Also, don't forget that factory numbers are measured at the flywheel. Rangmar's numbers are at the wheels.

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I don't have an intercooler, but I did put stiffer springs on the governor and adjusted the fuel rack. With a manual boost controller, I'm getting 14-15PSI when I goose the throttle, it' moves pretty darn good, I can pass other cars no problem, so long as everyone is going 55 or less. It's just not geared to go faster than 60. It's no small block, but it really does move good! Way better than with the old flathead, that's for sure!

 

I agree with you completely. I am in the research portion of the V2203. I have nothing purchased at this time. My sole diesel swap was with a 4BT Cummins into a '62 pu. It turned out nice, but not perfect. I used a 400 turbo transmission. It needed an OD. As you said, gearing is the key to a good swap.
If I thought the V2203 was an inapropriate motor I would have been long gone from this site. My earlier post was just passing along information from another "expert". I want it, now I need to find the time to do it. 75 to 80 hr work weeks take there toll.

 

The above has changed. I just purchased a 2002 Blazer 2door 2wd V6 auto from an insurance salvage pool. The damage is minor. The miles are low. I bought it from photos online. I have my fingers crossed. I have to pick it up in the next 4 days in Chicago. That's 300 miles one way. Snow is possible on Wed. I considered driving it home but reconsidered. I better get aquainted with it here.

The internet (which never lies) says it weighs 3488 lb.

The saga begins.

 

Here's one for the Jeep people.

In order to turn on the tach, the PCM needs to see a signal from the cam sensor on startup. It's common for people to make or buy two sensor wheels, one for the cam and one for the crank sensor ($400+ from JD!). When I was building mine, I found that it doesn't check for accuracy of the cam sensor signal, just presence during startup. Some have used a relay to tie the disconnected cam sensor signal wire into the active crank sensor signal wire during startup, which is what I did and have used successfully for the past year and a half.

I was thinking about it last night though and couldn't see any reason why the cam sensor would need to be disconnected after starting. The actual signal from the cam sensor is used with the gas engines for checks related to fuel and ignition timing, but does not affect the gauge readout in any way after startup. It shares the same 5v power and ground output as the crank sensor, and is the same type of pickup, so there isn't any chance of overpowering and frying something.

I decided to try just directly connecting the cam signal wire to the crank sensor signal, and it worked! I managed to eliminate two fist fulls of wire, ties, and other junk in the process.

 

I saw this decal for sale on Flee-Bay. It is kind of cute. Check it out.
NO it is not me selling them nor do I know the seller.
Kubota Kiss This Decal Mower Tractor Pull Pulling Sticker Trailer Parts New | eBay

Should we band together and have a more tastefull one done? How about "Kubota Powered" or "Powered by Kubota"?

 

Rangmar and I both have this one from eBay.



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does anyone have the full part # or build # for the VW K03 turbocharger? Or a picture of the complete data plate on the turbo? I wanted to try and look up the compressor map on it.

thanks

never mind I got it I think # 06A 145 713 B K03-058-EB5037706

lets see what I can find for a map

 

Has anybody had issues with the transmission input shaft being too long for the Kubota? Is it okay to just cut it to length? Did you put the pilot bearing in the flywheel or crank?

 

The shaft in the T90 in my jeep was the right length. The adapter plate was fairly thick though, so that probably compensated for it?







So, I'm mocking up a crude exhaust brake for my jeep. I've got the butterfly valve ready, and I'm just going to un-bolt the back 2/3 of my exhaust, and temporarily bolt the valve right up to the end of the down pipe to give it a test.

My question though, is what do I need to look out for as far as to much back pressure? Will that be something I'll be able to feel or hear when it builds up to much? Or is it something that can only be sensed with a pressure gauge? I could weld in a bung and temporarily rig up a pressure sensor?

Right now I've got two holes drilled in the butterfly valve. The valve itself is just smaller than the pipe diameter, so it wouldn't seal all the way even if there weren't holes. I figure I can enlarge the holes if needed, or weld them up and drill smaller ones if I'm not getting enough back pressure.


Any concerns here? I don't need tons of back pressure, I'm not towing a boat down a hill. Just want to keep my jeep from gaining to much speed on long hills coming down mountains without riding the brakes hard.

I'll take a photo of my setup tonight. Is there any theoretical guide or rule of thumb for how much restriction there should be?