The bid on this unit is currently $1300 (including sellers fees). The auction end is a few weeks away yet. I expect the price to go much higher. I am no longer interested. As has been discussed in this thread, it is too much work, time, and expense to move the trailer and dismantle it. I will continue looking for a removed unit.
Thanks everyone for your input on this one!

 

Have you been in contact with Your local Carrier dealer. Our local Carrier dealer has about 10 Kubota powered reefers in his yard that have been removed from the trailers for upgrades or time replacement, he can't sell them because they still belong to his customers. If your local dealer is anything like ours. He may put you in contact with one of his customers to see if you can work out a deal.

 

I actually spoke to them this evening. There price is $1500 for a high time motor. There is a local milk company that never upgrades there fleet. That means they need to replace motors in their reefers. The dealer can use all he gets to install in their units. He seemed eager to help when I told him what it was for. He said he would try to work with me to find a little newer motor. I don't think they are my best option. If I understood a previous contact correctly, I can buy a complete lower time reefer unit for about the same money. Anything I could sell off of it would lessen my expenses.
I called about another truck on our local Craigslist. It looked good in the photos. It was more than I wanted to pay. No answer. Not a good way to sell a truck.
What is everyone else spending for their trucks? There seem to be quite a few with bad motors here. I want a nice body, without rust. I live in the rust belt.

 

My swap is a '97 F-150 with 110,000 miles (hydrolocked) that I got for $1,200 plus some custom wooden drawers. The owner bought it when it was 1 year old but only drove it in the summers. I know that others here have gotten their rigs anywhere from free to $1,500. What model and year are you looking for? I don't know where you're located but I've seen some decent deals around Vegas and Phoenix.

 

I am not affiliated with this in any way. I have emailed this mfg a few times. I have told this mfg about this site and asked him to check it out. He is also working on trans adapter plates ($375). His 2" thick plate is supposed to mimic the back of a GM block. It is supposed to take the GM starter. He also advertizes exhaust header flanges, oil pan flanges, and shut off solenoid plates. The price would be $700 for the trans plate and flywheel adapter. Most here are building there own for less than half of that, but it takes labor and calculation.

I believe this would fit the 4.3 transmission not the 4 cyl. His swap is in a full size truck that he uses around his ranch. If the 4.3 uses the one piece crank seal like the later model V8 motors this setup would need an earlier flywheel/flexplate.

Anyone have any more information or thoughts on this setup?

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Are you guys that are using the KO3 turbo taking the pressure regulation canister off? Here is a link I found to a knock off of the KO3.
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...6ETzgMDVgDI7IE
The gold canister on this photo is used to regulate the boost output on the VW. This probably opens the relief between 6 and 9 psi on the VW. I see boost levels reported here over 20 psi. That is making me believe you are removing this canister.

If you are removing the canister are you also making a linkage to lock the relief valve closed? In some old posts on another site I saw some were actually welding the relief valve to seal it shut. Anyone doing this?

There was just a pair of VW KO3 turbos sold on Fleebay. The seller said they needed rebuild. The selling price for the pair was $118 with shipping. I didn't bid, but was interested. What are the pick a part places charging? If you bought one at the local recycler would you automaically put a rebuild kit into it?

My last turbo rebuild (4BT) seemed to go well, but it didn't live. I wound up buying a new one shortly after my rebuild. I don't know what I did wrong or missed. At that time my new one was an upgrade.

I see several of the Fleebay Chinese turbos state they are upgrades for the KO3. That would probably not be a good idea, since it seems the stock setup is working well. An upgrade may not match our needs. Has anyone tired one?

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M&PCCW - I like the name. (That is my choice also)
I am interested to see how the motor does with the bigger truck.
I'm located in the "Rust Belt". St. Louis is the closest major city. Im in Southern IL.
I have been looking for a nice bodied, bad motored 2nd gen S10 or Sonoma. I put a wanted add on Craigslist this afternoon. One call so far but not exactly what I want. The asking price was $600 but had minor body damage. I would rather pay a little more and not do body work.

 

does anyone have a picture of a finished modified governor spring??

 

I recognize a few user names on here

I've got a V2203 with a non-intercooled IHI-RHf4 turbo in my 1946 ******. I've been driving it every day for the passed 2-3 months just working out any little kinks and slowly taking care of all the little things, rattles and what not. In general, it seems to be running real good! I've not done a whole lot of tuning on it. I've doubled up the governor spring, and I backed out the fuel screw. No smoke, and EGT is good. When I stand on the throttle in neutral, the RPMs go to 2800 and hold.


So my question: When ever the motor drops down to idle speed, it always seems to dip below the idle speed momentarily and send a shudder/shake through the vehicle before it instantly goes back up to the correct idle speed. Just like when you turn the vehicle off, it shakes as it shuts down.

Any way to get rid of this? Right now, the idle speed is around 8250 or so, and idles smooth once it's been running for a few minutes. I'm thinking about bumping it up, but I don't want to go to high. Is this possibly an indication that the turbo or fuel or something else isn't setup properly? Or is it normal?





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Also, I have 1.75" exhaust tubing coming out of the turbo all the way back, no muffler or diameter changes. I was thinking later on making a much larger pipe coming out of the turbo, that then tapers into the rest of my 1.75" exhaust. Would this net any power or anything at all?

 

Look on my thread "S-10 Kubota Diesel Conversion" pg33, there's a small spring that keeps the rack pulled forward, check that spring.

 

Thanks! This is a different spring than the governor spring that's accessed through the stop lever panel, right? I don't remember seeing another spring in there, but then again I wasn't looking for another one.



(edit) Yea, in your photo here I don't remember if I saw a spring there or not. That's looking straight down through the throttle plate, right?

Wonder if I can crack the throttle plate open and take a look, without upsetting the governor springs (I doubled my governor springs up), it was a b*tch getting those springs on there! haha!

 

Yeah I bet getting two springs on there was a pain! Yes this is looking down through the throttle plate, you should be able to remove it and look without much trouble.