of the crankshaft. Once all the holes were drilled, I cut the center of the plate out. I checked it several times during the process, it was right on the money. I drilled the holes just big enough for the bolt diameter, so it would not move much.

John
 

Last edited by Benzer1; 03-04-2010 at 06:56 AM.
  #12  
Old 03-04-2010, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by FTE
...How far along are you?
Not nearly as far as I'd like to be.

I've finished the trackbar (a.k.a. panhard rod) bracket, and reinforcing the frame where the motor mounts bolt in.

I'll be putting the finishing touches on my cross member/motor mount/engine cradle assembly this weekend.

I have about half of the custom exhaust manifold pieces made, and finishing them and getting the maifolds welded up will be next on the list - followed closely by the custom Y-pipe for the exhaust.

Then comes all the "little" stuff. Adapting the tranny mount, plumbing the vacuum stuff, doing the electrical, finishing the cooling system, modifying the rear driveline (if necessary), shifter for the tranny, etc., etc., etc.

Once she's road-worthy and I get to drive it and enjoy my work for a little while, then I'll be adding the turbo...
 

Last edited by CheaperJeeper; 03-04-2010 at 01:21 PM.
  #13  
Old 03-04-2010, 02:31 PM
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Was reading this thread and there are a few optical tachs out there that count flywheel teeth and Dakato Digital also has some items that may help as for as tachs or concerned . I used some of there other items to make a mechanical speedo drive run a digital dash on another conversion i did .
 
  #14  
Old 03-04-2010, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cbum
Was reading this thread and there are a few optical tachs out there that count flywheel teeth and Dakato Digital also has some items that may help as for as tachs or concerned . I used some of there other items to make a mechanical speedo drive run a digital dash on another conversion i did .
I like the idea of the Dakota Digital box, but I've heard it's pretty slow to respond. Any info on opticals would be greatly appreciated...
 
  #15  
Old 03-04-2010, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Benzer1
I started with a square plate. Then I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of it. I had the trans with the converter in it sitting on the tailshaft. I laid the plate on the trans bellhousing and lined up the 1/4" hole with the center of the torque converter. (it had a lathe centering dent). Once it was lined up, I marked the bellhousing holes with a pencil. Then I drilled the bellhousing holes. I did the same with the back of the engine. Lined up the hole in the plate with the center of the crankshaft. Once all the holes were drilled, I cut the center of the plate out. I checked it several times during the process, it was right on the money. I drilled the holes just big enough for the bolt diameter, so it would not move much.

John
The way I did it was to use a stick bell, fab a pilot using plate with pipe welded to it then trued up on the tathe. It worked great! How much did you have to lift your jeep? I set the motor in to fabb mounts and it looks like it needs some. I saved the front coils from the benz, they look about the same size only larger wire.
 
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  #16  
Old 03-04-2010, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CheaperJeeper
Not nearly as far as I'd like to be.

I've finished the trackbar (a.k.a. panhard rod) bracket, and reinforcing the frame where the motor mounts bolt in.

I'll be putting the finishing touches on my cross member/motor mount/engine cradle assembly this weekend.

I have about half of the custom exhaust manifold pieces made, and finishing them and getting the maifolds welded up will be next on the list - followed closely by the custom Y-pipe for the exhaust.

Then comes all the "little" stuff. Adapting the tranny mount, plumbing the vacuum stuff, doing the electrical, finishing the cooling system, modifying the rear driveline (if necessary), shifter for the tranny, etc., etc., etc.

Once she's road-worthy and I get to drive it and enjoy my work for a little while, then I'll be adding the turbo...
Cool, how bout some pics! I'd like to see something different. Did you have to do a lift? Looks like I will be doing some major mods to get the steering issues sorted out.
 
  #17  
Old 03-04-2010, 09:57 PM
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I haven't taken many pictures yet, but I will be on Saturday. Stay tuned!

I'm going to build it with a removable Y-pipe that can be easily swapped for one that brings the exhaust from both sides up behind the motor - between it and the firewall - so that I can easily install the turbo later.

Got it all planned out...
 
  #18  
Old 03-05-2010, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by FTE
The way I did it was to use a stick bell, fab a pilot using plate with pipe welded to it then trued up on the tathe. It worked great! How much did you have to lift your jeep? I set the motor in to fabb mounts and it looks like it needs some. I saved the front coils from the benz, they look about the same size only larger wire.
I did not lift the Jeep. The engine sits high in the engine bay. It's going to need a hood scoop to clear but the hood does close,and the axle would hit the bump stops before it hit the oil pan.

John
 
  #19  
Old 03-05-2010, 07:15 AM
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I will try and find it again but for now look up tiny tach and this tach

2-1/16" 4K Universal Electronic Tachometer

http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-037.pdf
 

Last edited by Cbum; 03-05-2010 at 07:20 AM.
  #20  
Old 03-05-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Cbum
I will try and find it again but for now look up tiny tach and this tach

2-1/16" 4K Universal Electronic Tachometer

http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-037.pdf
Good info Cbum - thanks...
 


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