Ive just got my conversion up and running finally and put the first few hundred miles on it.

Its a 1989 chevy astro van, and I swapped in a 1980 mercedes 4cyl 616 diesel, and made a pair of custom manifolds to fit a mercedes 617 turbo charger. Additionally, I mated it using the 4x4labs kit to a T5 5-speed with gearing originally out of an S10.

So far its been a blast to actually drive, this is a property maintenance and rental work van I own, and im finally using it for my job.

I have a few questions on shutdown, and wiring the glowplugs. Im wondering if anyone has reverse engineered the glow plug relay wiring, im trying to set it up like stock mercedes.

On shutdown, ive heard the overboost relay is appropriate to use, but theres lots of mention, and not specific statements, so im gathering it self explanatory?

any advice appreciated!

 

It's been a while, but there was alot of those answered on my build, Cherokee with the OM617,and a few others. The shut-down solonoid is simple, and if you have the glow relay it is easy, but there were a few different styles with different wiring. Hope that helps, and you may need a smaller turbo.

 

The turbo seems to be working well so far, I need to install a boost gauge though and an EGT gauge. Ive put several hundred miles on it so far.

Great build! I read though your thread, though when it comes to glow and shutoff plumbing and wiring, limited info on those.

Ive been reading that the overboost valve can be direct wired to the Key on power source, and plumbed in and that will kill the motor properly. (right now ive been popping the clutch)

On the glow plugs im trying to wire it like stock MB, with ignition key in accessory, and then crank. I think ive got that worked out, just a few specific issues to research on when the plugs are supposed to shut off based on the coolant temp switch on the motor when cold.

Did you do push button glow plugs? or ignition activated?

 

The solonoid is wired to the key on that went to the coil, the glow is wired to the key on as well as the temp sender and it stays on at a lower voltage after start up depending on the temp. The reason why I said you may need a smaller turbo is that one less cylinder may not be enough to light that big turbo, you will have to feed more fuel to it to get up to speed than a smaller turbo, a T25 would be ok. That turbo you have is marginal on the 617.

 

Like FTE said.
A small solonide control valve (3 way) wired to the 'key on' and plumbed between the vacuum pump and the engine stop valve, (leave the third port open), this allows shut down with the key .
I've a om603 in my Chevy truck and used the complete wiring, timer and relay from the Mercedes car. If you do this you are left with 3 wires, one to the orange dash lamp, one to the 'key on' and one to the earth, plus the heavy duty 'live' going straight to the battery. Timing and temperature control is contained within the unit.