I would not run the turbo and alternator off the same hole... you don't wanna rob oil pressure from other parts in the motor theres one over by the pump as well I use two different spots

 

Thanks to Gaines I have a picture of the location of the Fuel Rack Screw.

 

Are you drilling your block tonight?, is that picture your engine?

 

No not me. Besides mine will be Chevrolet Orange. . It is a Picture from Gaines to show where the Fuel Rack limit Screw is. As I have read many times of people talking about the Fuel Rack Limit Screw but not one picture to show where the darn thing was.

But yes I will drill both sides of the block. One for the Dip Stick Passenger side and One for the Oil Return for the Turbo and Vacuum Pump if I can make the hole large enough to do so. I hope to use an 10 AN Pipe Thread one end into the block and AN on the other and run braided line to the Drain on the Turbo and one to the Vacuum Pump connected with a Y Connector. As I have this stuff laying around.

Or I might try some of the Newer Slip Fit stuff with the AN connections. I will not know for sure till I am there. I should be getting a good amount of parts early this next week to enable me to actually start on things.

 

you get to start, and I am stopped. I may get a tiny bit done, but I think I have to go to work next week.
Have fun take lots of pictures.

 

I am glad to see that the picture from Gaines I put up for the location of the Fuel Rack Screw worked out. For some odd reason it remained sideways and without the arrow I threw in there. I guess it takes time for Photobucket and the forum to shake hands to get things right.

The picture also shows Gaines Drilling the block for the passenger side Dip Stick tube if someone would wish to do so. As there is a location on both the passenger side and the drivers side of the block that can be drilled. I was going to throw a Red Arrow in there but I felt it would be hard to miss the foot long drill bit and a Drill.

By the way UsedKubotaMan had a great idea that he expressed to me today on the Oil Line Feeds for the Turbo and Vacuum pump. And that was to either Make or use a Log of which you could hard plumb from the engine to the Log and then have separate locations on the log to go to the Turbo and Vacuum pump individually and have a location on the Log for your Oil Pressure gauge and if one should wish a low oil pressure shut down switch.

 

Speaking of low oil pressure shutdown switch, I installed one on my truck and it payed off big time. Shortly after I had it running, the stock(old) oil pressure switch decieded to give it up and puke all 2gal on I5 at speed. Well it worked on saved the motor. I simply used an oil pressure switch from a 72 Vega (its a three prong sender, one for the light and the other two prongs for a switch to the fuel pump) and wired it to the ground wire on the start solonoid. When low oil pressure happends, it simply breaks the ground to the solonoid cutting fuel.

 

That's a really good idea, I think I might try that oil shut off switch cause I would hate to ruin the basically new super expensive turbo I have! That thing has been a money pit but at least I know its reliable

 

Ya, the reason why I installed the switch in the first place was the first turbo I used I wasn't too sure of the condition, and thought if the seal was bad it may be too late before I figured it out.

 

After Great thought. I would not mind the warning light but the automatic shut off worries me a bit. I would not wish for the engine to shut off at a dangerous moment. Or to say that at times I would rather sacrifice the engine than myself.

But I will have an Oil Pressure Gauge.

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Well today I got the Isuzu Alternator/Vacuum Pump Combo in and I have to say it is HEAVY. But has anyone looked at the AMPS to RPM ratio? It seems as if we may have to either use a larger diameter pulley on the main drive or find a smaller pulley for the Alternator/Vacuum Pump? But I guess it all depends on your demands for AMPS.

Before someone asks. At our RPM Ranges of between 1000-2500 the amps go from 10 - 45. Or a Breakdown would be at 1000 RPM 10 AMPS at 1600 RPM 25 AMPS and at 2500 RPM 45 AMPS but at all RPM Ranges the Volts are 13.5.