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The Kubota Swap 'Hijack Me' Topic

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  #41  
Old 02-14-2014, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by usedkubotaman
Yeah I bet getting two springs on there was a pain! Yes this is looking down through the throttle plate, you should be able to remove it and look without much trouble.
I should have taken a photo, but I found a spring that was a little bit more tension than the factory spring with a smaller diameter and same exact length, so I nested it inside the factory spring, it was happy days once I finally got them hooked up

In retrospect, I shoudl have found a spring that was the length of the coils on the kubota spring, and just attached it to the coil springs itself, so I'd only have to worry about getting one spring hooked in place. BUT, that's life. haha! If I want more tension later, that's exactly what I'll do. Right now my RPM in neutral goes up to 2800. Which is fine, my cruise RPM is 2200 but I may want to open it up a bit more later in case I want to bounce the rev limiter to get the jeep unstuck.

I'll pop the throttle plate off this weekend if I have time (I'll be working, ugh! ) and see if that spring is there.




If the spring IS there and it's connected like it should be, any suggestions? I've got a box of old random springs that I can use if it's missing. should it be a fairly heavy tension spring? or light?


(dang, I love the smiles on this forum, they rock! sorry for using so many! haha)
 

Last edited by danielbuck; 02-14-2014 at 09:49 PM.
  #42  
Old 02-15-2014, 08:20 AM
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Light tension on the little spring, it only provides enough pressure to pull the rack forward for starting. Not sure otherwise but it has to be one of the springs, there is nothing else.
 
  #43  
Old 02-15-2014, 01:15 PM
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On another note, my current exhaust size is 1 3/4" diameter from the turbo all the way back, with no muffler, all 1/16" mandrel bent steel with the first bend coming out of the turbo being 1/8" I did this because I originally thought I might place the EGT sensor there and thought thicker pipe would be easier to drill and weld the bung into, but I decided to put it before the turbo.


Would there be much noticeable difference in either power, or sound, or EGT if I stepped up the pipe size to something larger, like 2.5"? What about the first foot or so coming out of the turbo, making that bit larger than the rest of the pipe? I'm learning to TIG weld, so I think this might be a fun first project. I MIG welded the exhaust that's on there now, but I'd like some better looking TIG welds


I've got enough power for what I need, but I know I can't NOT mess with it
 

Last edited by danielbuck; 02-15-2014 at 01:26 PM.
  #44  
Old 02-15-2014, 03:07 PM
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Usedkubotaman - Does yours have this piece off of the back of the IP housing?

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It's a spring loaded part that pushes the rack forward. I checked my old DI engine, and it doesn't have the little internal spring.

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  #45  
Old 02-15-2014, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by danielbuck
On another note, my current exhaust size is 1 3/4" diameter from the turbo all the way back, with no muffler, all 1/16" mandrel bent steel with the first bend coming out of the turbo being 1/8" I did this because I originally thought I might place the EGT sensor there and thought thicker pipe would be easier to drill and weld the bung into, but I decided to put it before the turbo.


Would there be much noticeable difference in either power, or sound, or EGT if I stepped up the pipe size to something larger, like 2.5"? What about the first foot or so coming out of the turbo, making that bit larger than the rest of the pipe? I'm learning to TIG weld, so I think this might be a fun first project. I MIG welded the exhaust that's on there now, but I'd like some better looking TIG welds


I've got enough power for what I need, but I know I can't NOT mess with it
You chose the correct location for the EGT, before the turbo.
The increase in exhaust pipe diameter could help performance. That would more than double the pipe capacity. Since you have used a heavier down pipe that is an even bigger increase.
There would be a difference in sound. Just changing from heavy wall pipe to exhaust tube makes a sound change. The exhaust note should get deeper, but I don't know what it would sound like.
If you are going to TIG exhaust tubing you will need to remove any aluminized coating at the weld site.
I like using some form of coupler in the exhaust system so I can easily get it apart. V-bands are great but a little pricy.
 
  #46  
Old 02-15-2014, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by redveloce
Usedkubotaman - Does yours have this piece off of the back of the IP housing?



It's a spring loaded part that pushes the rack forward. I checked my old DI engine, and it doesn't have the little internal spring.

According to the Carrier manual, that is called the High idle body, and all of my 2.2's have this not the spring Kubotaman shows. It must be a Carrier only or a later year option. I have a 2003, 2005 and 2006. My 2.0t motor is different.
 
  #47  
Old 02-15-2014, 09:33 PM
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Good to know there is a difference between the DI and IDI governors. I only had the one spring in my DI parts engine. I pulled it out the other day I was going to cut it down ala usedkubotaman, but now I am not sure.
I still would like to see a modified DI spring anyone have a picture of their modified spring?
 
  #48  
Old 02-15-2014, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselxj
Good to know there is a difference between the DI and IDI governors. I only had the one spring in my DI parts engine. I pulled it out the other day I was going to cut it down ala usedkubotaman, but now I am not sure.
I still would like to see a modified DI spring anyone have a picture of their modified spring?
I wish I had documented the spring I used, would have made it easy for next time. Now I will have to take it back out to match up. I just got lucky, but some are doubling up the stock one with a smaller spring inside and others are cutting the stock one. The key is to not get it too short because then it won't idle well.
 
  #49  
Old 02-15-2014, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by FTE
I wish I had documented the spring I used, would have made it easy for next time. Now I will have to take it back out to match up. I just got lucky, but some are doubling up the stock one with a smaller spring inside and others are cutting the stock one. The key is to not get it too short because then it won't idle well.
Well this next time you should document more and take pictures. Besides some people need pictures as they can not read like myself.
 
  #50  
Old 02-15-2014, 11:39 PM
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I have the spare spring I suppose it would not hurt to try and fiddle with one of my spares. I just remember that messing with springs is not that much fun.
FTE, or REd, Did the coater give any kind of a group discount? FTE we could send ours off together. I want to talk to the coater and see if it will be much better if I get the turbo coated before it is used?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Jester, was there a part # for FTE's spring somewhere buried in the thread?
 

Last edited by dieselxj; 02-15-2014 at 11:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


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