When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When you say retarded timing. Is this in respect to the new higher/ varied rpm these motors are seeing in a automotive application. The my is probably ideal for 1800 rpm but needs more when we are revving higher. The advanced timing removing the shims places timing closer to ideal at the 2200+ range I bet. I wonder if we can shift the injection gear one tooth advanced and run shims to bring an to 14* or so. It appears 12* is the limit when all shims are removed. Then again 12* may be the happy medium. Good starting/ reasonable rpm efficiency.
We found a crack on #4 tonight, so it's looking like it would probably be a good idea to replace all 4 pistons.
Originally Posted by FTE
Ouch! Bet the crank will need to be ground.
I'll check the specs before putting it together, but the crank looks really clean. If I have to pull the engine, I'm probably not putting a Kubota back in.
Originally Posted by yellow68gto
When you say retarded timing. Is this in respect to the new higher/ varied rpm these motors are seeing in a automotive application.
That was just an idea that Rangmar had on first impression. I don't think that's the case as all of my shims are removed and I'd have to be off a tooth for the timing to be that retarded.
I dropped the head off at the machine shop to be magnafluxed today. I should know in the morning if it is ok. I also found a shop to check the injector patterns. No charge unless cleaning or rebuild is required, so I'll get those shipped out tomorrow. The porting on the exhaust manifold and turbo adapter is almost done. I'll still need to port the head when I get it back, then it's just a matter of getting all of the new parts and getting everything to the ceramic coater before assembly.
Check out the misalignment. There's no less than 4 places that are this bad in the flow path. It should make a huge difference once it's all smoothed out!
Has anyone replaced their pistons? I'm trying to figure out what this had for pistons, and all we've been able to figure out so far is that it is stock bore. Unfortunately the numbers on the pistons are Carrier specific, so there is no easy cross reference.
It's not an 03-M series engine, but the pistons appear visually identical to the M series pistons with the molly coating on the skirts, and the raised area for the pin retention clips. The standard 03-DI pistons look much different, so I'm curious if they didn't put the newer style M series pistons in these even though they're not Ms?
is the difference for the one you found in the pin boss, or the bowl location or both? the pistons I have seen for sale all come with wrist pins , which may make that pin boss not so important
I found this one; a bit spendy at $140 each no rings.
The only differences I can see are in pictures, so just the pin boss and coatings. I'd have to have them side by side to compare bowl location, but I doubt it's different.
FTE - Is that a catalog you can order out of?
As a side note, I pulled the pistons from my original engine. As we suspected the rings are stuck with zero gap, indicating that they probably had inadequate gap to handle the extra heat.
Both 1st and 2nd ring gaps are in this picture, but the 2nd one is almost impossible to spot (about an inch to the left of the top ring gap).
It's a catalog that the mechanic from work gave me, it's a parts supplier in Portland that he gets parts to service our equipment. I suppose I can buy from them, most likely not at the price he is getting. It's the same as the link that Diesel XJ posted. You most likely have a similar supplier up in your neck of the woods.
My original configuration was with a TD04L-13G turbo from an '04 WRX and a small FMIC.
For the fuel system I removed the fuel pump and check valve, then installed Vulcan DrawStraws. They're pricey, and I used them mostly to save the time of having to do the research and piece something together myself. If I were to do it again I'd probably get stuff from the hardware store.
I also ran a full separate return line so the vent line would remain free, but knowing what I do now I'd just use a filter head with the return built in if I did it again.
A friend machined the adapter plate and flywheel adapter for me. I used the stock Jeep flywheel, clutch, and AX-15 transmission, which allowed me to keep the original crank sensor to keep the PCM happy.
It's pretty amazing to me looking back through these and seeing how crude it was and everything I've changed.
The WRX turbo ended up being too large. That combined with inexperience and lack of sleep spelled disaster on the first run. I had an exhaust appointment with a shop I've dealt with in the past 100 miles away on the other side of a mountain pass, I didn't get it completely buttoned up until after 2AM and was on the road before 5AM. It melted down right at the 50 mile mark while pulling the pass. I still think something on the reman was out of spec. I ran the exact same setup on another engine for thousands of miles after this without any catastrophic failure.
OUCH
More to come
What would your buddy charge to make another of those adapter plates wanting to do this swap got the motor already also from washington
11-14-2016, 05:43 PM
