Cherokee OM617 Swap
Diesel Wrench
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 730
Likes: 33
From: Vancouver Wa
I dropped the trans and transfer case out of the Jeep tonight. No damage to the blocks I welded on to the torque converter. No damage to the flexplate or centering bushing. The problem must be inside the torque converter. I fired up the engine without the trans to make sure it wasn't the engine. The engine runs strong, no noises. I think it's time for a 700R4!!
Thread Starter
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
I wonder if the t-conv got warped/damaged with all the welding? I'm pretty sure they do all the welding of the lugs before they put it together. I think you will be happyer anyway with the 700r4. I know before I tore my jeep apart, that trans needed 1 more gear. Glad to see you haven't given up!
John
Diesel Wrench
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 730
Likes: 33
From: Vancouver Wa
You might be right. I was careful to weld in short bursts so I did not heat the TC up too much, but you never know. Something is definitely rattling around in the TC, probably one of the fins broke off or something. I agree, the fourth gear will probably help quite a bit, she revved pretty high above 45 MPH. But that might have been the TC slipping too. The kit from Bendtsen's lets you choose the stall speed. I will probably keep it low to help with MPG's. I found a trans/transfer case and driveshafts at a local junkyard, they want $475 for the whole mess. I will probably need the drive shafts, it looks like the blazer transfer cases have a slip yoke on the output, mine has the slip yoke in the middle of the rear driveshaft.
John
John
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Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Yea, the drivelines are different. I think the combo is a little longer too, but should fit. I havent checked the crossmember yet, that will come after I get the motor set. There is a tag/sticker on the GM t-conv that has a code. Mine showes it has a 1650 stall, should be about right I guess. Is the trans good to go or do you have to rebuild?
John
Diesel Wrench
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 730
Likes: 33
From: Vancouver Wa
The parts are all used but good to go. With a 30 day warranty. I will have to figure out how to control the TC lockup. Probably with a toggle switch for now. Later, maybe rig up a controller of some kind. The crossmember and shift linkages are the only other things that will need modification. The trans will sit farther forward too, the factory engine plate on the Benz is 1 1/4" thick. Then I have a 1/4" plate bolted to that. The adapter plate in the kit is 1", so the trans/transfer case will be 1/2" farther forward.
John
John
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 274
Likes: 7
From: Kent, WA
The problem with a toggle switch is you can eaily forget to turn it off and I think that if you leave it turned on, your torque converter will stay locked until you do - possibly causing damage. Here's a simple way to rig up the lockup controller with a push-button instead of a toggle switch.
The push button will energize a relay to supply power to it. From the working side of the relay you feed a wire (let's call that wire the "latch wire") back to the relay coil so that once you hit the pushbutton and energize the output of the relay, it supplies power back to the coil to make the relay stay closed. This is called a "self latching" relay circuit.
You put a normally closed switch inline in the "latch wire" and mount it where it can be operated (opened) by your brake pedal. That way, when you hit the brake it de-energizes the coil to the relay and unlocks the torque converter.
With this simple controller you just hit the button to lock it up and tap the brakes to unlock it. All it takes is a relay, a momentary pushbutton, an NC switch, and some wire - all of which can be picked up at Radio Shack for under $15. If you later want to make it automatic, all you have to do is replace the pushbutton with an adjustable Hobbs pressure switch screwed into the 3rd gear pressure port on the side of the tranny.
The push button will energize a relay to supply power to it. From the working side of the relay you feed a wire (let's call that wire the "latch wire") back to the relay coil so that once you hit the pushbutton and energize the output of the relay, it supplies power back to the coil to make the relay stay closed. This is called a "self latching" relay circuit.
You put a normally closed switch inline in the "latch wire" and mount it where it can be operated (opened) by your brake pedal. That way, when you hit the brake it de-energizes the coil to the relay and unlocks the torque converter.
With this simple controller you just hit the button to lock it up and tap the brakes to unlock it. All it takes is a relay, a momentary pushbutton, an NC switch, and some wire - all of which can be picked up at Radio Shack for under $15. If you later want to make it automatic, all you have to do is replace the pushbutton with an adjustable Hobbs pressure switch screwed into the 3rd gear pressure port on the side of the tranny.
Thread Starter
|
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
The problem with a toggle switch is you can eaily forget to turn it off and I think that if you leave it turned on, your torque converter will stay locked until you do - possibly causing damage. Here's a simple way to rig up the lockup controller with a push-button instead of a toggle switch.
The push button will energize a relay to supply power to it. From the working side of the relay you feed a wire (let's call that wire the "latch wire") back to the relay coil so that once you hit the pushbutton and energize the output of the relay, it supplies power back to the coil to make the relay stay closed. This is called a "self latching" relay circuit.
You put a normally closed switch inline in the "latch wire" and mount it where it can be operated (opened) by your brake pedal. That way, when you hit the brake it de-energizes the coil to the relay and unlocks the torque converter.
With this simple controller you just hit the button to lock it up and tap the brakes to unlock it. All it takes is a relay, a momentary pushbutton, an NC switch, and some wire - all of which can be picked up at Radio Shack for under $15. If you later want to make it automatic, all you have to do is replace the pushbutton with an adjustable Hobbs pressure switch screwed into the 3rd gear pressure port on the side of the tranny.
The push button will energize a relay to supply power to it. From the working side of the relay you feed a wire (let's call that wire the "latch wire") back to the relay coil so that once you hit the pushbutton and energize the output of the relay, it supplies power back to the coil to make the relay stay closed. This is called a "self latching" relay circuit.
You put a normally closed switch inline in the "latch wire" and mount it where it can be operated (opened) by your brake pedal. That way, when you hit the brake it de-energizes the coil to the relay and unlocks the torque converter.
With this simple controller you just hit the button to lock it up and tap the brakes to unlock it. All it takes is a relay, a momentary pushbutton, an NC switch, and some wire - all of which can be picked up at Radio Shack for under $15. If you later want to make it automatic, all you have to do is replace the pushbutton with an adjustable Hobbs pressure switch screwed into the 3rd gear pressure port on the side of the tranny.
John
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John
Last edited by Benzer1; Mar 8, 2010 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Diesel Wrench
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 730
Likes: 33
From: Vancouver Wa
Cool , are you going with the kit that includes the t-conv or the one by 4x4 labs? If the one with t-conv which stall are you getting? Hey cheeper, I might need a parts list and wiring diagram for the lock-up, sounds like you know what your doing! Thanks!
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 274
Likes: 7
From: Kent, WA
Sure, no problem. Gimme a couple of days and I'll draw up a circuit diagram and post it...
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Mercedes diesel info
ABOVE IS THE LINK TO THE ADAPTER SITE---^^^
I'm thinking of going this route, but with my 229 t-case, I would have to either buy ANOTHER adapter, or find a t-case that both works with the 700R4 and the driveshafts in my otherwise stock '88 Grand Wagoneer. I think I'll try making my own adapter plate and torque converter, unless I can find an appropriate t-case that the driveshafts will connect to.
ABOVE IS THE LINK TO THE ADAPTER SITE---^^^
I'm thinking of going this route, but with my 229 t-case, I would have to either buy ANOTHER adapter, or find a t-case that both works with the 700R4 and the driveshafts in my otherwise stock '88 Grand Wagoneer. I think I'll try making my own adapter plate and torque converter, unless I can find an appropriate t-case that the driveshafts will connect to.
