No I don't have a tuner for it about to get one. yeah this code stays on, well its keeps my check engine light on. But the weird thing is my temp gauge works fine.

 

Get gauges man before the lift pump gets weak and kills the pump!! You must have a raptor or fass pump I have never heard of a stock lift pump with that pressure.
Serious get some gauges!! especially if your putting in hot injectors or you will be sorry.

 

If your saying his fuel pressure is low, which compared to most vehicles out there, looks to low but it's where I should be, here's a quote of another forum:


Found this on Turbo diesel register.
There is a write up on what is the proper psi for the VP44. and 5 is the lowest.

Turbo Diesel Register Tech: Fuel Transfer Pumps Revisited

I HATE TO DO THIS - FUEL TRANSFER PUMPS REVISITED
(or The Final Answer - Perfect Transfer Pump Article)
As the deadline for Issue 56 was fast approaching, I called TDR writer Jim Anderson. Jim is the point guy for miscellaneous e-mail and phone inquiries that come into the TDR. I asked, “Hey Jim, what’s on the minds of those that you are corresponding with?” His response, “It seems that problems with the Third Generation trucks vary. There is not a common complaint that needs to be addressed.” This is good news for the Third Generation crowd.

Jim continued, “However, with the used truck purchase of ’98.5-'02 vehicles the education about fuel transfer pumps is an endless task.” I responded, “Ouch, I know what you mean. Perhaps I should emulate the country music singer David Allen Coe’s efforts to write the perfect country music song by writing the perfect transfer pump article.” Jim responded, “Keep it simple, try the catch phrase from the Millionaire show ‘Is that your final answer?’”

Thus, I present the final-answer, perfect transfer pump article. While the article focuses on the '98.5-'02 owners, this collection of TDR oldies also has tips for '94-'98 12-valve owners and '03-'07 HPCR owners. The information was pulled from our Issue 32, 48, and 50 magazines. Updates have been added to reflect the latest part number information.

Then, to add a final crescendo to the article, I’ll share with you a story that will be of interest to 300,000+ owners of '03 and '04.5 HPCR owners.

Below is an outline of the topics that will be covered.
• ’98.5-’02 trucks, correct fuel pressure
• ‘94-’98 12-valve, fuel transfer pump replacement
• ‘98.5-’02 24-valve, fuel transfer pump replacement
• Fuel pressure gauges and opinions
• ‘98.5-’02 24-valve, fuel transfer pump relocation kit
• ‘98.5-’02 24-valve, what to do
• ‘03-’04.5 HPCR, what to do
• ‘05 to current HPCR, what to do

Here we go…

CORRECT FUEL PRESSURE— ‘98.5-’02 TRUCKS

by Robert Patton and Jim Anderson
In May of 2001 there was a great deal of concern about fuel transfer pump delivery pressures. The problem first surfaced as a result of a production batch of inadequate transfer pumps and the resulting product recall. Hand-in-hand with the recall was the increasing number of warranty claims. (When the article was written the early '98.5 engines were 2.5 years old.) The problems were aggravated by those that hot-rod their trucks as well as purchase fuel system accessories that add restriction to the system. The bottom line is that the 24-valve’s Bosch VP44 electronic fuel delivery pump needs to see at least 5-6psi of pressure from the fuel transfer pump. Less than 5-6psi (more is better) and there is a danger of “overheating” the VP44 pump for it uses fuel to cool and lubricate its internal parts.


In the photo, note that the Editor’s truck (a '99 model) is outfitted
with two gauges—one is a mechanical, liquid-filled gauge
and the other is a Westach electrical gauge with a pressure
sending-unit mounted to the filter head assembly.

In order to install a gauge, the ’98 and ’99 24-valve engines have a filter head with easily accessible 1/8 NPT fittings. On the 2000 and up trucks the service design team at Cummins was mindful of the need to test the fuel transfer pump’s delivery pressure. Thus, your truck is equipped with a “banjo adapter with a Schrader valve assembly.” Say what? For clarification let’s look at a photo and a description.


On the inside, the part with the rifled opening attaches the fuel line to the fuel pump. On the outside, the Schrader valve (think A/C valve or, better yet, a tire valve) has a press-for-pressure needle. Here is the catch, you can take the pressure needle out of the Schrader valve.

What Pressure Should I See?

In order to install a gauge, the ’98 and ’99 24-valve engines have a filter head with easily accessible 1/8 NPT fittings. On the 2000 and up trucks the service design team at Cummins was mindful of the need to test the fuel transfer pump’s delivery pressure. Thus, your truck is equipped with a “banjo adapter with a Schrader valve assembly.” Say what? For clarification let’s look at a photo and a description.

The readings that I am seeing on the gauge:

13-14 psi at idle
12 psi @ 2000 rpm – no load
11 psi @ 3000 rpm – no load
10 psi @ 3500 rpm – no load
10 psi @ various rpm – 10 psi boost
8 psi @ various rpm – 20 psi boost
3 psi @ various rpm – 30 psi boost*

*From the readings at idle and at various rpm with a load (and a resulting boost reading that is at stock truck/20 psi or below levels), the gauge checks out okay. As I push the performance envelope with my hot-rodded engine (i.e. the 30 psi boost reading), the fuel pump is marginal.

Does the fuel pump meet the stock specifications? Yes. Is it ideal for my truck’s hot-rodded performance? Good question. In discussions with other hot-rod owners I find that the old adage, “I am my own warranty station” once again proves correct. As you increase the output power of the engine from its design, the hotrodder has to look at upgrading other components. Discussions with other owners have uncovered various solutions to the low pressure at high performance blues: drilled out banjo bolts for better fuel flow, bigger fuel lines, different fuel pumps, different pump locations. The saga will continue.

This is not a write up from me. This comes from the website. Just thought I put it up here.

 

Here's another quote I found from the mopar1973man web:
Link:P0217-DECREASED ENGINE PERFORMANCE DUE TO ENGINE OVERHEAT CONDITION - Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins Articles


P0217-DECREASED ENGINE PERFORMANCE DUE TO ENGINE OVERHEAT CONDITION
POSSIBLE CAUSES

ECT SENSOR
OTHER DTC'S
MECHANICAL FAILURE
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

NOTE: Refer to VERIFICATION TESTS for appropriate verification test procedures.

With the DRBIII®, read DTCs. Are other Cooling system DTCs present?
Yes --> Trouble shoot the other DTCs first
No --> Go To 2
Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature. Use a temperature probe and measure the engine temperature near the ECT Sensor. With the DRBIII®, read the Engine Temperature. Compare the temperature probe reading with the DRBIII® reading. Are the readings within 10°F of each other?
Yes --> Repair the cause of mechanical failure
No --> Replace the coolant temp sensor.

 

So replacing the ect sensor maybe the way to go (shouldnt cost much) but make sure too to check the wiring from the sensor/sender to the pcm.

 

Okay thank you!!

 

Benbri he doesn't know what his fuel pressure is. he only knows it was tested once who knows when. I am saying get some gauges. You guys are hard headed

 

For crying out loud, calm down, it's just a mis-understanding, I looked back on the discussion and now I see the pump was bench tested, that I didn't see clearly. Beside, you are right, it is a good idea to get gauges. But here, we re not talking about fuel pressure as being the issue. It wouldn't be smoking if there was no or low fuel pressure.

 

No Jet fuel I have a fuel gauge that is just a quick hook up to the top of the fuel filter. I no what my pressure is I tested it the other day.

 

And check the intake grid heater to make it is getting power. Is the voltage gauge dropping when you first start it? headlights dimming at night? Of course the coolant temp sensor might not be allowing to come on if the code is still set.