It's not idling too fast, any lower is off. You have to remember the Benz t/c is way smaller and real loose. I wasn't saying it was a problem, as the brakes hold just fine, but just noting for others wanting to use this trans that a higher stall than the one I used may work a little better.

Well I have 300mi or so on the new motor swap and I am still wondering what the box on the side of the IP is or controlls. I am thinking that it is in some way limiting fuel, cause I have turned the ALDA all the way and still no hint of smoke what so ever no matter how I mash on it. Not even any sign of exhaust at all, I wiped clean the chrome ex tip and no soot at all. The old motor would show a little smoke when I mashed on it and the ex tip had a little soot on the edge. I think the box might limit rack movement untill coolant temps get warm enough and then a signal was sent from the computer box. I checked the wires with on ohm meter thinking it was some sort of a reostat or something but no change in ohms when moving the throttle. I am almost at the point of swapping out IP's. Here's some pics

The cable from that box, does it go to a "bullet" shaped connector about 1/2" diameter and an inch and a half long or so - mounted on the firewall about even with the valve cover? If so, that isn't your problem - its only there to send a signal to the EGR computer.

Have you checked all the pressure & vacuum lines to the IP and alda etc.?

Do you have the overboost solenoid still connected? If so, they can sometimes fail, and the ALDA won't get the boost signal. Just a thought........ Try bypassing it if it's still hooked up

John

Cheeper, yea thats the connector and I have checked all the lines. If was there to send a signal, why didn't I get any change in a reading when the throttle was moved? John, no overboost and it is getting 10lbs of boost. It runs just fine off the line, plenty of low end and seems just like the old motor, but acts like it lacts power at the upper end. The only thing different is the motor, I swaped all the old motors int & ex mans and turbo. The new motor seemed to run alot better in the Benz, so you can see why I am looking at that as a possible reason. The old motor even with low compression on #5 had more power pulling a hill on I5 than this motor, so I thought the IP has to be the difference, nothing else has changed. Don't get me wrong, it drives fine but I was expecting more of a difference with a healthy motor. Also the last tank, the mpg's are down as well! Just the oppsite I was hoping for:s:

Dunno for sure - never said I knew how it works, just what its for. I belong to several MB diesel sites and that's the info I got from them. I left it unplugged on my 84 CD when I swapped in the motor from an 85 SDL.

Hey thanks, I wasn't aware that you had the same cali motor, I guess I'll feel better about ignoring it! I think my next move will be to swap out the injectors that I rebuilt with new tips and check the timing. I am in the process of building a new air cleaner/intake, I am not happy with the ricer cone filter. BTW, how are you coming along with your jeep?

No problem. If you can, put the stock air cleaner back on. Supposedly a guy on one of my favorite MB sites bench flow tested the stock setup at over 350 CFM - more that the motor can actually use...

Getting there. I've got my oil and tranny coolers and lines almost finished. I got the PS hose ends I need all cleaned up and ready to take down to the local hose & fitting shop to have a custom length high pressure side hose made. Started on the fuel system plumbing tonight.
The biggest jobs left to be done are finishing the wiring, finishing the drivelines, and putting the front axle back under it. Of those, the wiring is going to be the biggest job. Other than that there are about a dozen other little jobs to button up and it should be done.

I wish i would have known about stock air filter CFM i have a cone style ricer on my conversion, i hope i saved the "U" shaped elbow? :dang: I have some wiring charts of glow relay and alternator if it will help?

Thanks for the offer man. I actually have both of the factory service manuals for both the
Jeep AND the Cutlass Ciera that the motor came out of, so I'm all set that way. I don't plan on using the stock glow system anyhow (I don't even have the controller). I'm just going to rig a manual pushbutton to the relay instead.

It's just that wiring is such a tedious job.