01 ram 2500. I replaced the tappet cover gasket. To do this I had to remove the injector pump (unplugged) and the ecm (left plugged in). Put it back together, Was SURE of the key placement in the pump gear. I bled the filter to the injector pump (key on, hit start). I started the truck. It ran bad for awhile, I bled the injector lines at the head and it cleaned up. It starts and sounds great at idle but is like having a vw bug motor under the hood when I try it on the road. What the heck did I do? I've looked at all the plugins and am sure I got them all. I relearned the accelerator position sensor. I have not re-checked the key way. I guess that's my next step- but I'm sure it is right. I didn't move the crank nor the pump while everything was apart. Please help!
It doesn't leak oil any more but it sure ran good before I took it down. Gary (and Thanks!)

P.S. How can I follow any answers on this site? I know less about forums than Diesels.

 

Did you remove the intake elbow? Are you boost hose clamps tight?

 

yes, the elbow came off. The clamps are for sure tight. Thanks for helping. I'm sure at a lose. I just bought this truck and like it a lot. Wish I hadn't broke it.
There are no codes.
One thing is I have an OBD scandisk reader plugged in and it wouldn't work at first fire up. The fuse to the cig lighter had blown. Don't know how I did this with the batteries (-) disconnected.

 

usually the cig fuse pops because of people pluggin in phone chargers and other accessories in that port. Are the intake heater gaskets at the elbow damaged or not sealing?

 

I didn't replace the heater gaskets. They were clean and looked real good. I don't think I have an intake leak but I'll ck again.

The obd scandisk worked fine before I did this job but not after. The power that this gauge uses in the obd plug-in comes from this cig fuse. At least as soon as I replaced the fuse, the scandisk lite up.
Thanks again.

 

you didint break any wires to the pump or anything like that did you?

 

The bottom mount bolt of the ecm was digging in the wiring harness just 4 inches below the plug that goes into the ecm. I bent the strap bracket that holds that harness for a little clearance. This truck has 250K miles and maybe the wires were too brittle to rearrange like that. I'll have to run the wires from ecm to pump???
I drove the truck today with the idea MillerBoyz gave me about loss of boost and that is what it seems like it runs like - just no power. I'll put a pressure gauge on it also. Thanks for your help.

 

All it takes is one wire to fray, but do what miller boy said also.
Keep it Simple.

 

I'll ck all these things out but I'm busy until the week end. Thanks for your help. I'll fix it and I'll report the fix (my screw up!).

 

??'s. I cked the lift pump at the schrader valve on the injector pump and found 10#. not running. I had almost that at idle and at full throttle I went down to 2 lbs. I read that this is low and know I'll have to address this but my truck ran fine before I pulled the injector pump and it must have had the same pressures from the lp. Is it possible that this low pressure could be the problem?

Also, is it possible that the pump gear turned a tooth while I was jiggling the injector pump back in it?

Thanks again.