I wired ign and s to a switched 12v. Charged great 13.4-14v

On your throttle did you eliminate the spring on the accelerator pedal?

 

excellent I'll see if I can get the alternator to work.

I did remove that spring. I remembered you mentioning that when I was up at your place. I think I just made the pulley too small. And I cant get the ratio right to overcome the larger governor spring I put it

 

finally got her running last week. sounds great but I have been battling the idle. I swapped the governor spring before i put the motor in the truck, and swapped that one out this morning but am still having the same issue. I cant get the dang thing to idle down. When I turn down the hard stop idle screw it gets a lot of play in the throttle like the spring is going limp for lack of a better term. and it just kind of surges between about 500rpm and 1500rpm.

Could this be as simple as just putting in a shorter spring to try and keep that tension on there? or is there possibly another issue going on?

 

I have sort of the same issue. I also think my modified spring may be a tiny bit too long. mine does not sound quite as bad as yours. I can get it to idle down ok if I slow down from cruise in gear. If I just put it in Neutral and coast, it won't idle down well, and seems to get hung about 11-1200. only rarely does it surge.
I tried to measure my spring out to 2" at the bearing surfaces.
post up what you find out if you try a shorter spring
are you driving yet?

 

I had a post all wrote up but i guess it didnt post. I found this thread https://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel...-88-s10-4.html and saw FTE's post about the spring lenght. I put the stock one back in and it idles fine but will only hit about 2000rpm now and is much slower to get there. Its strange because I thought the springs I got were the same length as the stock one (2") I will have to take it back out again and see if I can find one thats the same length but stronger

 

I'm thinking that if you go a different length it should be a bit longer than shorter. The reason I think is the stock one is partially stretched at idle, so with a stiffer one at idle not much starching going on. Also the stock spring has a straight part extending past the coil before the hook, the one you used doesn't have any straight part between the coil and hook. I wonder if it is binding up causing the inconsistency. I had one of those springs in my assortment to try and passed for a different one, only I can't find out what I used without taking it out.

 

Had an awesome experience yesterday... it died about 5 miles from home and now I cant get it to start. I put about 40 miles on it before this happened. No signs of anything, it just shut off off doing about 55.

My suspicion is that I picked some air up through the draw tube from the tank being too low but now I cant get it to start or really even to sputter. it will occasionally get one cylinder to fire as I finally get some smoke but thats about it.

it primes all the way to the injector pump. I bleed all the lines at the injectors numerous times but still get the same result... nada. It seems like there is plenty of fuel coming out of the injector lines but I seldom even get a puff. any suggestions?

 

did you check your E-shutdown solenoid???. I ended up using a Carrier fuel filter assy, and the return goes to the filter head

 

Yeah, that's the first thing I checked. It's working perfect. I am so baffled since it worked great for the week or so I had it running, then just all of a sudden it stopped running and now I cant get anything out of it. I've bled the lines coming out of the IP and then right at the injectors. still cant get anything out of it... and now the starter is getting angry at me for cranking so much.

just cranking... how much fuel should be coming out of the lines at the injectors and what kind of pressure should there be?

 

Do you still have spring pressure at the manual shutoff lever? It does not sound so much like an air problem. As a shutdown problem