2004 Cummins 5.9 hard start
#1
2004 Cummins 5.9 hard start
I have a 2004 5.9 cummins. Needs to be plugged in to start. its all original, changed the lift pump, both batteries and intake heater seloinds. runs great after its started. I live in eastern Canada. was thinking of putting on an ether kit and bypass the intake heater. had it checked and no codes showed up. Please help if you can.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
The following 2 users liked this post by Dustindavisusmc:
97cummins (11-10-2013),
dieseldarlin (11-03-2013)
#3
I have a 2004 5.9 cummins. Needs to be plugged in to start. its all original, changed the lift pump, both batteries and intake heater seloinds. runs great after its started. I live in eastern Canada. was thinking of putting on an ether kit and bypass the intake heater. had it checked and no codes showed up. Please help if you can.
Thanks
Thanks
#4
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160.000 miles. It cranks over fine just will not fire, if I plug it in for 10 min it fires fine and runs great. Its like I am not getting fuel.
thanks
Last edited by Scott j; 11-04-2013 at 06:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#5
you may not be getting fuel, when was the last time you had a set of injectors done?
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in a common rail set up, your pump will need to produce about 23,000 psi at max and needs about 6k psi to even start.... if your injectors are allowing fuel to run by them, no good... there is a check ball in the injector that keeps fuel from returning to the side of the filter housing and back to the tank... if those little check ***** or springs are worn out then it is difficult to maintain pressure in your rail... there are a couple of procedures that you can do from home, but need a hand full of specialty fittings.... if you search, "injector return test" some of the other guys have posted tools and specs on how to run this test
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
in a common rail set up, your pump will need to produce about 23,000 psi at max and needs about 6k psi to even start.... if your injectors are allowing fuel to run by them, no good... there is a check ball in the injector that keeps fuel from returning to the side of the filter housing and back to the tank... if those little check ***** or springs are worn out then it is difficult to maintain pressure in your rail... there are a couple of procedures that you can do from home, but need a hand full of specialty fittings.... if you search, "injector return test" some of the other guys have posted tools and specs on how to run this test
Last edited by Dustindavisusmc; 11-04-2013 at 08:34 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#6
you may not be getting fuel, when was the last time you had a set of injectors done?
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
in a common rail set up, your pump will need to produce about 23,000 psi at max and needs about 6k psi to even start.... if your injectors are allowing fuel to run by them, no good... there is a check ball in the injector that keeps fuel from returning to the side of the filter housing and back to the tank... if those little check ***** or springs are worn out then it is difficult to maintain pressure in your rail... there are a couple of procedures that you can do from home, but need a hand full of specialty fittings.... if you search, "injector return test" some of the other guys have posted tools and specs on how to run this test
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
in a common rail set up, your pump will need to produce about 23,000 psi at max and needs about 6k psi to even start.... if your injectors are allowing fuel to run by them, no good... there is a check ball in the injector that keeps fuel from returning to the side of the filter housing and back to the tank... if those little check ***** or springs are worn out then it is difficult to maintain pressure in your rail... there are a couple of procedures that you can do from home, but need a hand full of specialty fittings.... if you search, "injector return test" some of the other guys have posted tools and specs on how to run this test
#7
dont be afraid to replace the injectors yourself... not all that complicated... with a little know-how and some help from the guys here you can do it... some guys get luck and have injectors that last 200k +, but I have seen and do see alot at the shop that need injectors at the 100k to 130k.... couple of ideas though 1. dont buy junk (bosch is the only stock way to go) 2. dont scab injectors together (meaning if you find one or two with a high return rate replace them all) 3. have confidence in your ability and ask lots of questions
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