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Kubota Ranger Swap

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  #51  
Old 10-03-2011, 07:05 PM
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Update: Got the exhaust finished today, plumbed it so the turbo could be taken off and on with ease. I’m going to run in normally aspirated first and then put the turbo on just to see the fuel mileage and power changes. I was able to take it for a short drive, maybe 5-6 miles around the country block so-to-speak. It is by no means a power house but has plenty of power to run around the surface streets, not sure how the interstate will go yet. I’m still only getting 2800 RPM’s which I’m not satisfied with it needs to turn up in the 3100-3200 range. Next is putting the fuel tank back on the truck so I can put the hood back on.
 
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  #52  
Old 10-03-2011, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by usedkubotaman
Update: Got the exhaust finished today, plumbed it so the turbo could be taken off and on with ease. I’m going to run in normally aspirated first and then put the turbo on just to see the fuel mileage and power changes. I was able to take it for a short drive, maybe 5-6 miles around the country block so-to-speak. It is by no means a power house but has plenty of power to run around the surface streets, not sure how the interstate will go yet. I’m still only getting 2800 RPM’s which I’m not satisfied with it needs to turn up in the 3100-3200 range. Next is putting the fuel tank back on the truck so I can put the hood back on.
i think you meant to post this here....

https://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel...onversion.html
 
  #53  
Old 10-03-2011, 08:58 PM
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Sorry guys posted my last update on Jake's page, can't figure out how to get it off the page, maybe one of the mods can help. Sorry Jake!
 
  #54  
Old 10-04-2011, 09:32 AM
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No problem Kubota Man. Sounds like you are doing good and I think the more you drive it the better you will like it. That industrial governor takes a little getting used to. I hardly ever exceed 2500 rpm which is 65 mph in fifth. Revs don't really seem to help that much, seems lilke they are the happiest between 1800 and 2500, that's the smoothest with mine anyway. Good luck to you, Jake
 
  #55  
Old 10-04-2011, 10:07 AM
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Hi Jake, nice work! I too have a Kubota swap in progress. Mine is a v2203 like Kubota Man and am putting a turbo on as well, it is in a Ranger. I agree on the rpm keeping @ 1800. That is what the hp and tq maps show as the "sweet spot" for this motor. With any luck I should have it moving under it's own power this week!
 
  #56  
Old 10-04-2011, 12:54 PM
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Hi FTE, I have been keeping an eye and yours and Kubota mans posts. I think you will both be very happy with your results. I consider 1800 the bottom limit if the engine is under any load to speak of. I don't think the engine cares but I believe that more rpm smooths out the power pulses and may be a little easier on the drive train. Something I haven't mentioned before, I run as little tension on the serpentine belt as I can get by with. The pulley is a bit further from the bearing in the water pump with this setup and since I would have to pull the engine to change out the water pump I'm being extra careful. Keep up the good work and keep us informed. Jake
 
  #57  
Old 10-04-2011, 09:33 PM
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Thanks, I am running the V belt with the alt as the only acc so far as my Ranger is basic. It does have a tac so I will be trying to get it working like you did. Have you turned up the pump or done any tweaks to improve performance? What kind of boost pressure are you running?
 
  #58  
Old 10-04-2011, 10:47 PM
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The change I have made is to shim the waste gate pressure can out by putting two 5/16" flat washers between it and the mounting bracket. Moved max boost from 8 to 10#. That isn't going to do you much good since you don't have the factory turbo. I don't think I would get much more boost without the wastegate. Has to be about 2500 to get to 10# so probably wouldn't go much higher. There are easier ways to make the tach drive wheel then the way I did it but it works good and seemed llike a good idea at the time. You just have to get the right number of notches or holes so you have to figure the diameter and the drill size just right. I used a flat bent into a circle but would be easier to use a piece of pipe. Just use the same number of notches as your original engine including the blank and it should work. I don't think the diameter makes any difference as long as you can get the sensor close enough. I'm sure you have already figured all that out. Good luck to you. Jake
 
  #59  
Old 01-08-2012, 04:21 PM
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Hey Jake,

Thanks for posting this. It it pretty cool to see what some people are using smaller diesel engines for. Have you thought about running some of the modifications that other diesel guys run to save on fuel like an intake and exhaust? Curious what your thought is on this. I'm thinking since you raised the boost on your engine, you might have more of a vacuum pressure before the turbo which would reduce the mass of air your flowing through your engine.
 
  #60  
Old 03-11-2012, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 74dj5d
i wish i lived next door to you jakebilt, your the man!
appolgies to members. cant PM this fellow yet according to settings of this boards engine so gotta reach out to him this way.


74dj5D- You mentioned you plan to do a diesel bike back in 2009. Have you done this? either way... visit suckingdiesel.com/thingy. Its a site like this one but dedicated to diesel motorcycle building.
 


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