Ok, so I replaced the rear shoes and hardware as well as upgrading to the GM cylinders, replaced front rotors & pads. I put the truck in 4WD like I read somewhere before startin on the front. twisted off one of the brake bleeders on front caliper, and couldn't get anything to come out of the other front caliper, when i attempted to bleed them. Needless to say the front calipers didn't get bled.

Not sure if I'll be able to get the threads out of the caliper to replace the bleeder, or if I should just replace the entire caliper...Help, suggestions...

Pedal is spongy!!!

I got the rear drums bled just fine...so now what I have is ABS light it on, BRAKE light is on and 4WD light is on.

I tried several different ways to put it in and out of 4WD and I and prudy sure it's in 2WD but the light is staying on.

The Haynes manual says to bleed the Master Cylinder then the RWAL (anti lock valve) then procede to the rear wheel passenger side and then drivers and so on. So how do you bleed the Master Cylinder and RWAL valve?

I haven' t had the codes read yet, had to come to work and it won't be until tomorrow until i can get that done. Darn JOBS interferring with my work!

 

 

You shouldn't need to bleed the master or the RWAL unless you've replaced them or the lines going to/from them.

Personally, I can get calipers for like $25 bucks each. It's not worth the time to to try and did that bleeder out. Just replace them.

I would start with gravity bleeding the system. Remove your MC cap, top off the fluid, leave the cap off and crack all the bleeders.

Let them gravity bleed for about 15-20 minutes. Then, in the order of RR, LR, RF, LF, bleed out the brakes.

I prefer pushing the pedal down once and bleeding as opposed to pumping it several times and then bleeding.

 

I think I'm going to get new calipers, they seem fairly cheap and I'll be able to open the bleeders.

But the 4wd light being stuck on it a little concerning. I'll disconnect the batteries tonight and let it sit until I can drive it into autozone tomorrow and get a reading onthe codes. Geez, hope I didn't hose something really friggin expensive. I also installed a HellBent leveling kit while I was in there...man, I don't want to do that again..ever. them coil spring's are a b*tch...even with spring compressors.

 

Mine used to stick sometimes until I drove it a bit. Maybe that's your deal too. Are you sure that all the vacuum lines are connected properly? It's maybe possible that you had it in 4x and got a line pulled off and now it's somehow sticking in there.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

ok, vaccum lines for teh 4wd???? sorry in advance for my ignorance, where would one look for said vaccum lines??? If one was to look.

 

Yeah you have vacuum lines running down to the right side of your front axle to an actuator. That actuator slides a sleeve inside the axle to engage 4x. I had mine on a hoist at the old job and they came off when I put it in the air. Always happened to my Jeep too.

 

Cool beans, i will check that tonight. I fount a pic on autozone website..

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AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year

 

keep us updated

 

Don't forget the two Vac lines on the transfer case also. Should be on the front of it.