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1999 Jeep Wrangler V2203 Build Overview

  #21  
Old 11-13-2016, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselxj
so you over temped vs overrevved
I suspect so, but it sounds like we're running in the same temp range.

Originally Posted by dieselxj
it is kind of a PIA to drive by the EGT.
Definitely! It got a little easier when I changed my EGT gauge to one with an alarm that goes off at a preset temp. At least I don't have to keep my eyes glued to it at all times.

Originally Posted by dieselxj
I wonder if it is a jeep thing, are you still at 3.08 rear gear with the ax15? I wonder if I am overloading and not revving enough. but man the engine sure seems to like running in the 2000-2200 range. it runs just fine in 4th, at 2500 too, just seems better at 2000
My stock gears are 3.73 with the AX15. It does like that range, but mine just doesn't have the oomph to stay there at higher speed. Keeping it revved up, I was able to maintain 60-70MPH going over the passes in southern Oregon on I5 when I took a trip to northern California in 2014.

Originally Posted by dieselxj
For mods have you thought about oil squirters. I am working toward them for this engine. on my gen 1.5 today, I have finally gotten rid of the oil vacuum pump and went with the little VW hella electric pump. so far I like it.
What is the vacuum pump for?

I've done research on oil squirters, and it just wouldn't be feasible for me right now. I've actually been laid off since January, so I'm doing all this on a tight budget. I really don't want to have to pull the engine from the Jeep and strip down the block to get it machined. On a positive note, it did last 4 years and ~40,000 miles, so it can't be too far over the threshold. It has plenty of fuel and boost, so I'm thinking the ceramic coating to help evenly distribute the heat and reflect it out of the combustion chamber, along with increasing flow may be the ticket.

One thing I realized that may or may not be a coincidence is that it started to lose the bottom end power shortly after I changed to a hotter thermostat (200*). I'm wondering if the slight drop in heat absorption capacity was just enough to bump it over the top and start overheating the pistons? I've also had a hell of a time keeping my turbo adapter from breaking. I finally got the bracket gusseted, welded, and the turbo braced well enough to stop cracking welds, but it started breaking bolts off in the manifold. Whenever that would happen the first sign would be the turbo losing efficiency and EGTs creeping higher and higher over a period of days or weeks as the leak worsened. It's possible that damage occurred during one of these times of overall higher average temps.
 
  #22  
Old 11-13-2016, 05:15 PM
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how did your ceramic coat hold up on your manifold? My Vacuum pump is for Aircon vent control and vacuum power brakes.
I guess I got lucky on my turbo adapter, mine is dead simple; straight up and down, the center pipe goes all the way thru the flanges, and is welded on the inside and tacked on the outside with the EGT bung in middle, just enough room to weld it.
I don't know if you can see 1200F glow, but it has to be pretty close to glowing hot. The airplanes and some of the boats I worked on glowed at power, the planes really get your attention at night. the boats turbo hot sections are all water cooled like crazy, then they start glowing rite where the water stops Glowing steel is weak steel, so had to be completely unloaded or it would crack
3.73 and a ax15 I think you might be spinning faster than me with ax15, and 3.08 and a 28.5" tire. I am rite at 1980-2000 rpm at 68-69mph.

Who are you getting your hard parts from??? and gaskets?
 
  #23  
Old 11-13-2016, 05:21 PM
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The manifold ceramic coating ended up getting rust bleeding through. The company offered to redo it, but I never got around to taking it off and getting it to them. The outside of the exhaust never got hot enough to glow. It touched 1200 in the exhaust stream, but never sustained that temp long enough to heat soak the metal.
 
  #24  
Old 11-13-2016, 11:05 PM
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Hey guys, my new rig weighs in at 4500lbs with me and 1/2 tank of fuel. I have scaled it at over 4800lbs and it doesn't seem much different performance than my 3700lb Ranger was. Fuel MPG's are a bit lower but 36 MPG average isn't too shabby. I have to wonder if you have an out-of-balance issue causing all the breakage.
 
  #25  
Old 11-14-2016, 12:48 AM
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I'm not sure what you mean by out of balance issue?
 
  #26  
Old 11-14-2016, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by redveloce
I'm not sure what you mean by out of balance issue?
Seems like you're breaking a lot of brackets and bolts, maybe your flywheel setup is causing the issue.
 
  #27  
Old 11-14-2016, 12:09 PM
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Oh, I see what you're saying. It's entirely possible. I know the Jeep flywheel is lighter than the original Kubota flywheel.
 
  #28  
Old 11-14-2016, 12:28 PM
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did you ever put up limits on your engine mounts? I am a new convert. I destroyed my last set of mounts on the AK trip. They were barely a year old. I now have the nylon wrapped anchor transmission mounts for the front of the engine,
the new old engine is much quieter now., the idle sounds different, but so far more steady than the old.
 
  #29  
Old 11-14-2016, 02:39 PM
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So far here's the carnage.

Other than what I've already shown, I found a broken ring on #2, which was expected. Piston #4 has a bunch of pock marks on the top, and the bearings for #2 & 4 are bad. The rest of the bearings and pistons look ok with only light scuffs in the coating on the skirts.

Broken ring from #2


Bearing from #2


Piston #4


Bearing from #4
 
  #30  
Old 11-14-2016, 03:47 PM
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Ouch! Bet the crank will need to be ground.
 

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