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2004 E350 6.0 NO ICP PRESSURE

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  #21  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:12 PM
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http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20046...lpumphpop.aspx
This is the style of pump you have, now you don't need this one, this is a high dollar billet replacement, it is a great pump but a little overkill for what you need. If you do need one Tousley Ford sells them for around $530 I believe. I would test the ipr with 2 leads of wire befor I spent money on a pump, but it is starting to leen that way.
 
  #22  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:21 PM
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thank you so you think its the actual pump its self i heard that when the pump goes it blows that screen right is this true? also can it be leaking somewhere around the pump? if the ipr was not work is it true i could not build any hpo? I also keep getting crank sensor open circuit this could not affect this could it? sorry for all the questions but can i get the pump out with out the intake now that u seen pic?
 
  #23  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:44 PM
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If pump was good and and you had HPoil leak it would normally start cold but be hard to start hot. Most of the time a blown pump can cause the screen to break, but the screen can break even if pump is good. You should be able to get the cover off without removal of the intake, you might have to remove the EGR cooler though, I would give it a try first. You need to be able to lift cover up about an inch to clear the pump, maybe a little more. you will have to remove or at least move those oil lines, there is a bolt that goes right between them that holds the lines to the housing, take that bolt out and twist the lines out, be careful of the Orings on them. pull the IPR out and give it a test to see if it moves, it is a solenoid so you should be able to feel and hear it pretty easy, just touch the 2 wires to the battery quick and it should work, just do a quick touch, don't "hold" it on there.

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Yes the turbo pedestal has to come out too, that is easy.

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Also keep in mind it the truck cut out while driving down the road it is most likely the HPOP, if it were the ICP or ipr it should have kept running, maybe not great but it should have kept running.
 

Last edited by bobfbigman; 04-29-2012 at 06:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #24  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:48 PM
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you mean touch the two pins where plugs in to 1 battery wire both to the same power wire and i should feel something?
 
  #25  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:53 PM
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NOT quite, one ground wire and one hot wire to th connector, the IPR doesn't use the body as a ground, it uses one of the wires as ground.
 
  #26  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:54 PM
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the truck got super quiet like it was not even a diesel and was shaking no response to throttle what so ever. It was so quiet it was pretending to run it would stall just by turning the wheel in park then it never started again. before all of this happened it started to take 3 key cycle cranks to get to start before it would start on the first try 4sec. also i have had the egr unplugged for a couple months prier to this because it ran better this way.

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i should be able to use my amp wires from my car stereo then ground and power?
 

Last edited by brandon1186; 04-29-2012 at 06:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #27  
Old 04-29-2012, 07:08 PM
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Just use a piece of wire from the red wire on IPR to battery positive, then from yellow-red wire to ground. if you have access to air compressor you can try to blow air through it then connect to battery and see if you can still blow air through it to make sure it is sealing. Sure sounds like the pump went though.
 
  #28  
Old 04-29-2012, 07:26 PM
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you were spot on the ipr works as it should that sucks for me. any precautions when i have the cover for hpop open? also anything else i should change while i am in there this truck has almost 400,000 kms thanks for all your help so far!!!
 
  #29  
Old 04-29-2012, 07:45 PM
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I would replace the branch connection tube, it attaches to pump and to the branch tube that feeds the uppipes for the heads, it has a snap to connect fitting that can leak a little over time and also you will be moving it that can hurt it eveen more so once you are in there it only makes sense to change it.
As far as taking precautions just use air to blow the top of the motor off to make sure there is no debri that could fall in there, if its real greasy use some carb clean to clean the area off, you want to get it as clean as you can before you take cover off. Have some rags handy so you can place them over the area just in case ou drop something while working, just make sure they are out before everything is buttoned up/you would be supprised how often this happens.
Click on images on your browser and type in, 6.0 hpop, you have the aluminum one that looks like a cylinder, that way you will know what it is going to look like.

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when you replace it just fill it up with oil the best you can before you put the cover on, it will take a while cranking to get all the air out so it will start, have your batterys on a charger to help out, it will take some driving to get rest of air out and until then it might sound a little rough, usually 40 miles should have it straightened out.
 

Last edited by bobfbigman; 04-29-2012 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #30  
Old 04-29-2012, 08:08 PM
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thank you very i will keep this thread updated as i get more progress how long would you say it will take to do what you said 3-4hrs? like this pic?

http://performancemachinemfg.com/images/F30028780.jpg
 

Last edited by brandon1186; 04-29-2012 at 08:13 PM.


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