Om617 96 Jeep Cherokee build thread
#74
Should be pretty cool when its all done. I bet you have some interesting parts on that XJ that most of us haven't seen, not sure if that made it harder or easier for you. Would love to see some pics.
#75
#76
Sooooooo in short the only thing you need to keep is the sensor portion (the piece with the wires attached) you will later create your own magnetic trigger by passing a magnet in front of the sensor instead of the shield/unshield method Jeep uses.
Sorry for the long explanation, thought someone could use it in the future.
http://s508.photobucket.com/user/evenglass1/media/IMG_3307_zpsac4dd106.jpg.html
Picture of what I was left with after grinding all the plastic away.
#77
#78
Hi evenglass, thank for the info, but the cam sender I have from a '94 6cyl is a magnet, or has a magnet. It gets its interruption from from a steel rotator that spins with the distributor, and I guess only has the one interruption. The rotator spins in between the magnet in the sender and a vertical bit opposite the magnet. The clearance between the mag and the vertical bit is approx. .080".
I don't know what is in the '98, I did not pull the dist cap from the '98 engine, as it was running perfect when I pulled it.
so that now that I have looked at it a little closer, I am wondering if both parts of the sender are necessary or just the magnet side. it sort of seems that maybe the opposite side from the magnet is where the signal is generated? my thought is that if the magnet is fixed, then maybe the mag flux is interrupted by the spinning rotator? and sensed from the opposite side from the magnet??? Heck I don't know.
Since both you and Red, are saying the same thing that the cam signal does not have to be accurate, just present, I think I am going to try Redveloce's method, and not even use the cam sender at all, I will try and get a fooling signal to the cam side of the ECM from piggy backing onto the Crank sensor.
I will post a pic of the '94 distributor on my thread so as not to jack up your thread with my pictures.
Thanks for the info , I will keep you posted as I progress. I did not have a tach in my MB Cherokee, so this is new territory for me
I don't know what is in the '98, I did not pull the dist cap from the '98 engine, as it was running perfect when I pulled it.
so that now that I have looked at it a little closer, I am wondering if both parts of the sender are necessary or just the magnet side. it sort of seems that maybe the opposite side from the magnet is where the signal is generated? my thought is that if the magnet is fixed, then maybe the mag flux is interrupted by the spinning rotator? and sensed from the opposite side from the magnet??? Heck I don't know.
Since both you and Red, are saying the same thing that the cam signal does not have to be accurate, just present, I think I am going to try Redveloce's method, and not even use the cam sender at all, I will try and get a fooling signal to the cam side of the ECM from piggy backing onto the Crank sensor.
I will post a pic of the '94 distributor on my thread so as not to jack up your thread with my pictures.
Thanks for the info , I will keep you posted as I progress. I did not have a tach in my MB Cherokee, so this is new territory for me
#79
Hi evenglass, thank for the info, but the cam sender I have from a '94 6cyl is a magnet, or has a magnet. It gets its interruption from from a steel rotator that spins with the distributor, and I guess only has the one interruption. The rotator spins in between the magnet in the sender and a vertical bit opposite the magnet. The clearance between the mag and the vertical bit is approx. .080".
I don't know what is in the '98, I did not pull the dist cap from the '98 engine, as it was running perfect when I pulled it.
so that now that I have looked at it a little closer, I am wondering if both parts of the sender are necessary or just the magnet side. it sort of seems that maybe the opposite side from the magnet is where the signal is generated? my thought is that if the magnet is fixed, then maybe the mag flux is interrupted by the spinning rotator? and sensed from the opposite side from the magnet??? Heck I don't know.
Since both you and Red, are saying the same thing that the cam signal does not have to be accurate, just present, I think I am going to try Redveloce's method, and not even use the cam sender at all, I will try and get a fooling signal to the cam side of the ECM from piggy backing onto the Crank sensor.
I will post a pic of the '94 distributor on my thread so as not to jack up your thread with my pictures.
Thanks for the info , I will keep you posted as I progress. I did not have a tach in my MB Cherokee, so this is new territory for me
I don't know what is in the '98, I did not pull the dist cap from the '98 engine, as it was running perfect when I pulled it.
so that now that I have looked at it a little closer, I am wondering if both parts of the sender are necessary or just the magnet side. it sort of seems that maybe the opposite side from the magnet is where the signal is generated? my thought is that if the magnet is fixed, then maybe the mag flux is interrupted by the spinning rotator? and sensed from the opposite side from the magnet??? Heck I don't know.
Since both you and Red, are saying the same thing that the cam signal does not have to be accurate, just present, I think I am going to try Redveloce's method, and not even use the cam sender at all, I will try and get a fooling signal to the cam side of the ECM from piggy backing onto the Crank sensor.
I will post a pic of the '94 distributor on my thread so as not to jack up your thread with my pictures.
Thanks for the info , I will keep you posted as I progress. I did not have a tach in my MB Cherokee, so this is new territory for me
My 96' distributor was indeed different than your 94'. The 96' had a solid metal cone with just a small window to expose the magnet to the sensor once per revolution for a very short time. So the way I see it on the 94' has a magnetic sensor that is triggered by a small piece of metal once per revolution vs. the 96' sensor that is exposed to a magnet trigger by a small window once per revolution. Apples to apples or apples to oranges? This may make I difference in whether the splice trick will work on later model Jeeps.
Last edited by Evenglass; 07-30-2014 at 08:51 PM.
#80