IIRC the 2wds dont have a problem because there isnt a differential under there. but the 4wds can cause a problem. but like stated earlier a small lift will cure that problem. from what ive heard it isnt the crossmember that gets in the way its more the diff than anything. i was just outside looking at the 87 f250 4wd i have and the cummins sittin in the garage, and if it fit, it would be close, the oil pans on those are just so big

 

so i would need a small body lift or suspension lift?

 

IF you do need one, it would be suspension. a body lift will not raise the frame off of the differential. but try and it in there first to see what kind of clearance problems you will or will not have

 

OK IM GONNA TRY TO FIND A SOLID AXLE ANYWAY CAUSE IVE BEEN WANTING ONE ANYWAY

 

SAS are fun

 

Most people do sas because the TTB are absolute crap. the TTB can barely handle the 351 my Bronco has and the added weight of the cummins will crush it. you will have to do alignments like crazy. the TTB is just a bad idea that Ford had.

I would do a sas or maybe even make the donor truck's frame fit the cab of your truck. that might be easier. Or that is what I am going to do when the Bronco project gets started.

 

well from what ive heard being mine is a 250 i can get a solid axle out of a 350 and it will mostly bolt right up

 

I believe from what I have read that is the case in most body style years

 

I disagree. I've seen stock TTB setups stand up to 460cid engines and 44" TSL's. The only real "bad" part about TTB suspensions is that they have a nasty habit of sagging springs after a while and cause all sorts of annoying tire wear issues. Beyond that, I've actually had fairly decent luck with durability. It was a better idea at the time than the CV style IFS setups; less parts and people were more familiar with u-joints. Just my two cents... I still prefer a Dana 60 though...

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As long as spring pad distance is the same. Keep in mind that a Dana 60 out of a '79 won't work because of the narrow pad distance. But a Dana 60, kingpin or balljoint, of roughly the same year model as the truck it's going into should bolt right up to most F-250 TTB setups. You'll need to fab a Panhard rod setup though, or your side-to-side steering will shift the axle around...

 

That also applies to the '78 front D60, as both of those are what most full-size Jeep guys use as an upgrade. Due to the narrow perch width, they are bolt-in for the old waggys.