1974 CJ5/ Isuzu 4FB1 Diesel
#1
04-23-2011, 10:23 AM
1974 CJ5/ Isuzu 4FB1 Diesel
Hi everyone.
New to the site. Lots to learn about my new project.
My current project build is a first to me in almost all ways. This is my first 4x4, and is the first diesel I have ever owned personally. My Jeep is a 1974 CJ5, bought without a motor or trans. I fell in <3 with Jeeps when I tried (very unsuccessfully) to sell them at a dealership. Guess I just don't have that kind of personality.
The 1.8L 4FB1 I found on CL, out of a Chevette, with 55,000 original miles. Auto trans was left behind, as of no interest to me whatsoever. Got it cheaper, too. I chose to buy this motor because of the price, weight, and apparent reliability. I have been meditating on the concept for a year, so when I saw the 1.8L, I did some fast research, and I jumped. Parts seem to be a slight concern, but are available, if one knows what to look for. But the tiny size and proven reliability should more than compensate. Actually just spoke with a guy who has plenty of spare motors just a few hours away...
And for those out of the loop, these weigh @ 386lbs FULLY DRESSED, and have ALL the features of a high end boosted diesel. Piston squirters, beefy webbing, forged steel rods and crank, ect...And according to several Master Isuzu Techs, can handle 15+ PSI boost in stock configuration.
Goals of the project are:
1) Mechanical injection exclusively. NO electronics on running motor. I don't care if it hurts economy slightly. I have my very good reasons for this, and is the only goal NOT optional.
2) Cheap Fuel The ability to dump nearly any kind of waste/junk oil into the tank. Constructive input welcome here, but I have personally seen everything from used soybean oil, used motor oil, to old auto trans fluid used in various diesels (including common rail). No strange additives, mixing, ect. Works great, cheap, and easy. I have even seen mid 90's Ford common rails burning just about anything. My personal thoughts are if the "junk"(filtered to 1 micron) is cut with diesel #2, you would have no real concern. Diesel #2 has a much higher sulfur content, which is very slippery...And #2 is STREET LEGAL in a diesel older than mid or late 90's(correct me if I'm wrong for OH at least). Just read the placard on a diesel #1 pump the other day. It said RECOMMENDED for older than late 90's...
3) Power Perhaps @ double or triple factory TQ, which is possible.
4) Reliability
5) Simplicity
6) Cost (as in, as little as possible), but with a huge nod towards safety and reliability.
7) Fuel economy I know a 4x4 brick is not efficient, but if I can bag 20-30 MPG on the highway I'd be happy. And no I don't want huge knobby mudder/swamper(whatever) tires, or my Jeep jacked a mile high so a good sneeze would tip it over...
I noticed a Isuzu P'up Truck at another site, that is running a M90. Worked very nice, but he took it back off because of the weak Isuzu P'up 5 spd. It's of particular interest to me as the gentleman I bought my 1.8l diesel from threw an M90 in, along with a inter-cooler(i believe from a Saab or a Peugeot). It reminds me of a modern radiator, with plastic tanks on either side. I'll have this tested to 15 PSI, and use it for now until I buy a upgrade. He even supposedly used Cummins 4BT boost timing components installed in the Isuzu "altitude compensator". Input very welcome here, as I'm a bit of a newb concerning Cummins parts...
However in the mean time I am tossing the idea @ of using it, as it is on hand, free and ready to roll(as far as the unit itself goes). Versus trying to buy/ship a turbo(or two) that probably wouldn't be quite right anyways. I noticed the T25's are too big really, and the T15's seem small. To use the turbine side of a T15, and compressor from T25, well, there's 2 used turbos I gotta buy, still have to have it balanced, rebuild the unit. Then fab oil line, return...
So anyways, very rough calculations reveal @ 1 to .95 (appx) drive would yield @ 12- 15psi at 6,000 RPM's. The blower would live dang near forever. My biggest concern is parasitic losses @ cruise, and at redline. Tiny motor can't afford much HP to spare...I know TECHNICALLY the M90 is way too big. But it's THERE and READY(and FREE). But decent economy is also a factor, but then it WOULD be uber reliable... And I could wire a A/C clutch to "shut off/turn on" the blower, increasing cruise MPG significantly.
All the project goals are variable to a point. If I'm getting 150 Ft Lbs TQ., I could stand to lose a few MPG.
Any thoughts? Could use input as far as a trans and transfer case. I found a uber rare Isuzu bell housing that bolts between my motor and a T5... And it's on it's way.
New to the site. Lots to learn about my new project.
My current project build is a first to me in almost all ways. This is my first 4x4, and is the first diesel I have ever owned personally. My Jeep is a 1974 CJ5, bought without a motor or trans. I fell in <3 with Jeeps when I tried (very unsuccessfully) to sell them at a dealership. Guess I just don't have that kind of personality.
The 1.8L 4FB1 I found on CL, out of a Chevette, with 55,000 original miles. Auto trans was left behind, as of no interest to me whatsoever. Got it cheaper, too. I chose to buy this motor because of the price, weight, and apparent reliability. I have been meditating on the concept for a year, so when I saw the 1.8L, I did some fast research, and I jumped. Parts seem to be a slight concern, but are available, if one knows what to look for. But the tiny size and proven reliability should more than compensate. Actually just spoke with a guy who has plenty of spare motors just a few hours away...And for those out of the loop, these weigh @ 386lbs FULLY DRESSED, and have ALL the features of a high end boosted diesel. Piston squirters, beefy webbing, forged steel rods and crank, ect...And according to several Master Isuzu Techs, can handle 15+ PSI boost in stock configuration.
Goals of the project are:
1) Mechanical injection exclusively. NO electronics on running motor. I don't care if it hurts economy slightly. I have my very good reasons for this, and is the only goal NOT optional.
2) Cheap Fuel The ability to dump nearly any kind of waste/junk oil into the tank. Constructive input welcome here, but I have personally seen everything from used soybean oil, used motor oil, to old auto trans fluid used in various diesels (including common rail). No strange additives, mixing, ect. Works great, cheap, and easy. I have even seen mid 90's Ford common rails burning just about anything. My personal thoughts are if the "junk"(filtered to 1 micron) is cut with diesel #2, you would have no real concern. Diesel #2 has a much higher sulfur content, which is very slippery...And #2 is STREET LEGAL in a diesel older than mid or late 90's(correct me if I'm wrong for OH at least). Just read the placard on a diesel #1 pump the other day. It said RECOMMENDED for older than late 90's...
3) Power Perhaps @ double or triple factory TQ, which is possible.
4) Reliability
5) Simplicity
6) Cost (as in, as little as possible), but with a huge nod towards safety and reliability.
7) Fuel economy I know a 4x4 brick is not efficient, but if I can bag 20-30 MPG on the highway I'd be happy. And no I don't want huge knobby mudder/swamper(whatever) tires, or my Jeep jacked a mile high so a good sneeze would tip it over...
I noticed a Isuzu P'up Truck at another site, that is running a M90. Worked very nice, but he took it back off because of the weak Isuzu P'up 5 spd. It's of particular interest to me as the gentleman I bought my 1.8l diesel from threw an M90 in, along with a inter-cooler(i believe from a Saab or a Peugeot). It reminds me of a modern radiator, with plastic tanks on either side. I'll have this tested to 15 PSI, and use it for now until I buy a upgrade. He even supposedly used Cummins 4BT boost timing components installed in the Isuzu "altitude compensator". Input very welcome here, as I'm a bit of a newb concerning Cummins parts...
However in the mean time I am tossing the idea @ of using it, as it is on hand, free and ready to roll(as far as the unit itself goes). Versus trying to buy/ship a turbo(or two) that probably wouldn't be quite right anyways. I noticed the T25's are too big really, and the T15's seem small. To use the turbine side of a T15, and compressor from T25, well, there's 2 used turbos I gotta buy, still have to have it balanced, rebuild the unit. Then fab oil line, return...
So anyways, very rough calculations reveal @ 1 to .95 (appx) drive would yield @ 12- 15psi at 6,000 RPM's. The blower would live dang near forever. My biggest concern is parasitic losses @ cruise, and at redline. Tiny motor can't afford much HP to spare...I know TECHNICALLY the M90 is way too big. But it's THERE and READY(and FREE). But decent economy is also a factor, but then it WOULD be uber reliable... And I could wire a A/C clutch to "shut off/turn on" the blower, increasing cruise MPG significantly.
All the project goals are variable to a point. If I'm getting 150 Ft Lbs TQ., I could stand to lose a few MPG.
Any thoughts? Could use input as far as a trans and transfer case. I found a uber rare Isuzu bell housing that bolts between my motor and a T5... And it's on it's way.
Last edited by DieslJeep; 04-23-2011 at 10:42 AM.
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