Truck died. Won't start.
#1
11-12-2018, 10:36 AM
Truck died. Won't start.2006 6.0 Powerstroke
This is the second time this has happened.
1 month ago. Did an oil change .Truck started and ran fine. Next day drove about 5 miles .Went to pass car and all was ok. Then took a turn. Could feel lack of power , then got to stop sign and stalled . Would not start again .Was reading code 263.
Shop replaced fuel filter and oem Ford oil filter as we thought maybe I messed up using an aftermarket oil filter . Truck was scanned and everything perfect . Started right up .
Has been good for 5000 more miles .Hauling trailers and what not .
Last night went out and it ran fine . Stopped and shut it off and came back out. Started fine .had to merge fast into traffic and once again loss of power till it came to a stop and died . Checked code's and once again same code .263 . Got it towed home . Tried cycling it 5 times and then starting it. No luck .Oh I did clear the code both times .
Then checked code's again and now code 2291. The Icm one is showing.
Not sure this just popped up because of it being cranked and no start or this is showing for a reason .
Truck doesn't even fire a bit .
Truck has always run smoothly. Only time it was a little rough was the two times this has happened .
I'd like some input before I have it towed and get some huge bill .
Thanks.
1 month ago. Did an oil change .Truck started and ran fine. Next day drove about 5 miles .Went to pass car and all was ok. Then took a turn. Could feel lack of power , then got to stop sign and stalled . Would not start again .Was reading code 263.
Shop replaced fuel filter and oem Ford oil filter as we thought maybe I messed up using an aftermarket oil filter . Truck was scanned and everything perfect . Started right up .
Has been good for 5000 more miles .Hauling trailers and what not .
Last night went out and it ran fine . Stopped and shut it off and came back out. Started fine .had to merge fast into traffic and once again loss of power till it came to a stop and died . Checked code's and once again same code .263 . Got it towed home . Tried cycling it 5 times and then starting it. No luck .Oh I did clear the code both times .
Then checked code's again and now code 2291. The Icm one is showing.
Not sure this just popped up because of it being cranked and no start or this is showing for a reason .
Truck doesn't even fire a bit .
Truck has always run smoothly. Only time it was a little rough was the two times this has happened .
I'd like some input before I have it towed and get some huge bill .
Thanks.
Last edited by Bluenote; 11-12-2018 at 10:51 AM.
#3
11-12-2018, 03:39 PM
Update
Ok I went under hood .checked the wires , wiggled them . All the ones on passenger side. Got in. And it started . Ran roigh for a bit .Then idled fine. Let it run for 15 minutes to warm up . Got baxk in and revved it ip a few times .Not like a maniac .But wanted to see. Revved up 4 times and on the 4th it's slowly died and won't start again .is showing no trouble codes either now.
Went under hood . Did the same thing . Tried it again . Still won't fire .
Went under good and unplugged the sensor . Tried this trick. This time it turned over alot different but still would not fire .
So plugged it back in said fck it till I get some advice.
Thanks
Went under hood . Did the same thing . Tried it again . Still won't fire .
Went under good and unplugged the sensor . Tried this trick. This time it turned over alot different but still would not fire .
So plugged it back in said fck it till I get some advice.
Thanks
#5
11-12-2018, 04:32 PM
Year model
Obviously Ford
No mods except the tune for towing .
Has had the ARP head stids done.
Has had the EGR done.
has
Has had the oil cooler done.
So all updates were done.
#6
11-12-2018, 08:25 PM
Diesel Bomber
Well, I used to have on of those.......ugh! Very similar symptoms i went through in the time I had it. Don't rule out the CPS. I replaced the CPS on mine and it ran great after that........ for about a year and a half. Then it happened again, and again I replaced the CPS. Ran great until I traded it in for my current CTD, a year later. I literally had to carry a spare CPS at all times. Give 'er a try.
#7
11-29-2018, 04:35 AM
Do you have access to a scanner or a Bluetooth/WiFi to obd2 dongle?
Your first code is a cylinder contribution code. Usually an indicator of an injector that is not performing as desired. However other things can cause this. But a failing injector is most common.
Your our second code is icp lower than desired during cranking. Various things can cause this.
Considering your our symptoms I would be looking for issues in the following components and systems-high pressure oil leak, failing HPOP, low pressure oil pump, ICP sensor, IPR valve, and a few others. But those are the first things I’d look over.
First things first, check your oil level.
You mentioned changing oil filters. Do you have a stock oil filter cap on the truck? Stick with a stock cap and a stock sized “snap in” filter. If you remove the filter after sitting overnight, the filter should still be wet. If it is dry then you have an oil drain back issue.
To check for low pressure oil pump flow-remove the oil filter and cap. Leave them off. Take the key out of the ignition and leave the truck in park (neutral if a manual and parking brake set). On the passenger inner fender there is a barrel connector that can be disconnected for manual activation of the starter (photos available via google). Take the end of the barrel connector and press it to the positive battery post. Crank the engine and watch to see if the oil filter housing fills with oil. Cease cranking. Then wait to see if it drains back out. If no oil fills the housing, you have a low pressure oil system problem. If it does fill and then drain back, you have oil flow. But it is not a guarantee of proper pressure. However, most trucks will still fire up and idle if they have enough flow to fill the housing.
After that hat you need to determine the health of the high pressure system. It’s preferred to look at various sensor values. There are also physical tests. Such as an “air test”.
If if you have access to a scanner then monitor the following PIDs
ICP volts(Injection control pressure)
ICP pressure
IPR percentage(Injection pressure regulator)
FICM voltage(Fuel injection control module)
FICM sync
Cam/Crank sync
Baro(Barometric pressure)
MAP(Manifolt absolute pressure)
EBP(Exhaust back pressure)
VGT duty cycle(Turbo vane position)
RPM
ECT(Engine Coolant Temp)
EOT(Engine Oil Temp)
Not all of these are required to determine a start issue. But they are helpful to look at the overall health picture of the truck.
If you have a scanner to monitor with turn the key to the run position. This is known as KOEO (key on engine off).
Write down own the following values during KOEO.
ICP volts
ICP pressure
IPR percentage
FICM Volts
Baro
MAP
EBP
Then reply here with the data.
If if you want to attempt to start the truck before you come back, then record the min and max values during cranking for all the PIDs in the first list.
Do do the same at idle if the truck does start.
Your first code is a cylinder contribution code. Usually an indicator of an injector that is not performing as desired. However other things can cause this. But a failing injector is most common.
Your our second code is icp lower than desired during cranking. Various things can cause this.
Considering your our symptoms I would be looking for issues in the following components and systems-high pressure oil leak, failing HPOP, low pressure oil pump, ICP sensor, IPR valve, and a few others. But those are the first things I’d look over.
First things first, check your oil level.
You mentioned changing oil filters. Do you have a stock oil filter cap on the truck? Stick with a stock cap and a stock sized “snap in” filter. If you remove the filter after sitting overnight, the filter should still be wet. If it is dry then you have an oil drain back issue.
To check for low pressure oil pump flow-remove the oil filter and cap. Leave them off. Take the key out of the ignition and leave the truck in park (neutral if a manual and parking brake set). On the passenger inner fender there is a barrel connector that can be disconnected for manual activation of the starter (photos available via google). Take the end of the barrel connector and press it to the positive battery post. Crank the engine and watch to see if the oil filter housing fills with oil. Cease cranking. Then wait to see if it drains back out. If no oil fills the housing, you have a low pressure oil system problem. If it does fill and then drain back, you have oil flow. But it is not a guarantee of proper pressure. However, most trucks will still fire up and idle if they have enough flow to fill the housing.
After that hat you need to determine the health of the high pressure system. It’s preferred to look at various sensor values. There are also physical tests. Such as an “air test”.
If if you have access to a scanner then monitor the following PIDs
ICP volts(Injection control pressure)
ICP pressure
IPR percentage(Injection pressure regulator)
FICM voltage(Fuel injection control module)
FICM sync
Cam/Crank sync
Baro(Barometric pressure)
MAP(Manifolt absolute pressure)
EBP(Exhaust back pressure)
VGT duty cycle(Turbo vane position)
RPM
ECT(Engine Coolant Temp)
EOT(Engine Oil Temp)
Not all of these are required to determine a start issue. But they are helpful to look at the overall health picture of the truck.
If you have a scanner to monitor with turn the key to the run position. This is known as KOEO (key on engine off).
Write down own the following values during KOEO.
ICP volts
ICP pressure
IPR percentage
FICM Volts
Baro
MAP
EBP
Then reply here with the data.
If if you want to attempt to start the truck before you come back, then record the min and max values during cranking for all the PIDs in the first list.
Do do the same at idle if the truck does start.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
better_off_witha_diesel12
24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02
0
08-05-2014 12:14 AM
